909 
.K74 






BEFORE STARTING UPON A JOURNEY ALL, 
PROPERTY SHOULD BE SAFELY INSURED. 



HANOVER 

Fire Insurance Company, 

NO. 181 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



Cash C apital, 
Reserve 
Reserve 
Net Sur 



U. S. Be 
Bonds* a 
pro 
Yoi 
Cash in 
Cash in t 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



D^o<$ -.-JT 



$LP£o.ooo.oo« 
^41.16 

&5S-57 
p44-5<> 



<\ 



141,29. 



Shelf ,K 7 4 „' 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



a'\jx -tigCiiLO, III Cuuiacr ui xi aucj- 

mission, and uncollected Office Premi- 
ums, 

Loans on Call, amply secured, 

State and City Bonds, .... 

Railroad First Mortgage Bonds, 

Railroad Stock, 

Bank and Trust Company's Stocks, - - 
Accrued Interest, - 



967.50. 



7 50.0O' 
567.60 



104,020.23 
12,675.00 
114,030.00 
.457,112.50. 
14,000.00. 
51,450.00 
11,168.46 

$2,565,141.29, 



BENJAMIN S. WALCOTT, President. 
I. Remsen Lane, Charles L. Roe, 

Vice-Pres't & Sec'y. Ass't Sec'y.. 




Jtapj^ D OUBLE ENDOWMEN T. 

jilt i - -* M A NEW POLICY ^*- 
^■ r ;(>M] THE WASHINGTON 

# Life Insura nce Company of New Tort 

W. A. BREWER, Jr., President. 
A Double Endowment is a 20-year Endowment As- 
surance Policy, which will yield to . the holder of it at 
maturity DOUBLE THE AMOUNT insured in the event of 
death, and is the best form of Endowment ever offered to 
those who are more desirous of receiving a large sum for 
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A REMARKABLE FEATURE of this plan is that the 
premium for the pure Endowment, plus the term rate for 
half the amount at risk, is substantially the same at any 
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all persons who can pass a satisfactory medical examination 
at THE SAME RATE for every $1,000 — payable at the end 
of 20 years — or $500 if death occur within that period. 



AGES. 


Annual. 


Semi-Annual. 


Quarterly. 


20 to 55 


$40.00 


$20.80 


$10.60 



A DOUBLE ENDOWMENT IS FAR BETTER THAN 
A TONTINE POLICY. 

1st. — It is a definite contract — so much if you die, twice 
as much if you live 20 years. 

NO TONTINE Policy guarantees anything beyond the 
face of the Policy, if you live 10, 15, or 20 years. 

2d. — It will participate in surplus, and you will have a 
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Upon a Tontine Policy there is no dividend available in 
less than 10 years. 

3d. — It is on the same footing with all other Policies as 
regards surrender or non-forfeiture, under the New York* 
State Law. A Tontine is not. 



K PfTOf( k SOUS, 

MANUFACTURERS OF THEIR CELEBRATED 

MILITARY BREECH-LOADING RIFLES,, 

; CARBINES and PISTOLS,' 

of which more than r,5oo,ooo have been sold to nearly 
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DouMe and Single-Barreled Shot Guns 

Equaled by few and inferior to none extant. 

Revolving, Repeating and Single Shot Pistols ; 

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Cartridges, Loading Implements, Shooting Canes 
Bullets, Primers, Shells, Etc., Etc. ' 

manufactory • 
ILION, HERKIMER COUNTY, N. Y., U. S. A. 

SALESROOMS: 
283 Broadway, New York, 

71 State Street, Chicago, 111., 

21 So. Howard Street, Baltimore, Md. 



LIGHTEN YOUR LABOR 

BY USING 

The Perfected Tm-Wpij. 

SEE WHAT IT WILL DO. 

FROM THE AUTHOR OF "HOW TO TRAVEL." 

New York, March 4, 1881. 
E. Remington & Sons :— Gentlemen : 

In reply to your inquiry of yesterday I beg to say that 
I consider the Type-Writer invaluable to any one who has 
a large amount of writing to do. For clearing off an 
accumulation of correspondence on returning from a 
journey -it is admirable, and for preparing printer's "copy" 
it is unrivaled. If I could not get another Type- Writer 
I would not willingly take ten thousand dollars for the 
one I now have. It is little more than two years since I 
bought it, and in all that time its repairs have cost exactly 
fifty cents. Besides.all my private correspondence, mag- 
azine articles, and newspaper matter, I have written four 
books with this machine and shall complete a fifth in a 
few days. The saving of time to me is not far from 25 
per cent., and in this one item the Type- Writer has paid 
for itself several times over. 

Very truly yours, 

THOS. W. KNOX. 



MANUFACTURED AND SOLD ONLY BY 

E. Remington & Sons, 

PRINCIPAL OFFICES : 

281 and 283 Broadway, New York. 

BRANCH OFFICES : 

38 Madison St., Chicago. 124 So. 7th St., Philadelphia. 



COLONEL KNOX'S 

BOOKS OF TRAVEL FOR BOYS. 

The BOY TRAVELERS in the FAR EAST.- 

PART I. 

Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Japan and 
China. By Thomas W. Knox. Illustrated. 8vo, 
Illuminated Cloth, $3.00. 



The BOY TRAVELERS in the FAR EAST. 

PART II. 

Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Siam and 
Java. With descriptions of Cochin-China, Cambodia, 
Sumatra, and the Malay Archipelago. By Thomas W. 
Knox. Illustrated. 8vo, Illuminated Cloth, $3.00. 



The BOY TRAVELERS in the FAR EAST. 

PART III. 

Adventures of Two Youths in a Journey to Ceylon 
and India. With descriptions of Borneo, the Philippine 
Islands, and Burmah. By Thomas W. Knox. Illus- 
trated. 8vo, Cloth, $3.00. 



The best, most instructive, and pleasing books for boys ever 
issued. — Boston Post. 



Published by HARPER & BROTHERS, 

Franklin Square, New York. 

HF" Harper & Brothers will send any of the above works by 
mail, postage prepaid, to any part of the United States, on receipt 
of price. 



THE MOST RELIABLE 

Trunks, Bags, Valises, &c., 



ARE MADE BY 



CROUCH & FITZGERALD, 

NEW YORK. 




TRUNKS 

For American Steamer and European Travel. 

ExTi^A Fine Quality of Th_avelh(g Bags, &c, &c. 

STORES : 
1 Cortland Street. (New Store,) 

556 Broadway. 723 Sixth Avenue, 

Below Forty-Second Street 

Ji^ 3 Send for Illustrated Catalogue. 



s? 



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Broadway, Madison Square, 



NEW YORK CITY. 



RESTAURANTS AND CAFE 
UNSURPASSED. 






AND 



Equal to Any in the World. 

C. H. READ, Prop'R. 



American Exchange in Europe, 

(LIMITED.) 
CAPITAL, ONE MILLION DOLLARS, 

(In One Hundred Thousand Shares of Ten Dollars each, with power to increase.) 

Fully Paid-up Sharks, $500,000.00. 
PRESIDENT, GEN'L MANAGER, 

Joseph R. .Hawley. Henry F. Gillig, 

Financial Offices and Reading Rooms, . ) 

Passenger and Railroad Offices, . . > 449 STRAND, W. C. 

Exchange and News Department, . . ) 

Commission and Skipping Departments, ) g ADELAIDE ST., 

Emigration and Land Branches, . . > r-tj a T>T\m m>rt'^Q 

Express and Storage Divisions, . .) LHAKlJMLr LKVZ>1>, 

LONDON, ENGLAND. 

NEW YORK BRANCH "CfflCE, 162 BROADWAY, 

General Agent, W. C. BOONE. 

Fiscal Agents, . . DONNELL, LAWSON & SIMPSON. 

Branch Office of Commission and Shipping Departments. 
50 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



The general object of this Company is to Advance 
and Protect American Interests in Europe : 

i st. — By establishing direct Business and Financial relations between 

every important business center of the United States and the 

great commercial and money centers of Europe. 
2d. — By opening up and extending new markets in Europe for American 

Manufactures and other Products, and Railroad, Mining, Landed, 

and other Properties: 
3d. — By promoting Emigration from England and other European 

countries to the United States. 
4th. — By aiding and protecting American Travel in Europe, through 

the extension of Financial facilities to Travelers, and rendering 

other necessary services. 
5th. — By promoting European Travel to the United States, and through 

the United States to Japan, China, and Australia, etc. 



TRAVELERS' CIRCULAR NOTES, available throughout the 
world, issued without charge for actual value in cash. 

N. B. The Circular Notes issued by this corporation are secured by 
deposit of United States Government Bonds. 

LETTERS OF CREDIT issued either against deposit of cash, or 
satisfactory guarantee of payment. 
.MONEY TRANSMITTED BY TELEGRAPH to all points. 

DRAFTS issued at current rates on all principal cities of the world. 

HENRY F. GlLLIG, General Manager. 



"Stcvfe 




Fine Art in Jewelry. 



HREE centuries ago the Jewelers of Europe 
were Artists in every sense of the word, and 
Artists of such taste and skill that their works 
which have come down to us now command 
prices as utterly disproportionate to the intrinsic 
value of the precious substances of which they 
are made as the prices paid for the best works 
of the Sculptor in bronze and marble are to the 
intrinsic value of the materials out of which 
those works are hewn or moulded. Many such 
Artists bequeathed legacies, since enormously 
increased in value, to the Goldsmiths' Company 
for the purpose of keeping alive their art, and 
the enlightened public of London are now be- 
ginning to insist that these endowments shall be 
put to their legitimate use. We have no Gold- 
smiths' Company in New York, but an hour 
spent in such an establishment as that of Mr. 
THEODORE B. STARR, 206 Fifth Avenue, 
in this city, will throw a great deal of light, for 
those who have eyes to see, on the possible im- 
portance, hitherto almost unappreciated among 
ourselves, of the aesthetic aspects of the beauti- 
ful industry by which that great corporation has 
been built up in the mother country. Mr. Starr 
has devoted himself steadily and successfully 
now for nearly twenty years to artistic work in 
Jewelry, and the display which he now makes of 
such work really deserves to rank among the 
the most interesting and instructive of our 
existing art collections. In the choice 
and conservation of the more brilliant 
gems — for there is an art in conserving 
as well as detecting the special perfec- 
tion of special gems as respects alike 
their surfaces, their crystallization, 
and their color — Mr. Starr shows the 
taste and training of an Artist, not 
less than in the skill and judgment 
with which he combines and sets such 
gems. — New York World. 




THE 

Pocket Guide 

FOR 

EUROPE. 



A PRACTICAL HAND-BOOK FOR TRAVELERS ON THE 

CONTINENT AND THE BRITISH ISLES, AND 

THROUGH NORTHERN AFRICA, EGYPT, 

AND THE HOLY LAND. 



By THOMAS W. KNOX, 



AUTHOR OF 



'OVERLAND THROUGH ASIA," "BACKSHEESH," "THE BOY TRAVELERS, 
"JOHN," "THE YOUNft NIMRODS," "HOW TO TRAVEL," Etc. 




NEW YORK: > 
CHAS. T. DILLINGHAM. 
BOSTON: LEE & SHEPARD. 
LONDON, PARIS, AND GENEVA : THE AMERICAN EX- 
CHANGE IN EUROPE (LIMITED). 

1882. 




Entered according to Act of Congress in the year 1881, by 

THOMAS W. KNOX, 
In the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



All rights of translation and foreign publication are 



,K74 




PREFACE. 



The author has been led to the preparation of this 
volume by the hope of meeting the wants of those who 
desire a description of the tour of Europe in a form 
convenient for the pocket. The success of "How to 
Travel," and the warm commendations of that little 
volume, coming from every quarter, have inspired the 
present work. If the result shall be that " The Pocket* 
Guide for Europe " receives as kindly a welcome as its 
predecessor, and achieves as extensive a sale, the author 
will be well repaid (in mind and purse) for the labor of 
its preparation. 

The reader who expects to find a full and detailed 
description of the whole of Europe in this little book will 
be doomed to a disappointment as great as that of the 
man who seeks a hearty dinner in the compass of a pea- 
nut shell. The writer's aim has been to give a general 
outline of the tour of the Continent, together with that of 
the southern and eastern shores of the Mediterranean? 
leaving the reader to select the route best suited to his 
time and purse, and to fill in the details as he goes along. 
Especial attention is called to the skeleton tours indicated 

3 



4 PKEFACE. 

in Chapter XV, which are suited to the requirements of 
travelers who have only a few weeks and a few hundred 
dollars at their disposal, as well as to those whose bank 
accounts are unlimited and whose time is their own. 

The author ventures to claim that- he writes from prac- 
tical knowledge of his subject. He has gone over nearly 
all the ground he describes, and speaks from personal 
experience of the hotels, railways, steamboats, diligences, 
and other means of travel in Europe. Since this book 
was projected he has made a special tour to the countries 
most frequented by Americans who go abroad for the 
summer, and the results of his observations are embodied 
in' the volume oi which this is the preface. He most 
earnestly hopes that his labors have not been in vain. 

With this explanation of the motives for adding a guide- 
book to the many already in existence, the author makes 
his bow to the public and submits his work for inspection 
and approval. 

T. W. K. 

New York, March, 1882. 



TABLE OF MONEY. 



In the following table the equivalents of American 
money in the currencies of the principal countries of 
Europe are given. Some of them are not mathematically 
exact, but are near enough for all practical wants of the 
traveler. 



American. 


English. 


j French. 


German. 


Austrian. 


Doll. 


Cents. 


L. 


8. 


D. 


Ft. 


Cent. 


M. 


Pf- 


Fl. 


Kr. 


— 


M 


— 


— 


% 


— 


6*4 


— 


5 


— 


m 


— 


2V 2 


— 


— 


1*4 


— 


i2y 2 


— 


10 


— 


5 


— 


5 


■ — ■ 


— 


W* 


i — 


25 


— 


20 


— 


10 


— 


10 


— 


— 


5 


— 


50 


— 


40 


— 


20 


— 


W 


— 


— 


6 


< — 


62^ 


— 


50 


— 


25 


— 


20 


— ■ 


— 


10 


j 1 


— 


— 


80 


— 


40 


— 


25 


— 


1 


— . 


1 


25 


1 


— 


— 


50 


— 


50 


— 


2 


— 


2 


50 


2 


— 


1 


— 


— 


75 


— 


3 


— 


3 


75 


3 


— 


1 


50 


1 


— 


— 


4 


— 


5 


— 


4 


— 


2 


— 


1 


25 


— 


5 


— 


6 


25 


5 


— 


2 


50 


1 


50 


— 


6 


— 


7 


50 


6 


— 


3 


— 


1 


75 


— 


7 


— 


8 


75 


7 


— 


3 


50 


2 


— 


-J- 


8 


— 


10 


— 


8 


— 


4 


— 


2 


25 


— . 


9 


— 


; ii 


25 


9 


— 


4 


50 


2 


50 


— 


10 


— 


1 12 


50 


10 


— 


5 


— 


3 


— 


— 


12 


— 


1 15 


— 


12 


— 


6 


— 


4 


— . 


— 


16 


— 


j 20 


— 


16 


— 


8 


— 


5 


— 


1 


— 


— 


1 25 


— 


20 


— 


10 


— 



French currency is the standard of Switzerland, Italy, 
and Belgium, in addition to the country of its origin. In 
Italian the franc is called a lira (plural lire) and centimes 
are centissimi. In Russia the rouble (75 cents American) 
is divided into 100 kopecks. In Sweden and Norway the 
krone (about 27^ cents) is divided into 100 ore ; an English 
sovereign is worth 18 krone. In Holland the florin or 
gulden (40 cents American) is divided into 100 cents. In 
Turkey, Egypt, and the Levant values are generally ex- 
pressed in francs in dealings with foreigners. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER. PAGE. 

I. Departure from Home, — the Transatlantic 

Voyage, 7 

II. Ireland and Scotland, 14 

III. Liverpool to London, — London, - - 26 

IV. Environs of London, — Cathedral Cities, — 

London to Paris, - - - - - 41 

V. Paris and its Environs, 54 

VI. From Paris to Naples, — Central and South- 
ern Italy, - - 68 

VII. Northern Italy, — Bologna, Venice, Milan, 

Turin, Verona, etc., - - - - - 79 

VIII. From Italy to Switzerland, — the Regular 

Swiss Round, ------ 90 

IX. Switzerland continued, — the Rhine and Ger- 
many, ------- 104 

X. The Austrian Empire, — the Danube, — 

Southern Russia and Constantinople, - 117 
XL The South of France, — A Tour through 

Spain, - - - - - -129 

XII. .Belgium and Holland, - - - - - 141 

XIII. Denmark, Norway, and Sweden, — the Land 

of the Midnight Sun, - - - - 160 

XIV. Russia, Algeria, Kgypt, and the Holy Land, 168 
XV. Outline Tours through Europe, - - - 179 

Index, - - 185 



CHAPTER I. 

DEPARTURE FROM HOME.— THE TRANSAT- 
LANTIC VOYAGE. 

One of the first questions asked by a practical American 
who contemplates a trip to Europe is the probable cost of 
the excursion. The interrogatory is about as difficult to 
answer as the schoolboy's conundrum : " How much does 
a live hog weigh ? " Much depends upon the taste of the 
individual, and much more on the duration of the tour and 
the distance traveled in Europe. The minimum for a trip 
of ten weeks, including the outward and return passages 
and a visit to England, Scotland, Ireland, France, Switzer- 
land, and parts of Italy and Germany, may be placed at 
$350 to $400, while the maximum can be anything you 
please. To keep within the above figures and travel 
through the countries mentioned the tourist will need to 
practice considerable economy ; he should occupy the sec- 
ond cabin of the steamships, or the first cabin on the 
cheaper lines, and avoid first class on the railways. He 
should seek the second class hotels in Great Britain and 
on the Continent, and in other ways he will find it judicious 
to keep a close watch on the strings of his purse. By 
shortening the time to seven or eight weeks, first class 
may be substituted for second, but the majority of tourists 
with limited means will prefer the longer time with its 
consequent restrictions. 

An allowance of five dollars a day, in addition to rail- 
way and steamship fares, will meet the requirements of 

(7) 



8 POCKET GUIDE FOE EUROPE. 

most travelers who are inclined to economy. Beyond this 
figure we can easily ascend to ten or twelve dollars, when 
we reach the domain of luxury or at all events tread 
closely on its borders. Ten dollars a day will cover all 
expenses of an extended journey, provided the tourist 
does not skip rapidly from place to place and make his 
halts too brief. It will include railway and steamship 
fares, permit of the patronage of first class hotels, and 
cover, in fact, all disbursements within the limits of ordi- 
nary thrift : it requires no economy on the one hand, and 
permits no extravagance on the other. 

Funds should be carried in the form of a letter of credit 
or circular notes, which any banker can procure for you. 
The letter of credit is a single document printed in blank 
on the first page of a letter sheet and then filled in with 
the amount of the credit and the name of the bearer, 
whose signature should appear at the bottom of the page. 
The second page is reserved for the endorsement of the 
amounts drawn, while the third and fourth pages of the 
sheet contain the list of correspondents of the issuing 
house. Money can be drawn through any of these corre- 
spondents and generally through any reputable banker, 
but the letter of credit is not available elsewhere than at 
a banking house. Circular notes may be cashed at hotels 
or in shops where the traveler may be making extensive 
purchases, as well as at the banker's. They are for various 
amounts from one pound sterling upwards, and accompa- 
nied by a letter of indication, which resembles in general 
appearance the letter of credit. The notes are useless 
without the letter of indication, and the letter equally 
useless without the notes ; the necessity of having two 
valuable parcels to look after instead of one and the 
aggregate bulk of both when carried in the pocket are the 
principal objections to this form of credit. After a some- 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 9 

what lengthened experience the author gives his prefer- 
ence to the letter of credit, which he carries fastened 
securely into an inner pocket of his garments. He does 
not leave it in his trunk or other article of baggage, and 
when stopping a week or more in a city he leaves the 
document in the safe of the hotel or at his banker's. It 
is a serious matter to lose a letter of credit when one is 
away from friends and home, and a thing equally serious 
is to learn some fine morning that the bank which issued 
it has failed. A single experience of this sort is more 
than enough. 

The credit secured or provided for, the next thing to 
look after is the steamer on which you will cross the At- 
lantic ; or you may first secure your passage and leave the 
arrangement of the credit to be made immediately before 
your departure. There are some fifteen or twenty lines 
of steamships from which to choose. The Anchor, Na- 
tional, Monarch, and Great Western are the cheapest, 
while the Cunard, Inman, Guion, White Star, American, 
French, Hamburg, and Bremen are thp dearest. Between 
the high and low prices are the Rotterdam, Antwerp, Red 
Star, and State lines; and it is possible that other lines 
may come into existence while this book is passing 
through the press. The traveler will choose according to 
his purse and his tastes, and whatever company receives 
his patronage is pretty sure to give him the worth of his 
money. Return tickets, available for a year, are issued 
by nearly all the companies at a reduction of ten per cent. 
These tickets are not transferable, and the companies 
refuse to redeem them in cash ; so that when the tourist 
has purchased a round-trip or excursion ticket he is bound 
to return by the line on which he made his outward jour- 
ney. Secure your place as early as possible, and by so 
doing have a better selection of rooms. A berth, 



10 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

amidships, or about half way between the bow and stern, 
is preferable to one farther aft, as you have less of the 
vibration of the screw, and also less of the motion of the 
ship while pitching. As for the rolling of the steamer, 
there is no way of escaping it. Some ships are worse 
than others in this respect, and, if tender in the stomach, 
you will do well to inform yourself as to the character 
and performances of the craft on which you propose to 
embark. The agents can generally satisfy you on this 
point, though it sometimes happens that their statements 
are not fully realized. 

Take a suit of old clothes for wearing on the steamer, 
your oldest and heaviest overcoat, and a shawl or rug for 
the cold weather you are sure to encounter on the voyage. 
Have a bag or valise in which these things can be packed 
and left at the steamer's destination till your return ; and 
if you take a steamer chair along it can be stored with 
the bag. A cap or soft hat for the deck is advisable, as 
the winds of the Atlantic make sad havoc with the fash- 
ionable " plug," and the closer the traveler's head-cover- 
ing fits to his skull the better will he find it. For travel 
on the continent and in Great Britain a suit of gray tweed, 
either dark or light according to your style of beauty, 
will be sufficient, with a spare suit of some material 
approaching black. Many persons go without the spare 
suit, but they run the risk of being without a change in 
the event of being wet by the rain, or otherwise drenched, 
and every tourist is liable to find frequent occasion when 
something besides his ordinary traveling suit is desirable. 
A week's supply of shirts and collars, with a complete 
change of underclothing, is sufficient, as you can always 
have your washing done in any city where you remain 
more than a single day. In many hotels, washing can be 
given out in the morning and returned the same evening, 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 11 

and sometimes it can be done over night, but such celer- 
ity is not to be relied on. If you expect to do anything 
in the " society " line, a dress suit will be indispensable. 
In default of having your own along, you can hire from a 
waiter at the hotel or from men who make it a business to 
let out second-hand clothing, but the fit is not all that a 
fastidious man desires^ and there are other objections 
that need not be mentioned. 

At sea, anything that breaks the monotony is hailed 
with delight. Passing ships and steamers are the sub- 
jects of much conversation; a school of porpoises will 
bring the passengers in a dense group to the rail ; a land 
bird alighting in the rigging will arouse universal interest ; 
and a whale will attract a large, and sometimes an excited 
audience. The transatlantic steamers are distinguished 
by their funnels as follows : 

Inman Line — Lower two-thirds black, with a white 
band and black top. 

Bremen Line — Black, with German flag. 

Anchor Line — Black, with English flag. 

Cunard Line — Red, with black top, and English flag. 

Guion Line— Black, with a red band near the top. 

French Line— Red, with black top, and French flag. 

National Line — White, with black top. 

White Star Line — Yellow, with black top. 

Hamburg Line — Black, with German flag. 

Rotterdam Line — Black, with green and white top. 

Monarch Line — French gray, with a black top. 

Of course it is impossible to distinguish the flags and 
funnels at night. Rockets and lights are then used for 
signaling in the following manner : 

Inman Line — Blue lights forward and aft ; red light 
on bridge and variegated rocket. 

Bremen Line — Blue lights forward and aft, and two 
rockets simultaneously. 



12 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

National Line — Blue light, rocket and red light in 
succession. 

Allan Line — Blue, white, and red rockets in succes- 
sion. 

Anchor Line — Red and white lights alternately. 

Cunard Line — Two rockets and blue lights simulta- 
neously. 

Hamburg Line — Fireball, rocket, and fireball in suc- 
cession. 

State Line — Red light, rocket, and two blue lights, 
one forward and one aft. 

White Star Line— Green light, rocket throwing two 
green stars. 

Guion Line — Blue lights forward, aft, and on bridge 
simultaneously. 

French Line — Two rockets forward, one gun and two 
rockets aft. 

The traveler who desires further information about sea 
and ocean travel, life on shipboard, seasickness and its 
mysteries and miseries, is referred to chapters IV, V, VII, 
and XV of " How to Travel," by the author of this vol- 
ume. For our present purposes, we must consider the 
Atlantic voyage at an end, as our space is limited and we 
have the whole of Europe before us. Whether we land 
in England, in Great Britain, France, Germany, or Hol- 
land, we shall be met with the formalities of the custom- 
house, which, happily, are not severe. There are few 
things besides tobacco, cigars, and spirits that can be car- 
ried from America to Europe with profit ; and when the 
officials are convinced that you have none or but little of 
the prohibited merchandise they are ready to bow you out 
of their precincts. You may carry a pound of tobacco 
or a box containing one hundred cigars without inter- 
ference, but you must declare and exhibit them, or they 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 13 

Will be liable to confiscation. Tea and coffee are also lia- 
ble to duty, but they are rarely carried by tourists, and, if 
so carried, they must be declared. Firearms are. liable to 
seizure, especially in Ireland, and it is well for the trav- 
eler to leave his revolvers and rifles at home Do not 
attempt to bribe the customs officials, as it is morally 
wrong to do so, and besides you might hit the wrong man, 
and get into trouble. In Turkey, Syria, and Egypt you 
ban bribe with impunity, as the custom is universal, but 
in England and on the continent a different code of 
biorals is in vogue. 



CHAPTER II. 

IRELAND AND SCOTLAND. 

Nine-tenths of the tourists from the Atlantic seaboard 
to Europe travel by the Liverpool steamships, for the rea, 
son that nine-tenths of the steamships ply from that port. 
A fourth or more of these tourists land at Queenstown, 
for the purpose of seeing Ireland, and the remaining 
three-fourths intend to make the tour of the Emerald 
Isle on their homeward journey, and catch the steamer at 
Queenstown. Not one-fifth of this number ever do so. 
Weariness, exhaustion of money, unexpected delays, and 
other causes combine to prevent their visiting Erin, and 
they are barely able to reach Liverpool in season to board 
the ship that is to bear them homeward. If you intend 
to see Ireland during your tour abroad, do- so at the 
beginning. Land at Queenstown, and do not think of 
waiting till your return. 

The prudent traveler has arranged his journey before 
leaving America, and decided where he is going and what 
he wishes to see. If the exigencies of departure have 
prevented his doing so at home, he should settle the mat- 
ter before reaching Queenstown, so that he may determine 
whether to go on shore there or remain with the ship to 
Liverpool. We will suppose he has included Ireland in 
the lands he wishes to see, and that the tender which 
meets the steamer just outside the harbor has deposited 
him safe at the landing place. 

His welcome in the Old World is not an agreeable one, 

(14) 



POCKET GUIDE FOB, EUROPE. 15 

as he is assailed by beggars more numerous than he has 
ever seen this gentry before. They implore him for pen- 
nies in the most piteous tones, and, if his disposition is at 
all generous, he will very likely deplete his pockets before 
he has been five minutes on shore. He is brought face 
to face with the poverty of Ireland, and, as they cluster 
about him and refuse to be driven away, he begins to fear 
that, like the poor of Scripture, they will be always with 
him. If they give him an opportunity to look about, he 
will find that Queenstown is nestled under a range of 
hills on the shores of a magnificent harbor; and, if the 
weather is fine, the ascent of the heights back of the 
town is repaid by a most beautiful view. 

There are three express trains daily for Cork and Dub- 
lin. Two of these trains connect with steamers from 
Kingstown, near Dublin, to Holyhead, whence trains run 
direct to London. The English capital may be reached 
in eighteen hours from Queenstown : fares, first-class, 
eighty shillings ; second-class, fifty-three shillings. Home- 
ward passengers who wish to stay as long as possible in 
London may start on the evening of the day their steamer 
sails from Liverpool, and, by traveling all night and till 
four P. M. of the next day, catch her before her departure. 
This can only be done with the mail steamers ; those that 
carry no mails do not wait for the arrival of the London 
express. 

It is about ten miles from Queenstown to Cork. There 
are three ways of making the journey : you can go by 
the railway, take seat on left of train, or by steamboat up 
the river Lea, or by steamboat to Passage, and thence by 
rail. The steamboats are preferable, as giving the best 
view, but they run only three or four times daily, while 
the trains leave almost every hour, and, if pressed for 
time, you will take one of the railway routes. There is 



16 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

little of interest in Cork, as it contains no buildings of 
prominence in the way of architecture. In the tower of 
the Shanclon church are the famous " bells of Shandon," 
and, by paying a fee to the custodian, you may possibly 
hear them sound " on the pleasant waters of the river 
Lea." Seven miles from Cork is Blarney Castle, reached 
by railway to Blarney station, or by jaunting car over the 
carriage road, the latter route to be preferred. A jaunt- 
ing car to the castle and back will cost from four to eight 
shillings, according to the temper of the driver and the 
demand for carriages. In making the bargain, be sure 
and say " there and back," otherwise the driver will insist 
that the contract was for the single journey only and 
demand additional pay for the return. The same precau- 
tion is necessary all over Ireland, as the Irish driver is up 
to all the tricks for which his New York cousin is famous. 

The ride to Blarney is delightful. The castle, four hun- 
dred years old, is sadly in ruin, and the donjon tower is 
nearly all that remains of it. " There's a stone there 
that whoe'er kisses, sure he ne'er misses to become elo- 
quint." So says a famous Irish writer, and it has become 
the duty of every visitor to kiss the Blarney Stone. The 
real one is built into the wall at a dizzy height from the 
ground, and to kiss it requires that the osculist shall be 
lowered by the heels from a window-sill above. On the 
floor of the tower is another stone said to possess equal 
merits, and consequently it receives the lip-service of the 
great majority of tourists. The results are often appar- 
ent in the flowery descriptions contained in tourists' let- 
ters to friends at home. 

From Cork to Dublin is a ride of seven to eight hours. 
The majority of tourists who have sufficient leisure leave 
the main line at Mallow and proceed thence to Killarney 
for a view of the famous lakes. The railway journey is 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 17 

about six hours, and the station at Killarney is nearly two 
miles from the lakes. There is another route from Cork 
by Macroom and Glengariff, partly by rail and partly by 
stage-coach, that requires two days and is preferable to 
the all-rail journey if one can spare the time. There is 
also a coach in summer, by still another route from Cork 
to Killarney, which makes the trip in a single day. It 
can be heard of at the Cork hotels. Fare, twenty shil- 
lings. 

Killarney may be done in a single day, but it is better 
to take more time if possible. Arrangements can be 
made at the hotels for the necessary' conveyance, which 
includes carriages, saddle-horses, and a boat. From Kil- 
larney to the Gap of Dimloe is a ride of eleven miles, 
where the carriage must be abandoned for the saddle- 
horse, to Lord Brandon's cottage, four miles further. 
Many persons prefer to make the whole fifteen miles on 
foot, and there is no law restricting them, though they are 
likely to be severely pestered by beggars. Beggary is the 
. principal industry of the inhabitants of this region. Trav- 
elers sometimes endeavor to escape the infliction by say- 
ing they have ho small change ; but, in such cases, the fel- 
low who has been pleading for a sixpence to save him 
from starvation will very likely offer to accommodate you 
with change for a sovereign. The principal sights along 
the road are the ruins of Agadhoe, which date from the 
twelfth century, and stand on an elevation overlooking 
Lough Leane. They are about two miles from Killarney, 
and the view from the front of the ruins is decidedly 
pretty. Five miles farther is Duhloe Castle and the Cave 
of Dunloe. The latter is chiefly interesting to antiqua- 
rians, as it contains inscriptions which are supposed to 
have been made by the Druids. Near the entrance to the 
Gap of Dunloe is the cottage of Kate Kearney, celebrated 
2 



18 POCKET GUIDE FOB, EUROPE. 

in song, and now principally attractive to the wayfarer as 
a repository of goats' milk and " mountain dew," which 
is dispensed by a descendant of the whilom enchantress. 
Drink sparingly of the dew, lest your footsteps become 
irregular in the passage of the Gap. 

The Gap of Dunloe is a wild pass in the mountains, 
and in some places the river and bridle-path seem to con- 
tend for the right of way. At five places the river 
expands into lakes, and near one of them is the spot 
where St. Patrick is said to have extirpated the last snake 
of Ireland. On one side of the pass is Purple Moun- 
tain, nearly three thousand feet high. A view from its 
summit includes a considerable stretch of the surround- 
ing country, together with Kenmare and Bantry bays and 
the mouth of the Shannon. At Lord Brandon's cottage 
the boat will be found waiting for the return journey of 
eleven miles to Killarney. The blarneying boatman will 
describe the route, and people the mountains and lakes 
with fairies and goblins without number, and he will give 
legendary history sufficient to make the Arabian Nights 
hide their diminished heads. The remaining sights of 
Killarney are Muckross Abbey and Tore Cascade, the 
former three miles from the village, and the latter two 
miles farther. The Abbey is beautifully situated, but is 
considerably in ruins, though sufficient remains to give a 
good idea of its original character. It was founded in 
1440, and restored in 1602. Tore Cascade is about sev- 
enty feet high, and from its top there is an exceedingly 
pretty view, well repaying the fatigue of climbing there. 

From Killarney to Dublin is a ride of seven hours, — 
forty-one miles to Mallow, and thence one hundred and 
forty-five miles by the main line. If the tourist wishes to 
visit Galway and Limerick he will leave the main line at 
Charleville, the first station beyond Mallow, and take the 



POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 19 

branch to the left, which will carry him to Limerick. 
The lace manufactories are the principal attraction of 
Limerick; the Thormond and Wellesley bridges, especi- 
ally the latter, are worthy of inspection. There are three 
routes from Limerick to Galway, two of them being com- 
binations of steamer, jaunting-car, and rail, and the third 
all rail. The town is quite picturesque, especially to eyes 
fresh from America, and an interesting excursion may be 
made by steamer up Lough Corrib to Cong and thence by 
jaunting-car to Maam and Clifden. From Galway pro- 
ceed direct by rail to Dublin, or leave the Dublin route at 
Mullingar for Londonderry. The quaintness of this town 
and its historical associations are full of interest, and 
there are several excursions in the neighborhood that will 
not be regretted. 

From Londonderry go by rail to Port Rush, and then 
ride nine miles in a jaunting-car to the Giant's Causeway. 
Returning to Port Rush, take the train for Belfast, passing 
Ballymoney and Antrim, which are unworthy of a special 
visit. Belfast has the largest and finest linen manufacto- 
ries in the world, and there are several public buildihgs 
that will repay a visit. Pleasant excursions can be made 
on Belfast Lough by steamer or along its banks by jaunting- 
car. Clandeboye, the residence of the Earl of Dufferin, is 
particularly interesting, and a fine view is presented from 
the summit of the tower. 

From Belfast to Dublin is a ride of one hundred and 
ten miles by rail, or you may proceed in eight hours, by 
steamer, to Glasgow, or to Liverpool in ten or twelve 
hours. Dublin is the largest city of Ireland and its capital. 
It contains many public buildings of importance, the most 
noteworthy being the Post-office in Sackville street, Trinity 
College, Christ Church, the Custom-house, and the Four 
Courts. Nelson's Monument, in front of the Post-office, 



20 POCKET GUIDE FOB, EUROPE. 

repays the fatigue of its ascent by the excellent view it 
gives of the city, which stands on both sides of the river 
Liffey, and can boast of fine bridges and quays. The 
Castle is in the center of Dublin, and has been so much 
modernized that the visitor can hardly realize its antiquity. 
But the vice-regal chapel and the state apartments are 
worth seeing, and should not be neglected. Phenix Park, 
which the natives call "The Faynix," contains nearly 1800 
acres, and is one of the finest city parks In the world. 
Take a drive through it, and don't fail to see the Straw- 
berry Beds. 

We have done with Ireland and can take the steamer 
from Dublin in four hours to Holyhead, whence the train 
carries us to London, Chester, Liverpool, or anywhere 
else in the country we may wish to go ; or we may take 
the steamer to Liverpool in eight or ten hours, and go 
from there where we like. If we intend visiting Scotland 
before England, we can go from Liverpool by rail to 
Glasgow, or retrace our steps to Belfast and cross the 
Channel by steamer, as before "indicated. Ascending the 
Clyde we get a glimpse of the shipyards where most of 
the great steamers navigating the ocean were constructed 
and where the tourist is pretty certain to see numerous 
vessels on the stocks. Glasgow is chiefly interesting, in 
addition to its ship-building, for its manufactures of cotton, 
paper, and chemicals, and also for its production of beer. 
The largest chemical establishment in the world, employ- 
ing more than a thousand men, is in Glasgow ; it has a 
chimney four hundred and fifty feet high, while another 
concern near by has a chimney fifteen feet taller. The 
population exceeds half a million, while it was little more 
than eighty thousand at the beginning of the century. 
The Cathedral dates from the twelfth century and is 
a magnificent structure. The windows are of modern 



POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 21 

stained glass, except in the crypt and chapter -house, and 
there are more than eighty of them. The crypt is pro- 
nounced one of the finest in the world. Near the Cathe- 
dral, and connected with it by the " Bridge of Sighs," 
is the Necropolis, which contains many fine tombs and 
monuments, including one to the memory of John Knox. 
An excellent view of Glasgow can be obtained from the 
highest point of the cemetery. Make an excursion to 
Hamilton Palace and Bothwell Castle if you have the 
time to spare. 

From Glasgow to the Highlands there is a steamer 
every day at 7 A. M., reaching Oban at 5 p. m., or if you 
are late you can take the train at 7.45 and meet the steamer 
at Greenock. From Greenock the route is by the Firth 
of Dunoon, Rothesay, the Kyles of Bute and Tarbert, 
where the steamer connects with a boat for Islay. The 
next stop is at Ardrishaig, where the Crinan Canal, nine 
miles long, is entered; at the other end of the canal we 
come to Crinan, and thence proceed to Oban. The scen- 
ery along the entire route is magnificent, every moment 
developing something new and interesting. From Oban 
a trip may be made in a single day around the Island of 
Mull to Staff a and Iona, and if the weather is favorable 
the tourist can visit Fingal's Cave. There are numerous 
side excursions among the Highlands and in their vicinity, 
and a week may be spent there profitably. 

From Oban to Inverness by the Caledonian Canal, con- 
necting the Atlantic with the German Ocean, the distance 
is sixty miles ; one-third of the way the canal is artificial, 
while the rest of the distance is through lakes and rivers. 
The depth of water is seventeen feet, so that large steam- 
ers are used for the navigation. The best plan is to leave 
Oban in the evening and spend the night at Banavie, near 
the southern end of the canal and eight miles from Ben 



22 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland. On the canal 
the first object of interest is Tor Castle (ruined), which 
was once the stronghold of the Camerons. Then we 
come to Loch Lochy, ten miles long, and afterwards to 
Loch Oich, which is the highest lake on the route. The 
descent from this lake is by a series of locks for a distance 
of two miles, occupying about an hour and a half; in 
pleasant weather passengers prefer to walk, as they can 
do so very leisurely while the steamer is making her way 
to Loch Ness. The objects of interest are Invergarry 
Castle (ruined), and the famous Fall of Foyers, which is 
visited from the pier of Foyers, where the steamer re- 
mains a short time. Beyond Foyers we pass the ruins of 
Urquhart Castle, and afterwards go from Loch Ness to 
Loch Defour, which is the last of the series of lakes. 
Emerging from the canal beyond Loch Defour the steamer 
ends her journey at Muirtown, the port of Inverness, 
which is about a mile from the landing. There are many 
delightful excursions in the neighborhood of Inverness, 
but the town itself contains little of interest. 

From Inverness to Edinburgh there are two routes, one 
via Fife, one hundred and ninety miles, and the other via 
Stirling, two hundred and thirteen miles. The latter is pref- 
erable, and you should take a seat on the right of the car- 
riage if possible. Stirling Castle may be visited on this 
route or left for a special excursion from Edinburgh. 
Aberdeen, Dundee, and Perth can be visited if the tourist 
has the time and inclination to stop there, but they are 
hardly worth the delay to the mere sight-seer. Aberdeen 
is very solidly built of granite, and is sometimes called 
the Granite City ; and Dundee has an excellent harbor, 
with well-built docks and quays. 

The excursion to the Caledonian Canal may be com- 
bined with one to the Trossachs and Loch Lomond. It 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 23 

is advisable to take the Trossach excursion first and 
return to Glasgow from Stirling, instead of proceeding to 
Edinburgh. Most travelers make it in a single day, leav- 
ing Glasgow early in the morning and arriving at Edin- 
burgh a little before ten o'clock at night. The journey is 
by rail, stage-coach, and steamboat, — first by rail from 
Glasgow to Balloch, twenty miles, passing Dumbarton, 
with its fine old castle on a rock five hundred and sixty 
feet above the river, and from Balloch to Inversnaid by 
steamer, over Loch Lomond, twenty-one miles, giving a 
fine view of the famous mountain, Ben Lomond. Then 
we go by coach five miles to Loch Katrine, and embark 
on a little steamer, which carries us nearly eight miles, 
where we again mount a coach for a nine-mile ride to 
Callandar. This coach-ride carries us through the Tros- 
sachs, a wild mountain gorge about a mile long at the end 
of Loch Katrine. Along the lake and in the mountains 
adjacent there are many spots which have become cele- 
brated in Scott's " Lady of the Lake " and other works, 
and the observant traveler is not likely to find the time 
hanging heavy on his hands. Among the points of note 
are The Silver Strand, Ellen's Isle, Duncraggan, the 
Brigg of Turk, and Clan-Alpine's Outmost Guard, where 
Fitz-James was challenged by Rhoderick Dhu. 

From Callandar to Stirling is a run of fifteen miles by 
rail ; and the route is so arranged that a halt of more 
than three hours allows a visit to the castle and a ramble 
through the town before starting for Edinburgh, thirty- 
six miles away. The view from the top of the castle is 
pronounced by many persons the finest in all England, 
and certainly there are few landscape scenes that can sur- 
pass it. Mountains, lake, valley, river, plain, and city are 
spread like a map before the spectator. In addition to 
these attractions, there are the historic associations con- 



24 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

nected with Stirling Castle and the Field of Bannockburn, 
which lies almost at our feet. 

Whether we come from the Trossachs or the Caledon- 
ian Canal, our excursion in Scotland brings us to Edin- 
burgh, which we can hurry through in a single day, but 
will afterwards regret that we did not devote two or three 
days to it. It is one of the most picturesque places in 
the world, and old travelers have declared that they could 
pick out bits of almost every famous city while going 
through Edinburgh. It is on a series of hills. The 
highest of these is in the center of the city and crowned 
by the Castle. To the east is the old town and Holyrood 
Palace, and to the north is the greater part of modern 
Edinburgh. Space forbids a full description, and we can 
only enumerate, among the objects of interest in and 
around Edinburgh, Carlton Hill, Arthur's Seat, Salisbury 
crags, the Botanic gardens, Fine Arts gallery, the Meadows, 
the University, Royal Exchange, Parliament House, the 
Cathedral, Nelson's monument, John Knox's house, Can- 
ongate Church, Heriot's Hospital, Scott's house, and 
Greyfriars' Churchyard. Hawthornden House and Ros- 
lyn Chapel can be seen in a short excursion of twenty 
miles by rail or carriage. The hours for visiting Holy- 
rood Palace, the Castle, and other public buildings and 
monuments can be ascertained at the hotel. 

Leaving Edinburgh in the direction of London, we can 
stop at Melrose, thirty-seven miles, to see Melrose Abbey, 
Abbotsford, three miles from Melrose, and Dryburgh 
Abbey, four miles. From Melrose the railway carries us 
to Carlisle, where we halt for a visit to the lake district 
of England, in case we have included it in our tour. 
This excursion will carry us through Maryport and Work- 
ington to Keswick, where we reach the northern end of 
Derwent Water, which is three miles long by a mile in 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 25 

width. In the neighborhood are Lodore and Borrowdale ; 
and when we have seen them we go by coach to Patterdale 
for a visit to Ullswater lake. Then the coach carries ns 
to Ambleside, and thence to Windermere, and when we 
have done with Windermere and its beautiful lake we pro- 
ceed by rail via Kendal and Carnforth to Liverpool. If 
the lake region is omitted and the tourist is in a hurry, he 
will not stop at Carlisle, but proceed direct from Melrose 
to London, with a possible halt of an hour or two at York 
for a view of its celebrated cathedral. 



CHAPTER III. 

LIVERPOOL TO LONDON. LONDON. 

We have reached Liverpool from Ireland, Scotland, or 
from America direct, and have time to look through the 
city. A glance at St. George's Hall and one or two other 
public buildings will suffice. The great objects of inter- 
est are the famous docks, which are the finest in the 
world and extend nearly seven miles along the river, while 
they have a linear frontage of quays of about twenty 
miles. The sea-wall that separates them from the river 
is about forty feet high and eleven feet thick, and there 
are nearly one hundred pairs of gates, the most of them 
wide enough to admit the largest ships and steamers. 
The area of enclosed space is more than five hundred 
acres. There are similar docks at Birkenhead, on the 
opposite side of the Mersey, but they are not so large and 
extensive. A street railway — called tramway in England — 
runs along the land side of the docks, so that the tourist 
economically inclined may visit them with very little 
expense. Take an outside seat. 

We have several routes to London, three by the Great 
Western railway, one by the Midland, and two by the 
London & Northwestern. The Great Western enables us 
to see Chester, Shrewsbury, Hereford, and Swindon by 
one route, Birmingham, Oxford, and Reading by another, 
and Worcester by a third. Both the last-named routes 
include Chester and Shrewsbury. By the Northwestern 
we may make the shortest direct ride in five hours, — two 

(26) 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 27 

hundred and six miles — or may pass through Chester, as 
on the Great Western. If we go by the Midland, we can 
see Manchester and the peaks of Derbyshire, and if we 
travel at night we will find an old acquaintance on the 
road in the shape of the Pullman sleeping-car, which is 
replaced in the daytime by the Pullman palace or parlor 
car. Chester is sixteen miles from Liverpool, and is one 
of the most quaint and interesting cities of England. It 
was a city in the time of the Romans, and stands on an 
elevation nearly encircled by the river Dee. The enclos- 
ing walls, about two miles long, are well preserved. Por- 
tions of them are of Roman origin, and the remainder 
are said to date from the time of Edward I. The " Rows " 
cross the city at right angles, and consist of covered side- 
walks in the second stories of the buildings, with steps at 
intervals leading down to the street below. The principal 
shops of Chester are on the inner sides of these rows, 
and many of the buildings are of wood and of very great 
age. The most interesting of them is Stanley House; 
and there is a curious old tavern called the Edgar Inn, 
where King Edgar is said to have lodged during his visit 
to Chester more than nine hundred years ago. The 
Cathedral and St. John's Church are very old structures, 
the latter dating from the twelfth century, while the 
former is very little behind it in antiquity. If the stranger 
happens at Chester during the time of the races, he can 
view the sport from the walls of the city, with the river 
Dee as a background for the picture. 

The traveler who comes from Ireland by the most rapid 
route will reach Chester from Holyhead instead of Liver- 
pool. The points of interest between Holyhead and Ches- 
ter include Bangor, twenty-five miles from the former place 
and a favorite resort in summer. It contains a small but 
old cathedral, which will repay a visit. Two miles farther 



28 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

is the famous Menai Suspension Bridge, over Menai 
Straits. It was one of the wonders of the world at the 
time of its construction (1820), but is now surpassed by 
many other bridges of later date. The Britannia Tubular 
Bridge crosses the Menai Straits about a mile from the 
Suspension Bridge ; the floor is one hundred feet above 
the water, and the bridge has two spans, each four hun- 
dred and fifty feet long. Carnarvon is about seven miles 
from the bridges. Its castle and walls are of the thirteenth 
century and in a good state of preservation. Near the cas- 
tle are the remains of a Roman fort and military station; 
and six miles further on is Conway with its walls and cas- 
tle, both well preserved. 

Leaving Chester by the Royal Oxford route, we first 
come to Shrewsbury, with its ruined castle and walls, and 
its manufactures of thread, yarn, and canvas. Parliaments 
were held here in the thirteenth and fourteenth centuries, 
and there was a battle at Shrewsbury in 1403 between the 
royalist troops and the insurgents under Douglas and Hot- 
spur. The next place of importance is Birmingham, with 
its busy factories, more famous for the quantity and variety 
of their products than for their good qualities. A mere 
list of the articles made here would fill several pages of 
this book. Then we go on to Warwick, a city whose 
origin is almost lost in antiquity, and whose castle is one 
of the best preserved and most interesting in England, in 
spite of its injury by fire a few years ago. Two miles 
away is Leamington, a fashionable summer resort, and, 
following the route of the railway, we come to Reading, 
the scene of important events in the history of England, 
and a miniature Birmingham in the manufacturing line. 
While in the neighborhood we will do well to visit Strat- 
f ord-on-Avon, the birthplace of Shakspeare ; it is thirteen 
miles from Warwick by rail, but only eight miles by the 



POCKET GUIDE FOE, EITKOPE. 29 

carriage-road, and the journey over the latter is praised as 
one of the prettiest in England. If the tourist is in a 
hurry half a day will suffice for the excursion and the 
return to Oxford, whence a trip may be made to Kenil- 
worth Castle (five miles), to Coventry (five miles further), 
and then to Rugby (eleven miles), whence the train can 
be taken for London. 

Much of the architecture of Stratford is of the sixteenth 
and seventeenth centuries, and the tbwn preserves an 
appearance of antiquity that would make it interesting 
even if it lacked the great attraction which has made it 
famous throughout the world. The house where Shaks- 
peare was born is in Henley street, and is kept as nearly 
as possible in the same condition as during his lifetime. 
The house was bought by a public subscription in 1847, 
and became the property of the nation ; since that time it 
has been carefully restored, and many articles that had 
been carried away have been brought back and returned 
to their original places. The room where he was born, as 
well as other rooms of the house, are virtually in the 
same condition as they were three hundred years ago, and 
from present indications they will long remain so. The 
church where his remains and those of his wife are buried 
is on the banks of the Avon, and is reached through a 
beautifully shaded avenue. The exact date of the building 
of the church is not known; the spire was erected in 
1764 to replace the old one, which was in a dangerous 
condition, and the whole edifice was completely renovated 
in 1840. None of the restorations have extended to the 
poet's grave, which has been protected by the inscription 
on the flagstone above it, and similar respect has been 
shown to the remains of his wife and children. Tradition 
says that Shakspeare was educated in the grammar-school 
in the upper part of the old Guildhall, and here it still 



30 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

remains ; the 'present Town Hall, which contains a statue 
of the poet, was founded in 1769, on the occasion of a 
Shakspeare celebration, directed in person by David Gar- 
rick. Other places connected with the life of Shakspeare 
are carefully guarded ; if the visitor has time he will not 
fail to traverse the pretty footpath to Shottery, where 
Shakspeare went to woo Anne Hathaway, and to inspect 
the cottage where that maiden lived. The building seems 
to have undergone very little change in the three centuries 
and more of its existence, but there are whispers that the 
cottage pointed out as the home of Anne was erected 
long after her death. 

Returning to Warwick, and proceeding to Kenilworth, 
we have a view of a castle which has been and still is 
famous in English history. Only a single tower of the 
original structure now exists, but there is an abundance 
of subsequent additions. Part of the great hall of John 
of Gaunt, with its windows and fireplaces, still remains, a 
memorial of the gift of Edward III to a faithful follower. 
Some of the walls are fifteen feet thick, and the first effect 
on the beholder is an impression of the massive solidity 
of the structure. The place is full of historic associa- 
tions; Edward II was a prisoner in Kenilworth Castle, 
and Queen Elizabeth is said to have visited it three times 
while it was occupied by her favorite, the Earl of Leicester. 
Her last visit is described by Scott in his novel of "Kenil- 
worth." It was dismantled by Cromwell, and many of the 
articles of furniture once belonging to it have found their 
way into museums and private collections of antiquities. 
Coventry, near Kenilworth, is noticeable for its contrasts 
between the ancient narrow and ill-paved streets and the 
broad and handsome modern ones. Its name is a corrup- 
tion of Conventre, or " Convent Town," which it derived 
from being the seat of a monastery in 1044; a great part 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 31 

of its fame is due to the heroism of Lady Godiva, which 
Tennyson has described in a poem to which the curious 
are referred. 

Rugby is chiefly famous for its school, founded in 1567 
by a London tradesman who was a native of the town. It 
is the scene of the labors of Dr. Arnold, and has become 
known to the reading world by the story of " Tom Brown's 
School days at Rugby." The town is an important railway 
center, and the "Mugby Junction" of Dickens. 

From Warwick we can go by rail direct to Oxford, on 
the road to London, where a few hours may be well 
employed and a longer visit will not be regretted. Oxford 
is the seat of one of the most important schools of learn- 
ing in the British Isles, and the majority of its students 
can clearly prove that it is entitled to the first place. The 
University was virtually founded about the middle of the 
twelfth century, though history and tradition are somewhat 
obscure in fixing the exact date. It is certain that the 
schools were of considerable importance before they were 
mentioned in any royal edict. At present the University 
comprises twenty colleges and five " halls," and the num- 
ber of students of various classes and grades often exceeds 
ten thousand. The oldest of the colleges is said to repre- 
sent a school founded by King Alfred in 872, and it cele- 
brated its millennial in 1872. The most extensive is 
Christ Church College, both in the magnificence of its 
buildings and the number of its students; the famous 
bell, " Great Tom of Oxford," weighs seventeen thousand 
pounds, and is in the tower over the gateway of this 
college. The Bodleian Library contains over three hun- 
dred thousand printed volumes, together with many thous- 
ands of manuscripts. 

But we are anxious to reach London, and as there is no 
place of importance between Oxford and the capital we 



32 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

will make the fifty-four miles on the train without a halt. 
The traveler is pretty certain to have selected his hotel 
or other place of residence during his stay. The neigh- 
borhood of Charing Cross and Trafalgar Square is pre- 
ferred by many persons, on account of its central position 
and the facility it affords for branching out in all direc- 
tions through London and its suburbs. Hotels are of all 
grades and almost without number. The cost of living at 
a hotel may be as low as six shillings, or it may be ten 
times that figure, according to the character of the house 
and its scale of charges, together with the patron's tastes. 
For a stay of a week it is best to live at a hotel ; but for 
a longer period the tourist whose purse has a bottom is 
recommended to a lodging-house or furnished apartment, 
where he may have a room with breakfast for two or 
three shillings and upwards, and take the rest of his 
meals at restaurants, wherever he happens to find himself 
when the hours for eating arrive. Rooms with full board 
may be had for thirty or forty shillings a week ; but they 
do not allow the same freedom of movement as the hotel 
or furnished apartment.* 

The conveyances in London are cabs, omnibuses, 
tramways, and steam railways, the latter including both 
the underground and daylight routes. 'Familiarity with 
the steam railways is only acquired by considerable study, 
and the stranger who intends patronizing them, especially 
the underground routes, should provide himself with a 
clue-map and pocket-guide containing the desired inform- 
ation. The lines are mostly in tunnels under the houses 

*The limits of this book will not permit anything like a full list of 
hotels, theaters, public buildings, and other matters of interest to the 
stranger in London. He is earnestly advised to purchase Baedecker's 
"Guide to London," which is the best and most complete hand-book 
for the great metropolis that has come under the author's observation. 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 33 

and streets or through open cuttings enclosed in high 
walls. They form an almost complete belt around the 
densest part of London and have many branches to the 
suburbs. The trains run at intervals of about five min- 
utes in the busy part of the day, and of ten or fifteen min- 
utes at other times. The stoppages are very brief, and 
passengers must move promptly in entering or leaving 
the trains. The fares are low, even for the first-class* 
and the service is very prompt. The carriages are lighted 
with gas and constructed on the compartment plan, which 
facilitates their being loaded and unloaded with great 
rapidity. Owing to the underground character of the 
route the scenery is monotonous, and a ride over the line 
for pleasure only is apt to be disappointing. The surface 
lines are more available for reaching the suburbs than for 
traveling in the limits of London. There is a train each 
way between Charing Cross and Cannon street every ten 
minutes, and there are trains every twenty minutes from 
Victoria station to several important stations in the met- 
ropolitan district. Guide-books and time-tables of the 
" high-level " lines are abundant and cheap. 

A favorite mode of seeing London is from the top of an 
omnibus. Get a seat by the driver if possible, and open 
the mouth of that worthy with a cigar or a sixpence. He 
is generally communicative, and proves an excellent 
guide. If you are lodged near Charing Cross, take your 
first ride along The Strand and Fleet street to " the city," 
as the old part of London is called ; and when you have 
done with the Bank and the Exchange "mount an omnibus 
that will take you to Oxford street or to Picadilly. Have 
an omnibus map of the city, with a list of the lines, and 
you may devote a day to this kind of sight-seeing without 
repeating your journeys and at very little expense. Be 
sure and have plenty of small change in your pockets, so 
3 



34 POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 

as to avoid mistakes when paying fares in a hurry. It is 
the custom on most London omnibus routes to pay on 
leaving the vehicle, and not on entering. If the rule is 
otherwise, you will see a placard asking you to " pay on 
entering " ; and in default of such placard the conductor 
will enlighten you. The double row of seats on the top 
of the omnibus is technically known as " the knife-board." 
The upholstery there is of pine or other wood, and alto- 
gether the vehicle is not luxurious. There are more than 
one hundred lines of omnibuses, and they run to all parts 
of London and its suburbs. They are mainly the prop- 
erty of the London General Omnibus Company (Limited), 
and are the outgrowth of a system that had its beginning 
in 1829. 

,Cabs are abundant, there being more than ten thousand 
of them. The most noticeable is the hansom, named for 
its inventor, which has seats for two persons, and can be 
completely inclosed against the rain. The driver is on 
the rear of the vehicle, at the top, and you communicate 
with him through a trap-door over your head. The other 
cab is the "four-wheeler," called also a "growler." It 
has seats for four inside, and a fifth may be accommodated 
by the side of the driver. The hansom carries only light 
baggage, and moves more rapidly than the growler. If 
you are two, or less, with little baggage, you take the 
former, but otherwise you patronize the latter. Unless 
time is specified at starting, your cab-hire will be by dis- 
tance, — a shilling for any distance under two miles, and 
sixpence for each additional mile, with twopence extra 
for every large article carried outside, small baggage 
being free. Sixpence is charged extra for each person 
above two, and no driver is required to go more than six 
miles from the starting point. For every mile or fraction 
of a mile beyond the four-mile radius from Charing Cross 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 35 

one shilling is charged. By time, the rate is two shillings 
and sixpence an hour for a hansom, and two shillings for 
a growler, and the same for every hour additional, by 
fractions of a quarter of an hour. It is well to make a 
bargain before starting, whether you know the fare or 
not, as the drivers often profess ignorance at the end of a 
route, and wind up with extortionate charges. And 
remember that the London driver never has any change 
in his pocket, and unless you can pay him the exact 
amount due, you are pretty certain to be cheated. A map, 
in which London and the suburbs are laid out in half-mile 
squares, may be bought for a penny or two, and will be 
found of great use in determining cab fares. In case of 
serious dispute, call the nearest policeman, or tell the 
driver to take you to a police station. Every driver has 
an authorized book of distances, and is required to pro- 
duce it on demand. 

The London Steamboat Company has numerous boats 
on the river, with forty landing places on the north bank 
and twenty on the south. A guide and time-table is 
issued every month, and sold for a penny. On most of 
the routes the boats run every ten minutes each way, but 
the longer ones are only served half-hourly. The fares 
are from a penny upwards, according to the distance and 
the place on deck, but they are generally doubled on 
Sundays and holidays. The boats, afford an excellent 
opportunity for viewing the sights of the river in good 
weather, and should be preferred to the railway for visit- 
ing Gravesend, Greenwich, Sheerness, and other famous 
places. 

Having learned how to get about in London, we will 
next consider the sights of the British metropolis. These 
are almost without number, and vary according to the 
taste, time, and means of the traveler. Some Americans 



36 POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 

consider London embraced in the Tower and the wax 
works of Madame Tussaud, while others think it includes 
only the British Museum, the National Gallery, and 
Westminster Abbey. We have only sufficient space to 
enumerate the principal or " stock " sights, and refer the 
reader, for fuller details, to the local guide-books. Lon- 
don may be " done " hurriedly and very superficially in 
four or five days ; but it deserves at least a week even for 
a tourist whose time is limited to a three-months' absence 
from America. A fortnight may be profitably spent in 
the great city, and the stranger who sojourns there a 
month will find something new for every day and almost 
every hour of his stay. Fine weather should be utilized 
for out-door excursions and visits to parks, docks, and the 
like, while rainy weather, of which there is an abundance, 
may be reserved for museums, churches, picture galleries, 
and other in-door sights. Nearly everything is closed on 
Sundays, and the churches are inaccessible on week days 
during the hours of service unless the visitor joins in the 
worship. The hours for visiting public buildings are 
changed occasionally, and the stranger will do well to 
consult one of the London papers every morning to ascer- 
tain where and when he will find open doors. A good 
general plan is to visit churches and other public build- 
ings in the forenoon, parks, gardens, and the like in the 
afternoon, and theaters and other night shows in the even- 
ing. The Bank, Post Office, Exchange, and other curios- 
ities of "the city" are best seen in the middle hours of 
the day. 

The following list includes the principal sights which 
every traveler will wish to record in his note-book. 
Understand that the word " daily " does not include Sun- 
days. 

British Museum, daily, from 9 a. m. till 4, 5, or 6 o'clock, 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 37 

according to the season. Opens at noon on Saturdays, 
and during summer remains open till 7 or 8 P. M., Mondays 
and Saturdays. Museum is closed on first seven days 
of February, May, and October for rearrangement of 
exhibits, and is closed on Good Friday, Christmas, and 
Ash Wednesday. 

Westminster Abbey, daily, 9 A. M. till sunset. 

Tower of London, 10 A. M. till 4 p. m. Mondays and 
Saturdays, free, and consequently crowded. Other days, 
one shilling. 

St. Paul's Cathedral, daily, 8 to 6. Principal part of 
the Cathedral is free, but the Whispering, Stone, and 
Golden Galleries, together with the Library, bell, clock, 
and staircase, are not open to the public, and require a 
fee of sixpence. The crypt, containing the tomb of Well- 
ington and other heroes, demands a similar fee, and the 
ball can be entered for one shilling sixpence. Unless the 
weather is fine it is not worth the trouble to climb to the 
Golden Gallery. 

Houses of Parliament, Saturdays. Tickets free on ap- 
plication at the Lord Chamberlain's office in the building. 
If Parliament is in session, a stranger may be admitted 
to the gallery of either House on a member's "order." 
These orders may be bought of the attendants in and 
around the building for two or three shillings. 

Crystal Palace, Sydenham, daily, 10 A. M. till night. 
Usual admission, one shilling. Saturdays, often double, 
and also on special days. 

National Gallery, daily, 10 till 6. Thursdays and Fri- 
days, sixpence; other days free. Do not confound the 
National Gallery with the National Portrait Gallery in 
South • Kensington Museum. The latter is open daily, 
except Friday, from 10 till 4. 

South Kensington Museum, daily, 10 till 6. Mondays, 



38 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Tuesdays, and Saturdays, open till 10 p. m. and free; 
other days, sixpence. 

Zoological Gardens, popularly called " the Zoo," daily, 
admission one shilling. On Sundays, members only ad- 
mitted or strangers on members' orders. 

Alexandra Palace, Muswell Hill, daily, from 10 A. m. 

Hampton Court Gallery, daily, 10 till 6, except Fridays. 

Madame Tussaud's waxworks, daily, 8 A. M. till io 
P. M. and sometimes later. Evening is the best time for 
seeing the show. 

The most interesting churches are St. Paul's and West- 
minster Abbey. The oldest church in London is St. 
Bartholomew's, in West Smithfield, founded about the 
year noo. The scene of the burning of the Smithfield 
martyrs was opposite St. Bartholomew's gate. 

St. Saviour's Church, in Southwark, is worth a visit as 
a fine specimen of early English architecture, though com- 
paratively little of the original work remains. Edmund 
Shakspeare, youngest brother of the poet, is buried here, 
and also Fletcher, well known in literature as the associate 
of Beaumont. 

The Temple Church, sometimes called St. Mary's, is 
within the bounds of the "Inner Temple," not far from 
Temple Bar. There are two sections of the Church, the 
"Round Church" and the "Choir"; the former dates 
from 1 185 and the latter from 1240. The buildings suffered 
so much during the English wars and by the tooth of time 
that they were restored in 1840 at an expense of seventy 
thousand pounds. On a plain slab outside the visitor 
may read, " Here lies Oliver Goldsmith." An inspection 
of the church may be combined with a visit to the Temple 
buildings and gardens. The Temple was originally a lodge 
of the Knights Templar, and became government property 
when that order was dissolved in 131 3. It afterwards fell 



POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 39 

into the possession of the Knights of St. John, who leased 
it to the students of law, and it has been a school of law 
ever since that time. The church is open daily from 10 
till 12 and from i till 4. The Temple gardens were the 
scene of the plucking of the red rose by Somerset and 
the white by Plantagenet, described by Shakspeare in 
Henry VI. 

St. Giles Church, Cripplegate, dates from 1545. Oliver 
Cromwell was married in this church, and John Milton 
lies buried here. 

Bow Church, in Cheapside, contains the famous " Bow 
bells," and is considered one of the best edifices of Sir 
Christopher Wren. 

There are about eight hundred edifices of the Church 
of England in London and the immediate vicinity, and six 
hundred Non-conformist churches. Of the latter, two 
hundred and fifty are Independent, one hundred and sixty 
Wesleyan or Methodist, one hundred and thirty Baptist, 
and fifty Roman Catholic. The visitor who desires to 
attend divine service on Sunday will have no difficulty in 
finding a church adapted to his views. Spurgeon's Taber- 
nacle is on the south bank of the Thames, not far from 
the Elephant and Castle Tavern. The building will ac- 
commodate an audience of five thousand persons, and is 
generally crowded. 

The business portion of the Bank of England is open 
to strangers in the usual banking hours. The interior can 
only be visited on the order of a director or other official, 
and these orders are not easily obtained. Perhaps your 
banker, if you have a good introduction, may facilitate 
your visit to "the Old Lady of Threadneedle Street." 

The Stock Exchange, Royal Exchange, Post-office, Fire 
Monument, Newgate Prison, London Bridge, Guildhall, 
Mansion House, and other famous or interesting struc- 



40 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

tures, in addition to those already mentioned, may all be 
embraced in a four through " the city." 

The stranger should not fail to visit the Thames Em- 
bankment, which extends from Blackfriars' Bridge to 
Westminster. The carriage-way is sixty-four feet wide, and 
there are broad sidewalks on each side, that nearest the 
water being twenty feet across. Near Charing Cross are 
the Embankment Gardens, adorned with statues and beau- 
tifully laid out ; the obelisk known as Cleopatra's Needle 
is near the Adelphi Steps, and there are other ornaments 
at different points. 

London is well provided with parks and pleasure- 
grounds, which are thronged with visitors on fine days. 
Hyde Park, Green Park, and St. James' Park are closely 
connected, so that a single stroll may be taken through 
them all without difficulty. The visit should be so timed 
as to include Hyde Park about six o'clock in the after- 
noon, when the fashion of London takes its airing in 
carriages. Hansoms and growlers are not admitted to 
Hyde Park, and the stranger who wishes to ride with the 
swells must order a conveyance from a stable. Kensington 
Gardens, near Hyde Park, admit no carriages whatever, 
and must be visited on foot. Military bands play there 
occasionally in summer evenings. Regent's Park contains 
the " Zoo " and also the Botanical Gardens ; admission to 
the latter is by an order from a member of the Botanical 
Society or a judiciously-applied bribe to the gate-keeper. 
Victoria Park is in the northeastern part of London and 
quite modern in character. One of its curiosities is the 
drinking-fountain presented by Miss Burdett Coutts. The 
other most noteworthy pleasure grounds are Finsbury 
Park, Battersea Park, Kensington Park, and Southwark 
Park, but they may all be omitted from the programme of 
visits if the tourist is in a hurry. 



CHAPTER IV. 

ENVIRONS OF LONDON.— CATHEDRAL CITIES. 
—LONDON TO PARIS. 

There are many points of interest in the neighborhood 
of London, and the stranger will never be at a loss for an 
excursion if the weather is favorable. Some of the sub- 
urban trips may be made in a few hours, while others will 
consume the entire day. 

A very interesting excursion is from London Bridge by 
steamboat down the river to Gravesend, a run of three 
hours or less, returning by the North Kent Railway or by 
the London, Chatham & Dover line. If Chatham, Cob- 
ham Hall, and Rochester are included, an entire day will 
be consumed. Descending the river we pass the Monu- 
ment, Billingsgate, Custom-House, Tower, St. Katherine's 
Docks, London Docks, Wapping, Surrey Docks, Dept- 
ford, Greenwich Docks and Hospital, Isle of Dogs (where 
the Great Eastern was built), Victoria Docks, and Wool- 
wich. Below Woolwich the banks of the Thames are less 
interesting on account of their flatness and the disappear- 
ance of the great warehouses and other buildings, but 
there is quite enough to hold the attention of the stranger. 
We see the magazines of Purfleet, where sixty thousand 
barrels of powder have been stored at one time, and 
soon after we stop at Greenhithe, with its training-ships 
and frequently with a fleet of yachts and pleasure-boats 
anchored near the shore. Passing Northfleet and Tilbury 
Fort, we are soon at Gravesend, a town of twenty-five 

(41) 



42 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

thousand inhabitants and an important place of resort for 
London pleasure seekers. 

There is an abundance of restaurants, music pavilions, 
archery grounds, dancing platforms, and other entertain- 
ments such as- the Londoner is inclined to patronize. 
From Gravesend to Rochester and Chatham is a ride or 
walk of seven miles; the two places form practically a 
single town, as they are on opposite sides of the Medway 
and connected by bridges. The Castle and Cathedral are 
the principal attractions of Rochester, the former dating 
from 1 126 and the latter from 1077 and restored in 1840. 
The Naval and Military Station is the principal attraction 
of Chatham ; the dock-yards are of vast extent, employ- 
ing three thousand workmen; foreigners cannot obtain 
admission except through their ambassador. A fine view 
may be obtained of their exterior by means of a row-boat 
on the river from the bridge to Upnor Castle, about three 
miles. 

Another river excursion is to Greenwich and Woolwich, 
the latter famous for its Arsenal and the former for its 
Hospital and Observatory, and (not the least in the 
thoughts of the epicure) its dinners of whitebait. Wool- 
wich Arsenal may be seen on Tuesdays and Thursdays, 
between 10 and 12 and from 2 till 4. Foreigners must 
obtain tickets through their Legations. The Arsenal is 
nine miles from London ; it employs ten thousand men and 
covers an area of one hundred acres. Near by are the 
Royal Marine Barracks and the Royal Artillery Barracks, 
both quite extensive, and the Royal Military Academy is 
not far away. 

Greenwich is three miles nearer London than Woolwich, 
and may be reached every twenty minutes by trains from 
Charing Cross or by steamboat every half hour. The 
Hospital is on the site of a royal palace of the fifteenth 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 43 

century; it has about four hundred inmates, and gives out- 
door pensions to about three thousand sailors. Green- 
wich Park covers one hundred and seventy acres, and 
contains the famous Observatory which gives the hour of 
the day to all England and the base of nautical calcula- 
tions for the whole world. The stranger will not fail to 
set his watch by "the hour of Greenwich." Whitebait 
should be eaten at The Ship Tavern or else at the Trafal- 
gar Hotel ; it is a small fish about an inch long and justly 
esteemed a great delicacy. If the stranger can secure an 
invitation to one of the ministerial banquets at Greenwich, 
at the close of the annual session of Parliament, he would 
be injudicious to decline it. Such a dinner surpasses Sam 
Weller's " veal pie " in its " filling " capacities. 

Lovers of the fine arts will not forget Dulwich and its 
collection of works by the old masters. Trains in twenty 
to twenty-five minutes from Ludgate Hill or Victoria 
Station; the scenery around Dulwich is pretty and the 
ride and walk will not be regretted. The gallery contains 
paintings by Velasquez, Murillo, N. Poussin, Watteau, 
Cupp, Wouvermann, Rembrandt, Rubens, Van Dyck, 
Teniers the elder, and Teniers the younger. There are 
also pictures by Gainsborough, Van Ostade, Gerard Dow, 
Salvator Rosa, Andrea del Sarto, Paul Veronese, Guido 
Reni, and many other famous artists. An entire day will 
scarcely suffice for the tour of the gallery. 

Hampton Court, Kew, and Richmond may be visited in 
a single excursion, and those who do not go to church on 
Sunday are reminded that the palace and gallery at Hamp- 
ton are open on the first day of the week, from 2 till 6 
P. m., and the gardens can be seen from morning till 
sunset. If the tide permits we can go by steamboat in 
two hours ; otherwise by rail. Perhaps the best plan is 
to go by rail to Hampton Court from Waterloo Station, 



44 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

walk through the court and gardens and Bushy Park to 
Teddington Station, then go by train to Richmond, and 
from there to Kew by omnibus. Visit the famous Botanic 
Gardens' at Kew, and return to London by steamboat, 
omnibus, or railway. If we return by river we shall 
pass Mortlake, Chiswick, Hammersmith, Putney, Fulham, 
Wandsworth, and Chelsea, and if we go by water from 
Kew to Hampton Court we have a glimpse of Isleworth, 
Richmond, Twickenham, and Kingston. Many pretty 
villas adorn the banks on both sides of the stream, which 
is here so small that we can hardly realize the importance 
of the Thames as the center of the commerce of the 
world. 

A pleasant excursion may be made to Windsor by Great 
Western Railway from Paddington Station, or by South- 
western Railway from Waterloo Station. The distance is 
twenty-one miles by the former, and twenty-five by the 
latter route. The station is about half a mile from the 
Castle, which is partially open to the public at all times. 
Visitors are admitted to the Eastern Terrace on Saturdays 
and Sundays, when the Queen is absent, and to the 
State apartments on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and 
Fridays, from n till 4, also when Her Majesty is away. 
Tickets at any bookseller's shop in Windsor. The private 
apartments are not shown. The Castle is one of the 
largest and finest royal residences in the world; it was 
founded by William the Conqueror, but nothing remains 
at present of the original structure. Extensive restora- 
tions were begun by George IV, arid completed during the 
reign of Victoria at a cost of nearly a million pounds 
sterling. The Castle is in two wards or sections, with 
courts in the center of each ; between them is the Round 
Tower, which was formerly a prison, and is surrounded 
by a deep ditch. From the summit there is a magnificent 



POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 45 

view of the country around Windsor, and it is said that 
twelve counties can be seen in a clear day. There is 
a bell in the tower which was brought from Sebastopol at 
the close of the Crimean war. Albert Chapel and St. 
George's' Chapel are fine specimens of church architecture, 
and contain tombs of several, members of the present and 
past royal families. The Home Park, about four miles 
in circumference, is to the north and east of Windsor, 
the Great Park, embracing eighteen hundred acres, is to 
the south of Windsor, and contains the Long Walk, a 
promenade of nearly three miles in a straight line from 
George IV's gateway to Snow Hill. From the end of the 
Long Walk is a road to Virginia Water, an artificial lake, 
with many pretty views in its vicinity. 

Eton, with its famous college, is about half a mile from 
Windsor. The college has about a thousand students, a 
few living in the buildings, but the great majority with the 
masters or in boarding-houses under the control of the 
establishment. The school was founded in 1440 by 
Henry VI. 

Epping Forest may be reached in one hour by the Great 
Eastern Railway to Loughton Station, whence there is a 
pleasant walk of five miles through the forest to Waltham 
Abbey. From the Abbey go by rail to Rye Flouse, which 
has extensive pleasure-grounds, and is historically inter- 
esting as the scene of the famous " Rye House Plot " in 
1683,, for the assassination of Charles II. 

Pleasant excursions may be made by stage-coach to 
Brighton, Bromley, Dorking, Seven Oaks, St. Albans, 
Windsor, and other places, during the summer months. 
Most of the coaches start from the White Horse Cellar 
in Picadilly about ten A. M., and it is necessary to secure 
seats in advance on most of the lines. Most of the vehi- 
cles are driven by the gentlemen who own them, and the 



46 POCKET GUIDE FOB ETJKOPe! 

service is excellent throughout. A ride on one of these 
coaches is to be recommended in fine weather only, and a 
seat on the box is preferable to any other. The system is, as 
nearly as possible, a revival of the old coaching business 
of England before the days of the railway, and includes 
the invariable shilling to the driver, even though he be of 
noble blood. . 

For the benefit of those who have plenty of time to 
devote to England, we will briefly sketch some of the 
points not included in our sight-seeing thus far. Return- 
ing to the frontier of Scotland, we will take the train 
from Melrose Abbey for Newcastle-on-Tyne, a very old 
town which contained several monasteries and derives its 
name from the new castle erected soon after the Norman 
Conquest. Its commerce at the present day overshadows 
its' ancient renown, and the stranger will realize the ab- 
surdity of " carrying coals to Newcastle," when he sees 
the extent of the coal trade of this important port. The 
town contains numerous factories, and, when the air is 
damp, it is filled with particles of soot from the furnaces 
and the sky is darkened by great clouds of smoke. Por- 
tions of the castle are preserved, and there are many 
modern buildings of imposing architecture. Don't fail to 
look at the railway bridge, which is considered one of the 
masterpieces of George Stephenson. 

Fourteen miles from Newcastle, on the road to Lon- 
don, we come to Durham, famous for its castle and cathe- 
dral, standing side by side on the summit of a hill. The 
former dates from 1072, and the latter from twenty years 
later. The castle has been converted into a university, 
and thus made of practical use, and the cathedral has 
been well preserved against the ravages of time. It is 
one of the finest church edifices in England, and deserves 
a careful and leisurely visit**. The situation is admirable, 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 47 

and there are a dozen points at least in and around Dur- 
ham from which the church presents an imposing appear- 
ance. ' 

With the picture of Durham Cathedral photographed 
on our memory we proceed to York, which has a history 
dating from the Roman invasion. Hadrian and other 
rulers lived for a time at York, and there is a belief 
among many historians that it was the birthplace of Con- 
stantine the Great. The ancient walls are in a good state 
of preservation, and parts of them are said to date from 
the time of the Romans. York Minster, or Cathedral, is 
a magnificent structure, being five hundred and forty-two 
feet long and two hundred and fifty feet wide across the 
transepts, and its central tower is two hundred and thir- 
teen feet high. A church was founded here by the Sax- 
ons in the sixth century, but was removed a hundred years 
later to make way for a larger one, which was burned in 
741. Then another church rose, which followed its pre* 
decessor's fate in the eleventh century, and was succeeded 
by another about A. D. 1100. Since that time there have 
been many alterations and "restorations," so that very 
little remains of the original structure. The Cathedral 
in its present form is the work of several centuries, and 
the student of architecture can easily make out the con- 
structions of different periods. The windows of stained 
glass are among the finest in England. One that was 
made in the fourteenth century has been pronounced the 
best in the world, and it certainly has few if any superiors. 
York Castle was built in 106S, but there is only a single 
tower remaining from that date. The building is now 
used as a prison. The antiquarian will find in the Gar- 
dens of the Philosophical Society an interesting study. 
He will see remains from the Roman, Saxon, and Norman 
periods and may compare them with early English archi- 



48 POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 

tecture in St. Mary's Abbey, whose ruins are close to the 
walls. - 

Turning from antiquity to manufacturing interests, we 
will go to Leeds, Bradford, Saltaire, and Sheffield, which 
may be embraced in a single tour, with York as a starting 
point, or a journey may be made there from London. 
Leeds is thirty-two miles from York, Bradford is ten miles 
from Leeds, and Saltaire four miles from Bradfoii. Leeds 
has important industries in woolen manufactures, flax- 
spinning and weaving, worsted and silk manufacture, and 
also in productions of leather, glass, and other goods. 
More than fifty thousand persons are employed in these 
industries, and the streets and public buildings indicate 
the prosperity of the place. Tuesdays and Saturdays are 
the market days. The stranger should not fail to see the 
cloth halls on market days if possible, and if he can secure 
the privilege of going through one of the large factories 
he will have something to remember. Bradford is much 
like Leeds in a general way, its particular industry being 
the manufacture of worsted goods. St. Peter's church is 
old and interesting. Saltaire is interesting from having 
been built by one man, the late Titus Salt. It is a model 
town, with a church, schools, public library, reading-room, 
gymnasium, play-grounds, etc., and there is a single fac- 
tory covering twelve acres of ground and employing three 
thousand persons. 

Sheffield is thirty-three miles from Leeds, and is well 
known for its manufacture of cutlery. It was declared a 
market town in the thirteenth century, and became noted 
for its cutlery work more than three centuries ago. Its 
present population is about three hundred thousand, and 
its manufactures include all sorts of plated goods, brass, 
copper, and other things, in addition to cutlery and edge 
tools. The process of silver-plating and the substance 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 49 

known as Britannia metal were invented at Sheffield. 
Newstead Abbey, where the Byron family once lived, is 
about twenty-five miles from Sheffield. The tourist may 
pass through Nottingham on his way there, and have a 
glimpse of the lace manufacture. Afterwards he may 
proceed to Lincoln, where extensive Roman remains mav 
be seen and also the cathedral, one of the finest existing 
examples of early English architecture. An hour's ride 
by rail will carry him to Boston, which was originally 
Botolph's town, from being the site of the monastery of 
St. Botolph, destroyed more than one thousand years ago. 
St. Botolph's church was built in 1309, and has a tower 
three hundred feet high. 

If we thirst for more cathedrals we may visit Peter- 
borough and Ely, where the sacred edifices rank among 
the best of their class, and are so extensive that any 
description we could make in our limited space would be 
unworthy of the subject. Other cathedral cities and 
towns of note are Canterbury, Lichfield, Salisbury, Nor- 
wich, Winchester, Exeter, Manchester, and Bristol. Per- 
haps the most important of these is Canterbury, sixty 
miles from London, on the road to Dover by the London, 
Chatham, & Dover railway. The town also contains St. 
Martin's church, which is said to be the oldest church in 
England. It dates from the second century, and parts of 
its walls are of Roman bricks. 

From London to the continent there are several routes. 
Travelers destined for Paris will go by Dover and Calais, 
or by Boulogne and Folkestone in ten to eleven hours, the 
passage across the Channel being twenty-one miles by the 
first route and twenty-eight by the second. The fares by 
Dover and Calais are sixty shillings first-class and forty- 
five shillings second-class, by Boulogne and Folkestone 
fifty-six shillings and forty-two shillings. A cheaper route 
4 



50 POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 

is by New Haven and Dieppe, thirty-three shillings and 
twenty-four shillings, but the sea passage of sixty-four 
miles requires about five and one-half hours, and the 
whole journey fourteen hours. By the Dieppe route one 
may visit Brighton, famous as a watering-place and pos- 
sessing the finest aquarium in the world, and he can also 
break the journey at Rouen, one of the most interesting 
cities of Normandy. Tickets good for seven days. 
Another route Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays is by 
Southampton and Havre, thirty-three shillings and twen- 
ty-four shillings, with tickets good four days ; sea passage 
nine hours, and entire journey sixteen to twenty hours. 

Other routes to the continent are by Dover and Ostend, 
five hours, sea ; Queenborough to Flushing, Holland, five 
hours, sea; Harwich to Rotterdam, thirteen hours, sea 
and river ; London to Antwerp, sixteen hours, sea and 
river ; and London to Hamburg or Bremen in thirty-five 
to forty hours, by water. There are steamers for most of 
the ports of Germany, Holland, Belgium, and Norway, 
and also for the Russian ports of the Baltic. For time- 
tables, fares, etc., consult Bradshaw's Continental Rail- 
way and Steamship Guide, issued monthly, and contain- 
ing a vast amount of information indispensable to the 
traveler. Get the edition for three shillings and sixpence, 
rather than the cheaper one at two shillings, as the addi- 
tional matter more than compensates the difference in 
price. In France, get Chaix's " Indicateur des chemins 
de Fer," in Germany Hendschel's " Telegraph," and in 
Switzerland the " Cursbuch " or " Telegraph," either of 
which is reliable. Spain, Italy, and Russia have railway 
guides of their own ; but if only a condensed time-table 
is wanted Bradshaw will be sufficient. 

Going from London to Paris by the route first named, 
the traveler may stop a few hours at Dover, which lies in 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 51 

a deep valley enclosed between cliffs of chalk. Formerly 
the harbor was of no great consequence, but it has been 
much improved by the government, and has a large busi- 
ness. The castle is more than a mile from the town, and 
has an enclosure of nearly forty acres. It was founded 
by the Romans, but the principal parts of the walls are 
from the Saxon and Norman periods, together with a 
goodly portion of more modern character. Inside the 
castle is a Roman watch-tower, which is considered one 
of the oldest pieces of masonry in England. There is 
little of interest in the town itself. 

In Calais there is nothing to detain the traveler beyond 
the formalities of the custom house. The railway carries 
him to Boulogne, which he also reaches by the second 
route on our list. One of the first objects to catch the 
eye is the monument erected on the heights to commem- 
orate Napoleon's projected invasion of England. Bou- 
logne contains a modern cathedral, a statue or two, a 
museum, and an old chateau dating from the thirteenth 
century. The most interesting scene for the stranger is 
the fish-market, which is held every morning on the quay. 
The fishermen and their wives comprise a tenth of the 
population of Boulogne, and adhere rigidly to the cos- 
tumes worn by their ancestors through many generations. 

About half way from Boulogne to Paris we come to 
Amiens, which was formerly the capital of Picardy and is 
an important manufacturing town, its products being prin- 
cipally textile fabrics. The only object of interest is the 
cathedral, which dates from the thirteenth century, and is 
one of the most imposing of the Gothic churches of 
Europe. It is nearly five hundred feet long, and its cen- 
tral spire is three hundred and ninety-two feet high. The 
facade and interior are richly adorned with sculpture, and 
there is a fine rose window thirty-eight feet in diameter. 



52 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

If we go from London to Paris by way of Southamp- 
ton and Havre, it would be well to take an early train 
from London, so as to have a few hours before embark- 
ing on the steamer. Southampton is a busy port, with 
lines of steamships to many parts of the world, and is the 
point of departure for the Isle of Wight, which is famous 
as a pleasure resort of the English and contains many 
beautiful residences. For two hours after leaving South- 
ampton the steamer is under the shelter of this island, 
and then pushes out into the channel. The departure 
from Southampton is always at night, and when the trav- 
eler rises in the morning he is in front of the lighthouses 
and cliffs of St. Adresse, while beyond them are the 
masts and chimneys that indicate the port of Havre. 
Havre is worth a day's visit, though it rarely gets it ; and 
the traveler who can spare the time and intends to see 
Rouen on his way to the capital will do well to remain at 
Havre through the day, to see L the docks and the busy 
streets and take a drive to St. Adresse and Ingouville. 
Take the train at five p. m. for Rouen (two hours), sleep 
in the ancient capital of Normandy, devote the forenoon 
to its sights, and then go by an afternoon train to Paris. 
Rouen has important manufactures, principally of cotton, 
and it has been styled the Manchester of France. The 
principal buildings are the cathedral, a grand old edifice 
of the thirteenth century, which receives warm praise 
from lovers of Gothic architecture, the churches of St. 
Maclou and St. Ouen (the latter often pronounced supe- 
rior to the cathedral), the Hotel de Ville, the Palais de 
Justice, and the monument in the Place de la Pucelle, 
Where Joan of Arc was burned at the stake in 1431. The 
monument is of no consequence except to mark the spot 
where the heroine suffered martyrdom. An important 
industry of Rouen is the conversion of Spanish white 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 53 

wines of the lowest grades into Bordeaux wine by the 
addition of logwood and other coloring matter. Of late 
years Rouen has developed considerable shipping inter- 
ests with the United States, and many vessels go there 
with cargoes of grain. Those who have plenty of time 
may make the voyage by river between Havre and Rouen. 
Steamboats run daily each way, and the scenery is pic- 
turesque. 

Dieppe has but little commerce, and its chief reliance 
is on fishing and on the throng of fashionable visitors in 
summer. The beach consists of stones of various sizes, 
so that a barefoot promenade is out of the question. 
There is a casino with music in the visiting period, and 
the bathing establishment is extensive and well arranged. 
On a cliff near the town is the castle, built in 1433, and a 
visit there may be combined with a pleasant drive to the 
ruined castle of Arques, four miles distant, which was the 
scene of the victory of Henry IV in 1 589. 



CHAPTER V. 

PARIS AND ITS ENVIRONS. 

We are in the gay capital of France and the center of 
the world of fashion. Our remarks as to the time neces- 
sary for seeing London will apply to Paris, as the city is 
of great extent and antiquity and contains a vast number 
of objects of interest. A day in Paris is better than no 
day there at all, a week will allow the. traveler to make 
a superficial view of the city, a month may be spent 
there profitably, and three or four months need not be 
wasted. Every tourist will suit his own taste in selecting 
the objects of the greatest interest. Our limited space 
will not permit anything like a detailed description, and 
we advise the early purchase of Baedeker's Guide to 
Paris, and its careful perusal. Galignani and Murray have 
excellent guides, and there is also a good one published by 
Hachette & Company, but for all practical purposes 
Baedeker is the best. 

Expenses in Paris may be almost anything you choose 
to make them. You can get much for a franc or very 
little for a napoleon. Hotels are of all grades, from 
dearest to cheapest ; and if you cannot afford a hotel you 
may take lodgings at a very small outlay. But the cheap- 
est quarters can hardly be found or endured by one who 
is ignorant of the language ; and the American stranger 
must make up his mind to pay from two francs a day 
upwards for his lodgings and four or five francs for his 
food. There are many cheap hotels and pensions (board- 

(54) 



POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 55 

ing-houses), where rooms and board may be had from five 
francs a day upwards ; the cheapest mode of living in 
Paris is en pension, but it is inconvenient for a traveler, as 
the hour of dinner often finds him a long way from home, 
and he must either lose valuable time in returning, buy 
his meal at a restaurant, or go dinnerless and hungry. 
The best plan for a tourist with a thinly-lined purse is to 
take a cheap room at a cheap hotel, and pick up his meals 
wherever he happens to be when his time comes to eat, 
being careful to keep out of the high-priced restaurants. 
The restaurants at fixed price, where breakfast may be 
had for one to two francs, and dinner for double those 
figures, will attract the stranger; and he will also find 
comfort in the Duval establishments, where food is cheap 
and of excellent quality, and served from a bill of fare that 
leaves no chance for mistakes. 

The bloated bondholder will eschew Duval and similar 
restaurants and betake himself to the Cafe Riche, Cafe 
Anglais, Cafe Helder, Restaurant Brebant, Restaurant 
Durand, and similar establishments where the character 
and extent of a dinner are limited only by the price you 
are willing to pay. Restaurants of moderate pretensions 
and excellent cuisine are numerous. Among them are 
Vian's in Rue Daunou, Tavernier, Boulevard des Capu- 
cines, Rougemont, Boulevard Poissoniere, Morel, Rue- 
Favart, Marguery, Boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle, and Bon- 
valet, Boulevard du Temple. Whether you patronize a 
cheap, moderate, or dear establishment, the waiter expects 
a fee on the settlement of your account. The old rule 
was to give a sou to the waiter for each franc of the bill ; 
but the modern custom is to give about half as much 
more, especially if the bill is a small one. Sometimes the 
waiter turns his nose in the air at the smallness of his 
gratuity, but no heed should be paid to his action, and 



56 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

you may be reasonably certain that he would be dissatis- 
fied if you reversed the custom, and gave him a franc for 
each sou of the cost of your dinner. 

Cabs in Paris are hired by the course or the hour. If 
nothing is said at the time of starting the course is under- 
stood. If you want a cab by time show your watch and 
say, " a Vheiire" if you can muster courage to pronounce 
the word. The fares are on a printed slip, which the driver 
is bound by law to give you when you engage him, and it 
also contains his number ; in case of dispute apply to a 
policeman or drive to the nearest police station. Like, his 
kindred all the world over the Paris cocher will generally 
cheat you if he can, and the stranger should keep his eyes 
open. The fares change every year or two ; the last were 
one> franc eighty centimes for a course, and two francs 
twenty-five centimes an hour, for two persons from sunrise 
till midnight, and an addition of about one-third be- 
tween midnight and sunrise. Cabs for four persons are 
fifty per cent, dearer than the smaller ones, and the rate 
for all carriages is augmented a fourth or a third when the 
hirer goes beyond the fortifications. In hiring ^by time 
the first hour must be paid for entire, but subsequent time 
may be in periods of five minutes. Cabs of the Urbaine 
Company are generally better than the others, though at 
the same price ; their drivers wear light uniforms and the 
carriages are upholstered in white cloth. The driver is 
entitled to a gratuity of not less than five sous on the 
course or six sous an hour, and he is also entitled to five 
"sous for each piece of baggage carried on the top of his 
Vehicle. Small articles inside are free. Voitures de remise 
may be hired from a stable or ordered at the hotel, and 
will cost from twenty-five to fifty francs a day according 
to their character and the hours of service. Fifty francs 
will secure a turnout of irreproachable style with a driver 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 57 

and footman in livery, and an extra five francs will cause 
the occupant to be addressed as " My Lord," or " Voire 
Altesse" at frequent intervals. 

There are thirty-two omnibus lines, all belonging to one 
company ; the routes form a perfect network, and it is not 
an easy matter to become familiar with them. They are 
so arranged that almost any part of Paris may be reached 
by omnibus, and the Philadelphian is reminded of the 
street-car system of his native city. If the omnibus you 
enter does not carry you to your destination, you ask for 
a " correspondance" which is given without extra charge. 
At the proper station you leave the vehicle and mount 
another that takes you where you wish to go ; sometimes 
you must take a third omnibus, but in this event your fare 
must be paid over again. At the stations the clerk gives 
out numbers in the order of application, so that everybody 
takes his turn at the hours when there is a rush. When 
all seats are taken a little sign is displayed bearing the 
word " complet " (full), and when it is in sight no other 
passengers are admitted. The fares are six sous for the 
interior and three for the top, but a top passenger must 
pay six sous if he wants a " correspondance? The drivers 
are disinclined to stop between stations to pick up passen- 
gers ; they sometimes but not always do so for a woman, 
but the masculine patron must take his chances and jump 
to the. rear step while the vehicle is in motion. Any one 
who intends going around by omnibus should buy an 
" Itineraire des Omnibus'''' for twenty centimes and study 
it carefully. There is no finer omnibus system in the 
world than that of Paris, and the magnificent horses rouse 
the admiration of the New Yorker who thinks of the 
wretched skeletons used on the lines of the American 
metropolis. 

Small steamers ply on the Seine at frequent intervals 



58 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

and low fares, and furnish an excellent means for reaching 
the suburbs. The shorter routes are served every ten or 
fifteen minutes, and the longer ones at intervals of rarely 
more than half an hour. On Sunday and fete days the 
boats are liable to be uncomfortably crowded, and the 
fares are generally higher than on ordinary occasions. 
The railways entering Paris belong to five great companies 
and start from eight different stations. Numerous sub- 
urban excursions may be made over these lines, and the 
Chemin de Fer de Ceinture (Belt Railway) which encircles 
Paris is operated by all the companies together. The tour 
around the city by the Belt Railway may be made in about 
two hours from any of the terminal stations. There are 
tramways starting from several points in the city for 
Vincennes, Versailles, and other places, and a ride on one 
of the tramway carriages is by no means to be despised. 

We will give a list of the principal sights of Paris and 
leave the details to be drawn from the local guide-books. 
No list can be made that will be satisfactory to each and 
every traveler; much will depend upon the time at the 
stranger's disposal and much more upon his tastes, habits, 
and purse. He may bear in mind the advice to the child 
in the menagerie who wished to know which were the 
monkeys and which the hyenas, " You pays your money 
and you takes your choice." Most of the public buildings 
are open only from 10 till 4 o'clock, and consequently one's 
plans should be made for seeing churches, cemeteries, and 
parks in the morning or late afternoon,, museums and 
galleries in the middle of the day, and theaters and other 
places of entertainment at night. From 4 to 7 o'clock is 
the best time for a stroll along the boulevards or a drive 
through the Champs Elysees and Bois du Boulogne. The 
Halles Centrales should be seen as early as possible in the 
morning, when the vast quantities of provisions for feeding 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 59 

the French metropolis are being distributed; and the 
Halle au Ble (Corn Market) and Halle dux Vins (Wine 
Market) may be visited later in the day. The Halle aux 
Vins is close to the Jardin des Plantes, so that both may 
be " done " at the same time. Most of the collections of 
pictures and antiquities are closed on Monday. 

The principal picture galleries are the Louvre and the 
Luxembourg, each in the palace whose name it bears. 
There is also a fine collection at the Ecole des Beaux-Arts. 

For antiquities, see the Louvre, the National Library, 
and the Musie des Thermes, better known as the Cluny 
Museum. The latter is on the site of an ancient Roman 
bath, a part of which is yet in existence, and is credited to 
the Emperor Constantius Chlorus. 

The most important churches are Notre Dame, St. 
Germain L'Auxerrois, St. Eustache, St. Roche, the Made- 
laine, the Pantheon, the Sainte Chapelle, Notre Dame de 
Lorette, St. Sulpice, La Trinite, St. Augustin, and St. 
Vincent de Paul. Among modern churches the Madelaine 
is pronounced the finest. The Russian Church is a beau- 
tiful structure, and specially deserves the attention of those 
Who are unable to extend their travels to the land of the 
Czar. Notre Dame dates from the twelfth century, but 
was not completed till the thirteenth. It has been con- 
siderably altered and restored, and has suffered somewhat 
during the civil wars of the country ; among the relics pre- 
served here are two thorns from the Saviour's crown, the 
'spear which pierced his side, a piece of the wood of The 
Cross, besides many reliquaries and sacred vestments. 
The Church is one hundred and thirty-nine yards long by 
fifty-two wide, and the magnificent facade is two hundred 
and twenty feet high. A fine view of the city is to be had 
from the summit of the towers. 

The Pantheon, also called the Church of St. Genevieve, 



60 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

is on the south side of the Seine, and has been three times 
a church and fwice a Pantheon or " Temple of Fame." 
Mirabeau, Voltaire, Marat, and Rousseau were buried 
there, and their tombs are to be seen in the vaults below 
the church. On the pediment is a group representing 
France distributing garlands to her favorite sons," including 
generals, artists, authors, physicians, and others. Several 
of the tombs are unoccupied ; the remains of Voltaire and 
Rousseau were removed secretly, those of Mirabeau were 
transferred to the Cemetery of Pere Lachaise, and those 
of Marat cast into the sewers. In the vaults there is a 
remarkable echo, where a faint whisper develops into a 
loud voice. 

The Hotel des Invalides with its church may be seen 
daily. The tomb of Napoleon is in the church, which 
contains numerous battle-flags from historic fields. Mili- 
tary mass is at noon on Sundays, followed by a parade of 
the invalided soldiers. 

The Grand Opera House, on the Place de l'Opera, is 
the finest building of its kind in the world. An hour 
may be well employed in a study of the exterior. The 
interior should be seen at night ; and if the stranger 
makes but a single visit he will be more interested with 
the edifice and its adornments than with the performance. 

The Bourse, or Stock Exchange, is a fine building sur- 
rounded by a Corinthian portico. Visitors are admitted 
to the gallery, whence they may, without danger, survey 
the scene of apparent lunacy below. 

The Tour de St. Jacques, on the Rue de Rivoli, formerly 
belonged to a church which was pulled down in 1789. 
The tower dates from the early part of the sixteenth cen- 
tury, and is greatly admired by students of architecture. 
It is almost in the center of the city, and affords one of 
the finest views of Paris. According to some authorities 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 61 

the signal for the massacre of the Huguenots on St. Bar- 
tholomew's eve was given from the tower of St. Jacques. 

The Hotel des Monnaies, or Mint, contains a magnificent 
collection of coins open to the public. The process of 
coining may be witnessed on Tuesdays and Fridays by 
ticket previously obtained from the director. 

The Palace of the Tuileries is in process of restoration, 
and is not open to the public. The gardens of the Tuiler- 
ies are seven hundred and eighty yards long by three hun- 
dred and forty-seven in width, and form a popular resort 
of Parisians. A pleasant walk may be taken through the 
gardens to the Place de La Concorde, the finest square of 
the kind in existence, and from the opposite side of the 
square to the Champs Elysees. In the center of the 
square is the obelisk of Luxor, and from the foot of the 
obelisk a view may be obtained of the Madelaine, the 
Palais Bourbon (now Palais du Corps Legislatif), the Tuil- 
eries, and the Arc de Triomphe de VEtoile. The view by 
night is no less striking than by day, especially on festive 
occasions, when the whole square and its vicinity are in a 
blaze of gaslight. Louis XVI died by the guillotine on 
the side of the square nearest the Tuileries ; and so did 
Charlotte Corday, Marie Antoinette, and others whose 
names are known in history. In little more than two 
years from the 21st of January, 1793, ^ * s sa ^ tnat above 
two thousand and eight hundred persons perished here by 
the guillotine. It was wisely determined not to mark the 
spot by a monument. 

From the Place de la Concorde ascend the Avenue des 
Champs Elysees. The abundance of shade-trees and the 
extent of the graveled walks can hardly fail to impress the 
visitor. The promenade is one of the most popular in 
Paris, and on pleasant afternoons it is sure to be filled 
with people. The distance from the square to the Arc de 



62 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Triomphe is about an English mile. In ascending we pass 
the Palais de F Industrie, where the great exhibition of. 
1855 was held, and which has had intimate relations with 
other World's Fairs at Paris. The gardens terminate at 
the Rond Point, a circular space with a fountain in the cen-; 
ter ; and from there to the arch the avenue is bordered by- 
handsome buildings. The arch is the largest structure of 
its kind in the world, and stands on an eminence that ren- 
ders it visible from nearly all parts of Paris, and also from 
the environs. Twelve avenues or boulevards radiate from 
its base, and some of the finest private residences of Paris 
are in the immediate vicinity of the arch. It was erected 
to commemorate the victories of Napoleon I, and is 
adorned with sculptures illustrating those events. There 
are also the names of famous battles in which the French 
were victorious, and there is a list of generals who fell in 
defence of France or in aggression upon her enemies. 
The arch is one hundred and sixty feet high, and a view 
from its summit repays an hundred-fold the labor of the 
ascent. 

From the base of the arch follow the Aventie de Bois de 
Boulogne to the fortifications, and then enter the famous 
park of Paris, the Bois de Boulogne. Once it was a for- 
est where the kings went to hunt for game, then it became 
a haunt of robbers and a resort for duellists, and subse- 
quently was converted into a pleasure resort. It contains 
two thousand two hundred and fifty acres of ground, 
and includes artificial lakes, a cascade, several restaurants, 
the Jardin d ' Acclimatatio7t, numerous walks and drives, 
and several groves designed for the use of picnic parties. 
The best way to see it is to engage a carriage by time and 
spend two or three hours in the park. (Avoid the Restate- 
rant du Cascade unless your purse is inexhaustible.) The 
Jardin d'Acclimatation should not be neglected. It con- 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 63 

tains a fine collection of animals useful to man, and 
includes elephants, camels, ostriches, and other strange 
things. No ferocious animals are maintained here, that 
honor being retained for the Jar din des Plantes. During 
the siege of Paris by the Germans nearly all the animals 
were, killed and eaten ; but the garden has been re-stocked, 
and is now as attractive as ever. Adjoining the Bois de 
Boulogne is the race track of Longchamps ; and if the 
stranger happens in Paris at the time of the great races of 
the year he should not fail to " take them in." 

Beyond the Bois de Boulogne is the park of St. Cloud, 
with the ruins of the palace which had an intimate con- 
nection with the reign of Napoleon III. Sevres and 
Suresnes are in the immediate neighborhood, the former 
famous for its porcelain factory, which requires a ticket to 
secure admission. If the stranger has come through the 
park on foot and is weary he may return to Paris by steam- 
boat on the river, or by tramway along its banks ; and if 
he wishes to gratify his hunger he will find an abundance 
of restaurants for that object. Near Suresnes is Mont 
Valerian, which rises six hundred feet, and is a prominent 
object in any general view of Paris. Permission to enter 
is difficult to obtain, but a view from the base of its walls 
is not interdicted, and embraces a wide extent of country. 
The fort on the summit of the mount was an important 
factor in the defence of Paris in 1870, and gave great trou- 
ble to the besieging armies. It was badly knocked to 
pieces during the bombardment, but has since been 
restored. 

The stranger in Paris will find a never-failing source of 
entertainment in strolling along the Boulevards in fine 
weather at the hours when the populace takes its airing. 
The shops need not be described, as they will describe 
themselves when seen, and will possibly deplete the purse 



64 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

of the visitor. Besides the Boulevards, the best of the 
shopping streets are the Rue de la Paix, Rue de Rivoli, 
Rue Vivienne, Rue Richelieu, and Rue St. Honore. 
Don't fail to see the Palais Royal and the shops that line 
the interior walks of its garden. Many persons consider 
the shops of the Palais Royal the best in Paris for jewelry 
and kindred things. They are of all grades and kinds, 
and can satisfy the highest or lowest taste in the iewelry 
line. Many of the shops of Paris have adopted the. fi?'ix 
fixe system, and make no abatement on their asking fig- 
ures, but the majority of them are not rigid in this respect. 
Unless the placard " prix fixe " is displayed there is an 
opportunity for bargaining, and even where it appears 
a reduction of figures may sometimes be obtained. The 
writer once bought for ten francs, in a prix fixe establish- 
ment, an article for which twenty-four francs had been 
demanded, and found afterwards that he had been cheated 
out of at least five francs. The Bon Marche and other 
large concerns adhere rigidly to the one-price system. 

The theaters are numerous, and the prices of admission 
are far more varied than in America. In most of them 
there is a second and sometimes a third bureau, where a 
person arriving after the first or second act pays accord- 
ing to the time he enters, instead of buying a full ticket. 
This is an excellent arrangement for a stranger who wishes 
merely to look at the interior of a house without remain- 
ing through the whole performance. If you wish to 
secure a seat in advance, go to the Bureati de Location of 
the theater between twelve and five o'clock ; or you may 
buy of a speculator at one of the theater offices along the 
boulevards at any hour of the day. The speculators have 
been known to swindle the stranger. When he arrives at 
the theater with his ticket he finds that the seat which was 
finely located on the speculator's model of the house is far 



POCKET GUIDE FOU EUROPE. 65 

at one side or away at the rear. Tickets secured in 
advance cost a franc or two more than at the hour of the 
performance. Strangers should beware of curbstone spec- 
ulators, who frequently sell spurious tickets, and other- 
wise defraud the innocent. 

Two nuisances of the Paris theaters are the claquers 
and the ouvreuses. The former (men) are paid to applaud 
the performance, and are usually seated in the center of 
the pit, to the number of a dozen or more, under the direc- 
tion of a leader. The latter (women) show patrons to 
seats or boxes, and might be useful were it not for their 
over-zeal in the effort to earn a fiotirboire. They compel 
a lady to take a footstool, even when she refuses, and 
then demand pay for it. They take away cloaks and 
shawls without being asked to do so, and bring them back 
in the interval before the last act, so as to get their gratui- 
ties early. 

The principal cafes chantants are in the Champs Elysees; 
and not far off is the Jardin Mabille, where hired dancers 
disport for the entertainment of those who are willing to 
pay the price of admission. On the south side of the 
river is the "Jardin Bullier, or Closerie des Lilas, where 
the students and other young men go to meet their sweet- 
hearts and join in the dance. The performance is not at 
all prudish, especially in the advanced hours of the even- 
ing. There are similar balls at the Chateau Rouge, 
Asnieres, and the Elysees Montmartre, but none of them 
are patronized by the best society of Paris. In winter 
there are masked balls in several establishments, which 
are frequented by the summer patrons of the balls named 
above. 

The cemetery comes naturally after the places of dissi- 
pation. There are fifteen cemeteries in and around Paris. 
The most interesting to the stranger are Pere Lachaise, 
5 



66 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE^ 

Montmartre, and Mont Parnasse, the first on the east side 
of the city, the second on the north, -and the third on the 
south. Pere Lachaise contains one hundred and seven 
acres, and is the largest of the existing cemeteries. It is 
beautifully laid out on the slope of a hill, and the stranger 
may wander for hours among its tombs and find some- 
thing of interest at every step. A list of its noted occu- 
pants would fill several pages of this book. There are 
nearly twenty thousand monuments in the cemetery, many 
of them belonging to families, and not to individuals. 
The tombs of Abelard and Heloise, dear to the senti- 
mental, are near the entrance, a little to the right of the 
main path. The prison of La Roquette is passed just 
before we enter the cemetery. On the open space in 
front of the prison the guillotine is occasionally employed 
on murderers and other high-class criminals. 

The suburbs of Paris are hardly less interesting than 
the city itself. The place first sought by strangers after 
they have done with the great city is Versailles, which is 
about fourteen miles to the southwest, and may be reached 
by two lines of railway and by two carriage roads. Trains 
run every hour from the St. Lazare station and also from 
Mont Parnasse. On Sundays and fete days they are 
more frequent. There is also a tramway which follows 
the carriage road ; and the cab-drivers will generally be 
found willing to drive to Versailles for a reasonable price. 
The principal attraction of Versailles is the palace and 
the buildings and park connected with it ; and the visitor 
will do well to go there when the fountains play (about 
twice a month on Sundays). There are said to be nearly 
six miles of paintings on the walls, and a walk through 
the principal rooms of the palace without stopping will 
consume nearly two hours. 

St. Denis is five miles from Paris, and can be reached 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 67 

every hour by train from the Gare du Nord, and also by 
omnibus every half-hour. The only attraction is the Abbey 
Church, where the kings of France were buried. Many 
of the tombs are empty, but the monuments have been 
carefully restored, and a couple of hours may be profitably 
passed in the church. 

Fontainebleau is reached in two hours from Paris by 
the Lyons railway, — fourteen trains daily. The entire day 
should be taken for the excursion, which will include the 
famous palace where Napoleon I signed his abdication, 
and a drive in the forest of Fontainebleau. 

St. Germain, the birthplace of Henry IV, is a favorite 
resort for visitors, and is reached by rail in one hour from 
the St. Lazare station. Pleasant excursions may be made 
to Sceaux, Ville d'Avray, Enghien, Montmorency, Vin- 
cennes, Compiegne, and dozens of other places within 
two or three hours of Paris. 



CHAPTER VI. 

FROM PARIS TO NAPLES. CENTRAL AND 
SOUTHERN ITALY. 

The majority of tourists, after they have done with 
Paris, proceed in the direction of Switzerland and Italy. 
If you are in Paris in the spring and wish to see Italy, 
your best plan is to go as fast as possible to the southern 
limit of your journey, and do your sight-seeing while com- 
ing north. You will thus have the season in your favor, 
and while the days are becoming warmer you will be flee- 
ing from the south, to find yourself in the cool atmos- 
phere of Switzerland during the heat of summer. 

You may go south by way of Lyons and Marseilles,- or 
by Turin and Rome. The former route is preferable, as 
it can be made to cover places that the traveler is not 
likely to visit in a special journey. A night and part 
of a day may be spent at Lyons, and a . similar halt may 
be made at Marseilles. From the latter port there are 
steamers three or four times a week to Naples, which is 
the southern limit of nine-tenths of the tourists from 
America. A direct steamer will carry you to Naples in 
two days, but it is better to go by an indirect one which 
touches at Genoa, Leghorn, and Civita Vecchia, consum- 
ing four or five days on the voyage. You thus have an 
entire day at Genoa, another at Leghorn, and part or all 
of a day at Civita Vecchia, the voyage from port to port 
being made in the night. A day may be well spent at 
Genoa in seeing its old palaces, the street of the Gold- 

(68) 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 69 

smiths, the relics of Christopher Columbus, a few old 
churches, and possibly it may include a visit to the Villa 
Pallavicini, seven miles from the city. Leghorn can be 
done in half an hour or so by the ordinary tourist ; and 
then an excursion may be made to Pisa (eleven miles by 
rail), where the Cathedral, the Baptistery, the Campo 
Santo, and the Campanile, or Leaning Tower, are conve- 
niently grouped together outside the town. They are the 
finest works of their kind in Italy, and on no account 
should they be omitted. The Cathedral was begun in. 
1063, and has undergone several restorations and altera- 
tions. It contains some magnificent work in bronze and 
marble, and several paintings of great merit. The bronze 
lamp in the nave is the one that gave Galileo the idea of 
the pendulum. The Baptistery is without a rival, and 
the Leaning Tower needs no description to American stu- 
dents of geography and natural philosophy. 

The journey from Marseilles to Genoa may be made by 
rail along the shores of the Mediterranean, and if the 
traveler is inclined to break the journey he can do so at 
Cannes, Nice, Mentone, or San Remo, which are all 
popular resorts in winter. Near Nice he can spend a few 
hours (and some money) at Monaco, where fashionable 
gamblers congregate, and in the height of the season a 
view of the gambling establishment is by no means unin- 
teresting. A charming ride by carriage from Nice to 
Genoa is over the old Corniche Road, which has been 
little patronized by tourists since the opening of the rail- 
way. From Genoa to Naples by rail the traveler will pass 
through Leghorn and Rome, and may break the journey 
at either place. 

By one way or the other we are approaching Naples; the 
best approach is by sea, whence we have a view of Vesu- 
vius, with its column of smoke rising towards the sky, 



70 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

and pass the famous Islands of Capri and Ischia, to enter 
the bay which has been so justly praised by many writers. 
The city is in the form of a semi-circle along the shores 
of the bay ; the hills rise steeply behind it, so that Naples 
appears to be built in a series of terraces, the whole 
crowned by the frowning Castle of St. Elmo and the 
Church of San Martino. 

Three or four days will suffice for a hurried view of 
Naples and its surroundings. A day will be required for 
a. visit to Pompeii and Herculaneum, another for Vesuvius, 
including the ascent of the volcano, and another day may 
be devoted to Posilipo, Pozzuoli, and Baia, with their 
ruins of temples, baths, theaters, and tombs almost with- 
out number. Another day will embrace Sorrento and 
Capri, but it is better to take a day for each of them if 
there is time to spare. The list of excursions might go 
on indefinitely to include Paestum, Amalfi, and Salerno, 
and there will be a strong temptation to go to Sicily by 
steamer for a glimpse of Messina, Syracuse, Catania, and 
Palermo, and also for a view of Mount Etna and its 
smoking summit. ' Inside the gates of Naples the sights 
include the Museum, where the antiquities gathered from 
Pompeii are carefully preserved, and so arranged that the 
visitor may study the life of the Romans of two thousand 
years ago as clearly as he can to-day. It is better to 
defer visiting -the Museum until after the excursion to 
Pompeii, unless the. traveler has time to go there twice. 
The Cathedral is well worth a visit, and if the stranger is 
in Naples on the first Sunday in May, the 19th of Septem- 
ber, or the 1 6th of December, and for several successive 
days after those dates, he may witness the miracle of the 
liquefying of the blood of St. Januarius. Other import- 
ant churches are San Domenica, San Severo, Santa Chiara, 
and San Martino ; a visit to the latter may be combined 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 71 

with a drive to the Castle of St. Elmo, whence there is 
an admirable view of the Bay of Naples and its surround- 
ings. The life of the streets of Naples is full of interest ; 
the stranger should take a walk through the poorer quar- 
ters and among the narrow streets where the light of day- 
enters with difficulty, and his last evening should be 
devoted to the Villa Nazionale (formerly Villa Reale), 
the fashionable promenade of the Neapolitans. San Carlo 
Theater should be seen, as the house. is one of the largest 
in the world; opera is given here frequently, but the 
performance is usually poor and only surpassed in bad- 
ness by the manners of the patrons. In ill behavior the 
fashionable Italians will put to shame the newsboys of the 
Bowery or the audience of a London " penny gaff," and 
the worst-mannered of all the Italian opera-goers are the 
Neapolitans. 

There is nothing worth a visit on the road from Naples 
to Rome ; the journey by rail (one hundred and sixty 
miles) requires eight hours by express trains and ten or 
twelve hours by ordinary trains. If the traveler desires 
to see an enormous palace with extensive gardens, he 
may spend a few hours at Caserta, twenty miles out from 
Naples, but if he has seen or is to see Versailles the 
detention is hardly compensated if time is of great value. 
Through fares: twenty-eight francs first, and eighteen 
francs forty centimes second class. As we approach the 
Eternal City we watch from the windows of the train, and 
in due time the dome of St. Peter's stands out against the 
sky and tells us we are near our destination. 

The sights of Rome are numerous ; there are more 
churches and ruins that must be seen by every traveler 
than in any other city, and we should arrange our plans 
so as to have not less than ten or twelve days at our dis- 
posal. For those who are in a hurry a guide is indispens- 



72 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

able, and so is a carriage, as the distances are long and 
omnibuses are few. Fortunately carriages are cheap, and 
the printed tariff in French and Italian leaves no oppor- 
tunity for swindling. Hotels of all kinds are to be found 
in Rome, and those who seek lodgings in private houses 
may find them announced by placard in every street in the 
Strangers' Quarter, or may learn of them through a 
banker. Restaurants [trattoria) are abundant and suited 
to every purse ; in the largest of them there are waiters 
who speak French and sometimes English, but the smaller 
ones do not possess this luxury. Many persons have 
rooms at the hotels and take their meals at the restaurants, 
but in such case the hotels sometimes augment their bills 
a franc or two per day. If the traveler is fond of table 
d'hote dinners he would do well to take them at his hotel 
and eat his breakfast at the restaurant. 

If a dozen visitors to Rome should make out a list of 
sights for their friends to see in a limited stay it is not likely 
that any two of them would agree. There is no other 
city of Europe that needs to be " read up " beforehand so 
much as this ; there are dozens of books on Rome, and 
many of them are excellent. For a guide-book Baedeker's 
is the best, and for a general work there is nothing sur- 
passing Hare's " Walks in Rome." Fine descriptions of 
Italian life may be found in Edmund About's " Rome of 
To-day," and also in Story's " Roba di Roma." Read up 
on Rome before leaving home or while crossing the ocean, 
and make a list of the sights that strike your fancy, as you 
cannot see everything thoroughly unless you stay at least 
three months, — and then you will not be satisfied. 

A general view of the city should be taken before the 
round of detailed sight-seeing begins. Take a carriage drive 
of three or four hours that will carry you past the Church 
of St. Peter, the Castle of St. Angelo, the Coliseum, the 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 73 

Forum, Trajan's Column, the Church of St. John Late- 
ran, the principal fountains, along the Corso, and to some 
of the villas and palaces beyond the walls. Do not stop 
to examine anything in this drive, but devote your atten- 
tion to the outline of the city and what it contains. 

Facile princeps stands St. Peter's Church, and it is the 
first of the historic edifices visited by the majority of 
strangers in Rome. The Circus of Nero once occupied 
the site of this building, and tradition says that St. Peter 
was buried there after his martyrdom. Constantine the 
Great built a church there in A.D. 306, and it is said that 
an oratory stood there more than two hundred years 
before. The present church was begun early in the six- 
teenth century, but its construction was so slow that it 
was not dedicated till a hundred years later, and even 
then it was far from completion. Its dimensions are not 
exactly known, as the measurements vary considerably, but 
it may safely be called six hundred feet long by four hun- 
dred wide, and the height from the floor to the top of the 
cross on the dome is not far from four hundred and fifty 
feet. The ball on the dome will hold sixteen persons at 
once, but the ascent into it should not be undertaken by 
corpulent individuals. It is easier to get into the ball 
than out of it, and when inside you can see nothing but 
darkness. 

The visitor is liable to disappointment when he first 
enters St. Peter's church. He expects everything to be 
on a grand scale, and as he looks from the doorway to 
the farther end of the building his expectation is not real- 
ized. But when he comes to examine the place in detail 
he discovers his mistake. Everything is so nicely propor- 
tioned to everything else that perfect harmony is pre- 
served, and the - eye is deceived. Not far from the 
entrance is a basin of holy water. The two cherubs that 



74 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

support it appear no larger than ordinary babies, but 
when we come near them we find they are fully six feet 
high. The canopy under the dome is ninety-eight feet 
high, though few visitors at first glance would think it to 
be more than fifty feet. The mosaics of the Evangelists 
appear of natural proportions, and it surprises us to learn 
that the pen in the hand of St. Luke is seven feet long. 
Several hours may be spent in a study of St. Peter's, with 
its numerous chapels, tombs, monuments, and works of 
art. The church is open at all times, but some of the 
chapels can only be visited on certain days, and the dome 
is closed except on Thursdays, from eight to ten in the 
forenoon. If the visitor is not accompanied by a guide, 
he should be provided with a detailed description of the 
church, or he will miss many things of interest. 

The church of St. John Lateran, commonly called 
" The Lateran," is considered next to St. Peter's in inter- 
est, and is said to be first in religious renown, as indicated 
by the inscription on its facade. The papal coronation 
takes place here, together with other important ceremo- 
nies, and it is the church of the Pope as Bishop of Rome. 
The situation is more imposing than that of St. Peter's, 
and there is a magnificent view from the portico and from 
other parts of the building. The first church on this site 
was erected in the fourth century, and destroyed by an 
earthquake in 896. Then another church rose and was 
burned, and another followed the same fate. The present 
building dates from the latter part of the fourteenth cen- 
tury; but, like most .religious edifices of Europe, it has 
undergone many changes, so that its builders would find 
difficulty in recognizing it if they should return to earth 
in these days. The church contains numerous works of 
art, and has an interesting museum of Christian and other 
antiquities. Near it is the Scala Santa, a flight of twenty- 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 75 

eight marble steps from the Palace of Pilate at Jerusalem 
and brought to Rome in the year 326 by the Empress 
Helena. No one is allowed to ascend them except on his 
knees. 

The church of Santa Maria Maggiore retains more of 
its ancient character than do either of the other edifices 
we have seen. The gilding of the paneled roof is said 
to have been done with the first gold brought from South 
America to Spain, and was presented to the Pope by 
Ferdinand and Isabella. The church is sometimes called 
Basilica Liberiana, because it was erected by Pope Libe- 
rius. Close to it is the church of San Antonio Abbate, 
with an uninteresting interior. Between January 17th 
and 23d large numbers of horses, cows, goats, and other 
domestic animals are brought here to be blessed and 
sprinkled with holy water. 

The other principal churches that should be visited by 
those who have only a few days at their disposal are San 
Lorenzo fuori Le Mura, San Paola fuori Le Mura, the 
Sixtine Chapel, San Clemente, San Agostino, Santa Maria 
sopra Minerva, Santa Maria Delia Pace, Santa Maria del 
Popolo, San Pietro in Vincoli, San Trinita de Monti, and 
San Omofrio. There are other churches by the hundred, 
and many of them are interesting; but the tourist* will 
generally have seen enough by the time he has completed 
the foregoing list. 

The Vatican, with its four thousand rooms and exten- 
sive museum, may be visited from St. Peter's ; and the 
church and the Vatican will usually be found enough for 
an entire day. The Vatican museum is the finest in the 
world, and its picture gallery stands without a rival. The 
intelligent reader does not need to be informed of the art 
treasures preserved here, and we will refrain from any 
attempt at a catalogue. 



76 POCKET GUIDE FOP EUROPE. 

After the palace of the Vatican, we may visit the 
Palazzo della Cancelleria, Palazzo Farnese, Palazzo di 
Venezia, Palazzo Giraud, and Palazzo Borghese. If we 
thirst for more palaces we can be accommodated with 
forty or fifty others, without counting a score or two of 
" villas," many of which are quite palatial in character. 

The ruins which claim our attention are the Coliseum, 
Forum, Imperial Palaces, Cloaca Maxima, Pantheon, 
Theater of Marcellus, Forum of Trajan, Temple of Nep- 
tune, Baths of Titus and Caracalla, Pyramid of Cestius, 
Catacombs of St. Calisto, and Tomb of the Scipios. The 
ruins of the Coliseum and the Baths of Caracalla are the 
most extensive in Rome, and the visitor should try to see 
them leisurely. There are several fountains that should 
not be neglected. The night before you are to leave 
Rome go to the Fountain of Trevi, to drink of its waters 
and throw a small coin into the basin, in order to ensure 
your return to the city. 

From Rome to Florence we can go by three routes. The 
shortest (two hundred and twenty-one miles) is by Orvieto 
and Siena ; the longest (two-hundred and seventy-one miles) 
via Civita Vecchia, Leghorn, and Pisa ; and the third (two 
hundred and thirty-two miles) via Perugia and Arezzo. 
Tern! with its waterfalls is on the last-named route. 
Perugia is an old city of Etruscan origin, and standing on 
a hill fifteen hundred feet above the winding Tiber. 
Arezzo contains a fine old cathedral of the thirteenth cen- 
tury, and was the birthplace of Maecenas and Plutarch. 
The house of the latter may be visited. Pisa and Leghorn 
have been described elsewhere. 

Florence, the Roman Florentia, and La Bella Firenze 
of the Italians, stands on both banks of the Arno, and 
climbs the surrounding hills. In point of interest it ranks 
next to Naples and Rome among Italian cities, and as a 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 77 

center of art it is without a superior. From three days 
to a week will be consumed in a hasty view of its historic 
buildings and their contents ; and the traveler who can 
spend a month in Florence will find constant employment 
for his time. There are few antiquities from the Roman 
period, but the deficiency is amply made up by other 
things. The art collections are numerous and of the best 
character, and at almost every step the stranger is 
reminded of the great masters in sculpture and painting. 

The Pitti and Uffizzi palaces are on opposite banks of 
the river, but connected by a covered gallery. Their picture 
galleries are large and abundantly supplied with works of 
the highest class, so that the student or lover of art is 
fairly bewildered by the wealth around him. A single 
room of the Uffizzi Gallery, known as " The Tribune," 
has been pronounced the richest room in the world. It 
contains the Venus di Medici, the Dancing Faun, the 
Wrestlers, and the Apollini, besides other masterpieces 
of ancient sculpture. Among the paintings in this room 
are some of the best works of Raphael, Correggio, Titian 
Del Sarto, and other famous artists. The visitor will lin- 
ger long here, and if he can come but once to the gallery 
he should spend the most of his time in the Tribune. 
From the Uffizzi Gallery follow the covered way to the 
Pitti Gallery, where there are more than five hundred 
works of the old masters, in addition to many modern 
paintings and drawings. The Boboli Gardens may be 
entered from the Pitti Palace, and are well worth a visit. 

The Palazzo Vecchio in the Piazza della Signoria was 
built in 1298, but considerably changed afterwards. It 
contains some paintings and sculpture of high merit. 
The Piazza was the scene of the burning of Savonarola 
and two other heretics in 1498, and is the business center 
of the Florence of to-day. The Loggia dei Lanzi is on 



78 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

the Piazza, and not far off is the entrance to the Uffizzi 
Palace. The collection of paintings in the Academy of 
Fine Arts is next to those of the Pitti and Uffizzi Palaces, 
and there are many paintings of importance in the 
churches. The traveler will not fail to visit the house of 
Michael Angelo, which is one of the stock sights of 
Florence, and the houses of Americus Vespucius, Dante, 
Galileo, and Bianca Capelio will claim his attention if 
time permits. The bridges over the Arno deserve inspec- 
tion, particularly the Ponte Vecchio, with its rows of 
shops on either side. The churches of most importance 
are the Duomo or Cathedral, Santa Croce, San Lorenzo, 
Santa Maria Novello, and San Marco. The Cathedral 
holds a high place among the great churches of Europe, 
and t the Baptistry at its western end is a fine work of art 
and famous for its bronze doors. Close by the Cathedral 
is the celebrated Campanile or Bell-Tower of Giotto, 
nearly three hundred feet high, and adorned with statues 
and other works of the best sculptors. The Church of 
Santa Croce contains among others the tomb of Michael 
Angelo, while the tombs of the Medici family are in the 
Church of San Lorenzo. 

Interesting excursions may be made to Fiesole, San 
Miniato, La Certosa, Torre del Gallo, and Vallambrosa. 
The last-named excursion may be accomplished in a sin- 
gle day, but it is best to start on the previous evening 
and sleep at Pelago, about three miles from the railway 
station of Pontassieve. 



CHAPTER VII. 

NORTHERN ITALY.— BOLOGNA, VENICE, 
MILAN, TURIN, VERONA, ETC. 

Having done with Florence, our best plan is to go to 
Bologna and Venice, and from the city of canals to Verona 
and Milan, The railway will carry us to Bologna in about 
four and one-half hours; from Florence to Pistoja, at 
the foot of the Apennines, the country is comparatively 
level and one of the most fertile parts of Italy. Pistoja 
was the principal fighting ground of the Guelphs and 
Ghibellines, and the Roman conspirator, Cataline, was 
defeated and killed within sight of its walls. It contains 
several interesting churches and a beautiful garden, at- 
tached to the Villa Puccini. The pistol was invented here 
and named after the place of its manufacture. Soon after 
leaving Pistoja we begin climbing the Apennines; in a 
distance of thirty miles the train passes through forty- 
seven tunnels, one of them making a semi-circular curve 
inside the mountain in order to gain elevation. Give a 
glance at the locomotives used on this mountain section 
of the railway. There is a constant succession of beauti- 
ful views from the window of the carriage. Take a seat 
on the right side. 

Bologna contains one hundred and thirty churches and 
twenty monasteries, and has upwards of one hundred 
thousand inhabitants ; it is one of the oldest cities of 
northern Italy, and its university has a wide celebrity. -It 
was a Roman colony two hundred years before the Chris- 

(79) 



80 POCKET GUIDE FOE ETJBOPE. 

tian era. San Petronio is the largest and most interesting 
church, though still incomplete ; it abounds in paintings 
and sculpture of a high order, and the same may be said 
of the churches of San Domenico and San Stefano. The 
latter is a collection or pile of seven different churches 
erected at various periods and not all on the same level. 
There are two towers, both of them out of the perpen- 
dicular, one of them so much so that it has not been 
completed. The Piazza Vittorio Emanuele (formerly 
Piazza Maggiore) is the principal public square, and situ- 
ated in the heart of the city; it contains a remarkable 
fountain and a bronze statue of Neptune, which was 
erected three hundred years ago, and is said to weigh ten 
tons. The principal buildings of interest are on or near 
this^ square. The University, one of the oldest in the 
world, has a fine collection of antiquities and a library of 
one hundred thousand volumes. The Certosa or Campo 
Santo is one of the most remarkable in Italy, and a visit 
to it may be combined with a walk to the Church of La 
Madonna di San Luca, which commands a magnificent 
view of the surrounding country. A colonnade of six 
hundred and thirty-five arches leads to the church. 

Parma and Modena, both famous for their cathedrals 
and the works of art contained in them, may be visited 
from Bologna. The Ducal Palace of Modena has a pic- 
ture gallery abounding in works of the most celebrated 
painters of Italy, and the same may be said of the Palazzo 
Farnese of Parma. 

From Bologna to Venice the route passes by Ferrara 
and Padua ; the former is a decayed city, and offers little 
of interest to the tourist beyond its ancient palace and 
the Cathedral. Padua claims to trace its origin from the 
brother of King Priam of Troy, and was the richest town 
of northern Italy during the times of the Caesars. Its 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 81 

chief attractions are the Cathedral or Church of San 
Antonio, with fine frescoes and bronzes, the Madonna 
dell' Arena, and the Church of San Giustina. Close to 
the last-named edifice is an excellent Botanical Garden 
which merits inspection. 

As we approach Venice the blue waters of the Adriatic 
are brought into view, with the domes and towers of the 
famous city of the sea. We traverse the longest bridge 
in the world, with two hundred and twenty-two arches of 
solid masonry, and finally halt at the station, where boats 
take the place of carriages to convey us to the hotel. 
We may have an omnibus-boat or a gondola at our choice; 
the latter is preferable, as the omnibus is slow and often 
crowded, and the view of the canals as we pass along 
them is much more restricted than in the gondola. There 
is a printed tariff for these vehicles, so that the most 
conscientious efforts of the gondolier to swindle his pat- 
rons may be frustrated. A preliminary bargain is desir- 
able, however, to avoid a dispute at the end of a journey. 
If two gondoliers are taken the fares are doubled. 

Two or three days are sufficient for a hurried view of 
Venice, as the sights are not very numerous and distances 
limited. Good guides can be engaged at the hotels, but, 
if the tourist can speak enough Italian to understand and 
be understood, he can dispense with the services of a 
professional and rely on the gondolier to conduct him. 
Carry plenty of the smallest copper coins, as the venerable 
fellows (superannuated boatmen) who hold the gondola at 
the landing places expect a couple of sous for each per- 
formance. Engage a gondola by the day, with a single 
boatman (five francs and a trifle extra), unless your party 
exceeds three persons. In the latter case you need a 
"barca" which will hold a party of six, and requires two 
rowers. If the weather is fine delightful excursions may 
6 



82 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

be made on the water in the evening. The stranger 
should begin his sight-seeing by making a general tour, 
going the entire length of the Grand Canal and a few of 
the smaller ones, and taking a promenade along the 
Merceria and through the Piazza of St. Mark. 

The great sights of the city are the Church of St. Mark 
and the Palace of the Doges, both on the Piazza of 
St. Mark. The church was built in the eleventh century, 
and was originally of true Byzantine style, but the numer- 
ous alterations it has undergone have given it a mixed 
character. The famous bronze horses that have migrated 
from Rome to Constantinople, thence to Venice, and from 
there to Paris and back again, are above the portal of the 
church, and best seen from the center of the square. The 
interior is so grand and contains so much of interest that 
a detailed description is impossible. The Campanile, 
near the church, is three hundred and fifteen feet high, 
and the top affords a fine view of the city; the ascent is so 
gentle that the current tradition that Napoleon I. rode to 
the top on horseback is quite possibly true. The Palace of 
the Doges is the sixth palace that has occupied the site ; 
it dates from, the middle of the fourteenth century, and 
has undergone slight alterations in the past five hundred 
years. The great halls and the admirable paintings that 
adorn them will excite the visitor's admiration ; the works 
of art are so numerous that he will quite likely depart 
with a very confused idea of what he has seen. His visit 
will terminate with an inspection of the horrible dungeons 
beneath the palace .and a visit to the Ponte dei Sospiri 
(Bridge of Sighs), which Byron has made memorable. 
Beyond the bridge is a prison that contains nothing of 
interest, and is not always accessible to the voluntary 
visitor. 

The Academy of Fine Arts contains the best picture 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 83 

gallery in Venice, including paintings by Titian, Tintoretto, 
Paul Veronese, Leonardo da Vinci, and other great mas- 
ters. Of the many churches in Venice the most interest- 
ing are Santa Maria della Salute, San Stefano, the Church 
of the Frari (containing the tomb of Canova), San Rocco, 
with its paintings by Tintoretto, Church of the Jesuits, 
San Zanipolo, containing many monuments of the doges, 
San Salvatore, San Giorgio Maggiore, and II Redentore. 
The best of the old palaces are on the Grand Canal, and 
two or three of them may be visited, for an idea of the 
home of a Venetian in the days of the glory of Venice. 
The Arsenal with its museum must not be neglected ; and 
an excursion should be made to Murano for its cathedral 
and glass factory. The general tourist should provide 
himself with the admirable book of Howells', " Venetian 
Life," and the art student will be interested in Ruskin's 
" Stones of Venice." Make a visit to the Lido by steam- 
boat from the Piazetta, and if the season and tide are 
favorable a delicious bath may be taken on the sea-front 
of the island. 

From Venice to Verona (seventy-two miles) is a ride of 
about four hours. A couple of hours may be spent at 
Vicenza (forty miles from Venice) for a view of the 
Arcades and the principal churches and other public edi- 
fices. The sights of Verona may be done in a single day. 
They include the Arena, a well-preserved amphitheater 
erected by the Roman emperor Diocletian, the Piazza dei 
Signori, a square surrounded by magnificent buildings, 
and having a statue of Dante in the center, the Tombs of 
the Scaligers, the Cathedral, the Churches of St. Anasta- 
sia and St. Zenone Maggiore, and the Palazzo Pompei, 
containing the Civic Museum. The Giusti Gardens pre- 
sent a good view of the Alps and are finely laid out ; 
they contain some cypress trees a hundred and twenty 



84 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

feet high and said to be five hundred years old, together 
with a few Roman antiquities. Verona was founded by 
the Gauls, and afterwards became a Roman colony. The 
play of Romeo and Juliet was based on events in the his- 
tory of Verona, and a rude trough in red marble is exhib- 
ited in the garden of a house in the Vicolo Franceschine 
as the tomb of Juliet. If time permits, the stranger will 
do well to glance at the fortifications that surround the 
city and render it an important military point. 

From Verona to Milan (one hundred and five miles) 
will require about five hours by rail. The route passes 
Peschiera at the southern end of Lake Garda, a pretty 
sheet of water thirty-five miles long and seven wide at 
the broadest part. It is inferior in scenery to the Lake 
of Como, but presents some fine views near the northern 
end. Great quantities of lemons and oranges are grown 
on the flat land surrounding the lake, but the severity of 
the climate requires the trees to be covered in winter. 
Boats make the tour of the lake daily from Peschiera, and 
also from Desenzano, a few miles to the westward. The 
battlefield of Solferino may be visited from Desenzano 
(about five miles). If the reader is hungry for more 
churches and burial places he may halt at Brescia and 
Bergamo, otherwise he will keep the railway train to 
Milan, the capital of Lombardy and a prosperous city of 
nearly a quarter of a million inhabitants. It contains 
about eighty churches. Its cathedral is one of the most 
famous in Europe, and, next to St. Peter's at. Rome and 
the Cathedral of Seville, it is the largest. Its dome is 
two hundred and twenty feet high, and the tower rises 
three hundred and sixty feet in the air. The floor of the 
interior is four hundred and eighty feet long by one hun- 
dred and eighty wide, and the nave is one hundred and 
fifty-five feet high. There are ninety-eight Gothic turrets 



POCKET GUIDE FOK EUEOPE. 85 

on the roof, and more than three thousand marble statues 
on the exterior, many of them mutilated during the revo- 
lutions through which the country has passed. Windows 
of stained glass, tombs, paintings, and statues adorn the 
interior ; and the magnitude of the building is not appre- 
ciated till the visitor has ascended the roof and tower. 
From the tower the city of Milan is spread like a map at 
the spectator's feet, and in the distance are the snowy 
peaks of the Alps, including Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, 
the Matterhorn, and the great St. Bernard. 

In the church of Santa Maria delle Grazie is the famous 
painting of Leonardo da Vinci, " The Last Supper." It 
is badly preserved, partly from having been long neg- 
lected, and partly because of the dampness of the place. 
As it is painted directly on the wall, there is no hope of 
transferring it to a safer position. The churches of St. 
Ambrose and St. Lorenzo are the next sacred edifices 
worth visiting, and the guide will show two or three oth- 
ers that may be included in a promenade. Other sights 
are the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele, one thousand feet 
long by fifty wide, connecting the Piazza del Duomo 
with La Scala, and lined on either side with handsome 
shops ; the Pinacoteca, or Picture Gallery, with painting 
and frescoes of the highest class; the Brera, or Palace of 
Science and Art, with a library of one hundred and sev- 
enty thousand volumes, and many antiquities and antique 
casts ; the Piazza d'Armi, with its triumphal arch and a 
circus capable of seating thirty thousand spectators ; the 
Biblioteca Ambrosiana, with picture gallery and library ; 
and the Public Gardens and Cemetery, the latter contain- 
ing many fine monuments. 

From Milan to Turin (ninety-four miles) is a ride of 
four to six hours. Take a seat on the left, for an occa- 
sional fine view of the Alps. The most important 



86 POCKET GUIDE FOE EUROPE. 

points on the line are Vercelli and Novara, both con- 
taining interesting churches, that of Novara being the 
best. A monument to commemorate the battle of Ma- 
genta can be seen on the right of the road as we approach 
the station of that name. 

Turin had a place in history in 218 B. C, when it was 
destroyed by Hannibal. It was immediately rebuilt, and 
was the capital of Piedmont during the middle ages. 
After the unification of Italy it was the capital and resi- 
dence of the king till 1865, when the seat of government 
was removed to Florence, and afterwards to Rome. Of 
late years it has been an important commercial and man- 
ufacturing point, and its population has increased rapidly. 
Most of the buildings are modern, and the city contains 
fewer antiquities than might be supposed when its great 
age is considered. There is much activity in the streets, 
and the stranger will find many things in the shops that 
threaten to loosen the strings of his purse. The princi- 
pal public buildings are the Palazzo Madama, which 
stands in the center of the Piazza Castello, and the Pa- 
lazzo Reale, or Royal Palace, on the north side of the 
same square. The southeast wing of the latter building 
contains the Armeria Reale, or Royal Armory, and the 
collection preserved there is one of the best in Italy. 
Specimens of armor of all ages may be seen here, and 
there are many swords and other weapons once belong- 
ing to royal or other great personages. The sword worn 
by Napoleon I. at the battle of Marengo is in the first 
room to which the visitor is admitted ; and there is a sad- 
dle of the Emperor Charles V. in red velvet, and a bronze 
eagle of the eighth Roman legion. The Piazza Carig- 
nano is worth visiting, and near it is the Academy of 
Science, containing a museum of natural history, a 
museum of antiquities, and a picture gallery, all of good 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 87 

character. The cathedral contains some fine frescoes and 
paintings, and the monuments of several of the dukes of 
Savoy. Pleasant promenades may be made to the Public 
Garden, the Capuchin Monastery, and the Cemetery, and 
a more serious excursion to the Superga. The latter is a 
church on the summit of a hill two thousand six hundred 
feet high, and about five miles away by an ascending road. 
It was erected in consequence of a vow made by Prince 
Eugene before the battle of Turin, in 1706, who promised 
to build a fine church on the hill in case he should be vic- 
torious. There is a magnificent view from the dome, and 
in the interior of the church are the tombs of the kings of 
the house of Savoy. 

We have now seen the principal places of Italy, and are 
ready to go to Switzerland. If we sigh for more of the 
land of art and macaroni, we may visit Pavia, one hour 
from Milan, stopping on the way to see the Certosa di 
Pavia, a Carthusian monastery founded in 1396, suppressed 
by the Emperor Joseph II., and recently restored. The 
building is a fine work of art and contains some admir- 
able paintings. The battle of Pavia, when the Emperor 
Charles V. captured Francis I. of France, was fought near 
the Certosa in 1525. It was from this battle that Francis 
sent the despatch which has become historic : " Tout est 
perdu fors Pkonneur." Pavia contains a cathedral of 
grand proportions, but yet unfinished; its university is 
called the oldest in Europe, and is said to have been 
founded by Charlemagne. 

Ravenna may be visited from Bologna (fifty miles by 
rail), and the entire excursion can be accomplished in a 
day. It is one of the oldest towns in Italy, and con- 
tains many monuments of the architecture, mosaics, and 
sculpture of past centuries. The town is three miles in 
circumference, but a large part of its area is occupied by 



88 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

gardens ; Lord Byron lived here about two years, and 
some of his best works were composed in Ravenna. The 
cathedral contains some excellent monumental sculpture 
and two excellent frescoes by Guido Reni ; the building 
is mostly of modern construction, but is on the site of 
a church of the beginning of the fifth century. The 
baptistery joins the church, and contains mosaics of the 
fifth century, representing the baptism in Jordan, and 
the Twelve Apostles ; the font and a metal cross are of 
the same period as the mosaics, and the arcades of the 
interior are very old. Ravenna has a dozen or more 
churches worth seeing, if time permits, and the Academy 
of Fine Arts contains some pictures of first-class merit. 
Outside the city is the Rotonda or Mausoleum of Theo- 
doric the Great, and still farther away is St. Apollinare 
in Classe, one of the finest of the ancient churches of 
Ravenna. It has an open roof resting on twenty-four 
columns, and the walls are decorated with portraits of 
one hundred and twenty-six bishops who have officiated 
in an unbroken line from St. Apollinaris (A. D. 74) to the 
present incumbent. The mosaics are among the best of 
this kind of art. 

The traveler from Bologna along the east coast of Italy 
will pass through Forli and Rimini, neither of them hardly 
worth a halt. But from Rimini he may visit (fifteen miles 
by carriage road) San Marino, the smallest republic in the 
world and probably the oldest. It was founded, accord- 
ing to tradition, by Saint Marinus in the early part of the 
Christian era, and has preserved its integrity ever since. 
Napoleon I. tried unsuccessfully to subdue it; it is situated 
on a mountain difficult of access, and probably owes its 
independence to its position as well as to its' lack of 
military or other value. It has altogether about six thous- 
and inhabitants, and maintains a small army, a legislature, 
and other paraphernalia of government. 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 89 

Beyond Rimini, on the road to the south, is Ancona, 
which has a fine harbor and is a reasonably prosperous 
town. It was founded by Greeks from Syracuse, and 
enlarged by the Emperor Trajan ; a triumphal arch erected 
in honor of Trajan by the Roman senate stands on one 
side of the harbor, and is one of the best ancient works 
of the kind in existence. The Cathedral and some of the 
smaller churches will repay a visit. Beyond Ancona 
there is nothing worth the attention of the tourist, and he 
may well turn his face towards the north. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

FROM ITALY TO SWITZERLAND.— THE REGU- 
LAR SWISS ROUND. 

There are several routes out of Italy in the direction of 
the North Star, in addition to the single one already 
described. Beginning at the eastward, we may go from 
Venice to Vienna by the Semmering Railway; the express 
train will carry us through in seventeen or eighteen hours, 
and the ordinary trains in twenty-two to twenty-five hours. 
On this route are the Caves of Adelsberg, requiring about 
four hours for an exploration ; they are about a mile from 
Adelsberg station, and there is a fixed tariff, which is 
reasonable enough for a party but rather dear for a single 
visitor. The quicksilver mines of Idria are fifteen miles 
from Loitsch station, and an excursion there and back 
from the railway, including the visit to the mines, will 
occupy a day. Gratz, the capital of Styria, is the most 
interesting town on the route, and a day may be spent 
there to advantage. The Semmering Railway is a mag- 
nificent piece of engineering, and the time in the train is 
not likely to hang heavily on the traveler's hands. Take 
seat on the right if possible, as it commands the best 
views ; a judicious fee to the conductor will generally 
secure it. 

Hardly less interesting than the Semmering is the Bren- 
ner Railway from Verona to Innsbruck and Munich. A 
few hours may be spent at Trento, or Trent, which was 
formerly the wealthiest and most important town in the 

(90) 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 91 

Tyrol, and contains an old castle and the Church of St. 
Maria Maggiore, where the famous Council of Trent was 
held in 1555. Innsbruck, the capital of the Tyrol, is on 
both sides of the Inn, and situated in a delightful valley 
surrounded by rugged mountains. The Hofkirche, or 
Franciscan Church, is the principal object of interest ; it 
contains the monuments of Emperor Maximilian I, and 
some admirable sculptures in high relief. There is a 
diligence route from Innsbruck over the Alps to Colico 
by the Stelvio road, which is the highest in Europe (9045 
feet above sea-level); one from Trent to Venice by the 
Val Sugana ; and one from Trent to Verona by Riva and 
Lake Garda. The traveler who has abundant time and 
money may take one of these routes for the sake of the 
scenery, but the rapid tourist will prefer the railway. 

Those going directly north from Milan will select the 
Splugen Pass. They may halt an hour or two at Monza 
(eight miles from Milan) to see the Cathedral, which con- 
tains the celebrated Iron Crown of Lombardy ; the crown 
is principally of gold and precious stones, and has on the 
inside a thin strip of iron, said to have been hammered 
from one of the nails of the True Cross. At Como is the 
terminus of the railway and the foot of Lake Como; 
steamboats run to Colico at the other extremity in four 
houi's, or to Bellagio (about half way) in two hours. The 
best place for a halt on this beautiful lake is Bellagio, and 
there is enough in the vicinity to interest the tourist for at 
least a day. Como is the queen of the Italian lakes, and 
all visitors unite in its praises. From Colico diligences 
cross the Alps twice daily (in summer) in seventeen hours 
to Coire, where the Swiss railway system is reached. The 
principal places on the road are Chiavenna, famous for 
beer, Splugen, a busy town where several roads meet, and 
Thusis, at the confluence of the Rhine and Nolla rivers. 



92 POCKET GUIDE FOK EUBOPE. 

From Splugen there is a road to Bellinzona over the San 
Bernardino Pass (not to be confounded with the Pass of 
the Great Saint Bernard). 

The next pass to the westward is the St. Gotthard. It 
was formerly an interesting diligence route, but is now 
rendered prosaic by the tunnel (nine and one-quarter miles 
long) through the mountains. From Milan to Airolo, the 
southern end of the tunnel, the route passes several places 
of little importance, traversing rich fields and presenting 
an endless succession of pretty views along the valley of 
the Ticino and its tributaries. The train emerges from 
the northern end of the tunnel at Geschenen and descends 
the valley of the Reuss -to Fluelen, where it reaches the 
•banks of the Lake of the Four Cantons. Two miles 
before reaching the lake it passes Altorf, where William 
Tell shot the apple from his son's head ; the incident is 
commemorated by a statue of Tell in the public square of 
Altorf, and a village near the town is pointed out as the 
birthplace of the celebrated marksman. 

Another route from Milan is by the Simplon Pass, which 
affords a view of Lake Maggiore and the Borromean 
Islands. These islands are near Pallanza, and may be 
visited from that point; the most interesting are the Isola 
Bella and the Isola Madre, the former containing a fine 
garden and chateau, and the latter being laid out in seven 
terraces, crowned with a picturesque villa. At Pallanzo 
the diligence route begins, or it may be taken at Arona, the 
terminus of the railway, if one does not wish to make the 
steamboat journey. The scenery is uninteresting for the 
first few hours, but gradually improves as we approach 
Domo d'Ossola, where the mountain road properly begins. 
From this point over the pass the scenery is often of the 
grandest character, especially in the ravine of Gondo and 
near the gallery of the same name. At the summit of the 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 93 

pass (6595 feet) is the Hospice of the Simplon, which was 
founded by Napoleon I, and is supported (very poorly) by 
voluntary contributions. The descent from this point to 
Brieg, the commencement of the railway to Martigny and 
Geneva, is quite rapid, and at several places there are 
magnificent views. From Dorao d'Ossola to Brieg is a 
ride of about eleven hours, and the diligences are usually 
run so as to make direct correspondence with the railway 
trains. 

A traveler who is entirely willing to " rough it " may go 
from Turin to Martigny by the Great St. Bernard Pass, 
but the route is not advisable for the luxurious tourist. 
About four hours of the journey must be made in the 
saddle or on foot, as the road from St. Remy to Cantine 
de Proz is simply a bridle path. Aosta is the starting 
point on the Italian side, and the journey thence to Mar- 
tigny may be accomplished in seventeen hours. Two 
days should be taken for the trip, and the intervening 
night spent at the famous Hospice of St. Bernard (eight 
thousand one hundred and twenty feet high). The Hos- 
pice consists of two buildings, and is said to have been 
founded in A. D. 962. Travelers are entertained gratui- 
tously, but are expected to leave enough in the alms-box 
to pay for their accommodation, unless too poor to do so. 
It is a lamentable fact that the receipts from tourists who 
cross the St. Bernard Pass and stop at the Hospice do 
not equal a tenth of what the same persons would have 
to pay at a hotel. It is hoped that no readers of this 
book will be as mean as their predecessors. They are 
reminded that the pious monks of St. Bernard devote 
their lives to a work of charity, and that the Hospice, 
which was very wealthy in the Middle Ages, is now suffer- 
ing for lack of funds. 

The next and last of the mountain passes is that of 



94 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Mont Cenis. It is no longer traversed by carriages, as 
the mountain has been pierced ; and the journey from 
Turin to Geneva may be made in from ten to twelve 
hours. There are some pretty bits of scenery along the 
line, and the tourist may stop if he chooses at Modane, 
Chambery, and Aix-les-Bains. The last-named place is a 
favorite sanitary resort, and its healing qualities were 
known to the Romans two thousand years ago. Before 
the days of the Tunnel the carriage-road over Mont Cenis 
was the shortest and also the least interesting of the great 
passes of the Alps. Since the opening of the Mont 
Cenis and St. Gotthard routes there has been serious talk 
of a tunnel under Mont Blanc, and it is not improbable 
that the next decade will witness its commencement, and 
possibly its completion. 

The majority of Swiss tourists enter Switzerland from 
the north rather than from the south, as there are many 
persons going for a run on the continent whose time and 
money do not permit them to visit Italy at ail. There 
are three points of entrance, — Bale, Neuchatel, and 
Geneva — and it is probable that Bale receives more stran- 
gers than the other two places combined. By travelers from 
London direct it is the most readily reached, and the 
route to it is emphatically " the shortest and cheapest " 
of all the roads to Switzerland. From Paris to Bale by 
express train is a ride of ten hours, to Neuchatel thirteen 
hours, and to Geneva fourteen hours. The route to Bale 
is by the Eastern railway of France (Chemin de fer de 
VEst), passengers for Neuchatel or Geneva go by the 
Lyons railway {Chemin de fer de Paris-Lyon-Mediterannee), 
their routes separating at Dijon. The principal cities on 
the route to Bale are Troyes, Vesoul, and Belfort. On 
the Neuchatel route we pass by Dijon, Dole, and Pontar- 
lier, while on the Geneva route we pass Dijon, Macon, 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 95 

and Culoz, reaching the line from Turin to Geneva at the 
latter point. The last two hours of this ride should be 
made by daylight if possible, as the train skirts the banks 
of the Rhone in its passage through the Jura mountains, 
and occasionally seems to threaten to plunge into the 
stream. Take seat on the right. 

Since Bale is the point most easily reached from the 
north, we will go there to begin our tour of Switzerland. 
If possible we should not undertake the journey before 
July nor after August if we intend to go among the higher 
mountains, as the snows are late in melting and early in 
falling. But, if we confine our travels to the points 
reached by railway and the great diligence roads, we can 
safely start in June or as late as September, though we 
may find the winds colder at times than is altogether 
agreeable. On some of the higher passes the snow 
remains till the middle of July, and occasionally through 
the entire summer. The expenses are about the same as 
for a journey in other parts of Europe ; and in all the 
principal stopping-places there are hotels suited to the 
requirements of every purse. The Swiss are frequently 
called, and with justice, the best hotel-keepers, and it 
would be difficult to surpass the great hostelries of the 
land of William Tell. In most of the hotels the charges 
are regulated by a carefully-arranged tariff, which is 
posted in the rooms or open to inspection at the office, so 
that there is little chance for dispute. 

The majority of the Swiss landlords are honest in their 
dealings with patrons ; but occasionally the tourist encoun- 
ters one who seeks to make much of the stranger within 
his gates. During his journeys in Switzerland the author 
several times found his bill increased by mysterious 
" extras," which had not been called for or furnished, 
and by others which had been furnished without his 



96 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE, 

request. For sublimity of impudence in overcharging 
he gives the palm of merit to the Hotel Bellevue, 
at Neuchatel. Its manager supplied a carriage for a 
drive in the city and suburbs at the agreed price of six 
francs, but charged eight francs in . the bill, and would 
make no deduction. His argument was that the driver 
expected a gratuity of one franc and had only received 
eighty centimes. The charges of guides and porters and 
for carriages and saddle-horses are fixed by an official 
tariff, which is generally reasonable, though not infre- 
quently it is designed with a view to extracting as much 
as possible from the stranger's pocket. In all cases it is 
best to have prices arranged beforehand ; and where 
guides, drivers, etc., are engaged, the amount of gratuity 
expected should be distinctly understood. 

A tour in Switzerland may embrace any time from a 
fortnight upwards ; and those who have only a week at 
their disposal may see a great deal if they make good use 
of their eyes. A trip of a month from Bale will include 
all the principal points in Switzerland, and give a fair 
allowance of time for each. If the tourist wishes to be 
more leisurely, or has less time at his disposal, he will do 
well to read up carefully on the routes, and leave out 
what appears to him of least importance. The full jour- 
ney may be set down as follows : 

Go from Bale in three hours by the Baden railway to 
Neuhausen, the nearest station to the falls of the Rhine ; 
or, if you travel by the Swiss line, stop at Dachsen, on 
the opposite side of the river. After Niagara and Mont- 
morency, the Rhine falls are rather tame, as the total 
height of the falls and their accompanying whirlpools and 
rapids is about a hundred feet. They are the largest falls 
in Europe, but by no means the highest. The best time 
for seeing them is in June or early July, when the river is 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 97 

swollen by the melting snows. You will have no difficulty 
in ascertaining the best points for a view, as there are 
numerous guides who press their services on strangers. 
Spend the night at the Falls, and go the next morning to 
Zurich (two hours by rail). See the town, and go by rail- 
way to the Uetliberg (half an hour), which rises fifteen 
hundred feet above Zurich and its lake, and affords a 
magnificent view of the Alps and a large area of interven- 
ing country. 

Spend the night at Zurich, and go in the morning by 
train to Zug, thence by boat to Arth, and thence mount 
the Rigi by a " cog-wheel " railway, which has, in some 
places, an ascent of one foot in five. The ride is inter- 
esting and picturesque, and brings you to the summit of 
the mountain in less than two hours from Arth. 
From the Rigi-Kulm (" Rigi Summit ") five thousand 
nine hundred and six feet above the sea, and four thou- 
sand four hundred and seventy-two above the Lake of 
Lucerne, the view embraces an area nearly three hundred 
miles in circumference. On the south are the Alps, with 
their snow-clad peaks filling the horizon ; on the west are 
the peaks of the Pilatus group j and on the north and 
east is a more level country stippled with lakes, furrowed 
by green valleys, bounded in the distance by the chain of 
the Jura mountains, and streaked and dotted in the nearer 
portion with roads and farms and villages, apparently 
without number. In all its features, the view from the 
Rigi is one of the finest in the world, and there is proba- 
bly no point accessible by railway that can begin to equal 
it. Spend the night on the mountain, and, if the morning 
is clear, get up early enough to see the, sunrise. There 
is no danger that you will oversleep yourself, as the com- 
motion in the hotel and the performances of a vigorous 
7 



98 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

peasant on an Alpine horn are sufficient to waken you 
from the soundest slumber. 

A morning train from the Rigi Kulm will carry you to 
Vitznau, whence you take steamboat to Lucerne (two 
hours altogether), see Lucerne (principal sights, the Hof- 
kirche, Glacier Garden, and Lion of Lucerne) in the 
afternoon, hear the great organ in the evening, and go 
next morning (three hours) by steamboat to Fluelen, at 
the southern end of the lake. Go by the St. Gotthard 
road (diligence or special carriage) to Amsteg and Ander- 
matt, where you sleep, and go the next day by diligence 
over the Furca Pass to the Rhone Glacier. The Rhone 
Glacier is the largest in Switzerland, and an excellent 
view is obtained from the road as we descend to the hotel. 
There is yet time to go in the afternoon on foot or by 
saddle-horse (two hours) to the Grimsel Hospice, where 
you sleep, and the next day go on to Meiringen (foot or 
saddle-horse, six hours), visiting on the way the Falls of 
the Handeck and also the Falls of the Reichenbach, the 
latter about a mile from Meiringen, and the former on the 
road down the mountain. The Handeck is a magnificent 
fall ; the river Aare makes a plunge of two hundred and 
fifty feet over the edge of a precipice, and there are 
excellent views of the cascade both from above and below. 
The Reichenbach Falls are three in number, on the river 
of the same name, and an enterprising pedestrian will find 
his reward by climbing (one hour) from Meiringen to a 
point above the upper fall. The tourist may sleep at 
Meiringen, and then go by saddle-horse or on foot (pass- 
ing the Reichenbach Falls) over the Scheideck and the 
Faulhorn, both of them commanding fine views of the 
surrounding Alps, and by the time he has reached the 
latter (about seven hours) he will be ready for the welcome 
of the hotel and its accommodations for sleeping. 



POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 99 

Go the next morning down the Faulhorn to Grindelwald, 
and visit the glacier, where you will enter a grotto hewn in 
the solid ice, and if you wish to make an excursion on the 
surface of the glacier you will find the necessary equip- 
ments and guides for the adventure. Cross the Wengern 
Alp (seven hours) the next day to Lauterbrunnen, and 
after seeing the Staubbach Fall take a carriage to Inter- 
laken. The Staubbach ( " Dust brook " ) is a single fall 
of nine hundred and eighty feet, and the little stream is 
turned into spray long before it reaches the bottom of the 
precipice ; the brook at its best is never large, and late in 
summer it dwindles to a thread or dries up altogether. 

Interlaken is prettily situated in a valley, and stands, as 
its name indicates, "between the lakes." One of the 
famous peaks of the Alps, the Jungfrau, is visible from 
Interlaken, and has a prominent place in all pictures of 
this well-known resort. It is emphatically a town of 
hotels, and is often densely crowded in summer ; for the 
transient visitor the hotel prices are high enough, but if 
one chooses to stay a week or more, or will go there very 
early or very late in the season, he can make his own 
terms. The inhabitants live almost entirely on the patron- 
age of strangers ; in winter they are largely engaged in 
wood-carving, and the shops displaying the results of their 
industry are numerous and abundantly stocked. 

The morning after reaching Interlaken, go by steamer 
on the Lake of Brienz (one hour) to the Giesbach Water- 
fall. This is pronounced one of the prettiest cascades in 
Switzerland, though it often lacks that important item of 
a cascade — water. Paths have been made through the 
forest, bridges thrown over the stream at several points, 
a comfortable hotel erected, and other improvements car- 
ried out with a view to inducing visitors to patronize the 
place. From the landing-pier on the lake a tramway has 



100 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

been made for carrying patrons to the door of the hotel, 
six hundred feet above ; there is a double track, with two 
cars connected by a stout rope, and while one car ascends 
the other goes down, the descending one being weighted 
with water. 

Pass the rest of the day and all the night at the 
Giesbach, or you may return to sleep at Interlaken, if you 
prefer. In the morning go by steamer to Thun, ride 
(carriage) to Wimmis, and then walk or take a saddle- 
horse (five hours) to the top of the Niesen, whence there 
is a fine view of the Alps, and of the valleys of the Kander 
and Simme, with other valleys in the vicinity. The best 
view is at sunset and also at sunrise ; in the middle of the 
day the light is not favorable for a study of the mountains, 
though it brings out the details of the low lands in surpris- 
ing clearness. The next morning a walk or saddle ride of 
three hours will bring us to Frutigen, a pretty Alpine 
village, whence we may take a carriage (or walk) to 
Kanderstag, another Alpine village, with a magnificent 
view. Sleep here, and then go (walk or saddle) over the 
Gemmi, in seven hours ; if by saddle-horse, you will find 
that you are prohibited from riding over certain portions 
of the route on account of its dangers. The end of the 
journey will find you at the Baths of Leuk; the spectacle 
in the baths is curious one, and should not be omitted. 
There are more than twenty hot springs in the neighbor- 
hood, and some of them are considered highly beneficial 
in cutaneous diseases. The bathers are required to sit 
daily for several hours immersed up to their necks in the 
water, and as they would find solitary bathing a trifle 
tedious the managers of the baths have adopted the 
gregarious plan. There is a large basin, and here the 
patients sit together, each one wearing a long bathing 
dress, and having a floating table whereon he may keep 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 101 

his books and papers or be served with coffee or other 
beverage. Some of the tables are arranged for card- 
players, and altogether the patrons have a better time of 
it than they would alone. The frequenters of the baths 
are mostly Swiss and French. 

Start in the morning from the Baths of Leuk for Leuk 
Station (two and one-half hours' walk), and then take 
train (forty minutes) to Vispach, whence you may go (foot 
or saddle) in four and one-half hours to St. Niklaus. 
The next morning ascend the Riff el (eight hours), and 
spend the night there ; you will have the satisfaction of 
sleeping at an elevation of eight thousand one hundred 
and twenty-nine feet, and unless well supplied with bed- 
clothing your dreams will be troubled with thoughts of 
cold. The view from the Riff el has aroused the enthusi- 
asm of many a traveler, and you should not be wanting in 
expressions of delight. From the Riffel you may ascend 
the Gorner Grat, eighteen hundred and sixty feet higher 
than the Riffel Inn (in one and one-half hours), and take 
the same time for returning ; then you may go to Zermatt 
in two hours, and will be quite weary enough to halt for 
the night. If you have several days to spare, and are 
thirsting for adventure, there is no part of Switzerland 
where you can use your time to better advantage than 
here. Zermatt is surrounded by some of the loftiest 
peaks of the Alps, and is the center of operations for the 
lovers of mountain climbing. Mont Cervin, Monte Rosa, 
the Rothhorn, and other famous peaks are in full view, 
and the level of the little village is nearly two thousand 
feet above that of Chamouny. From Zermatt the first 
ascent of the Matterhorn (Mont Cervin) was made July 
14, 1865, by Lord Francis Douglas, Rev. Mr. Hudson, 
and Messrs. Whymper and Hadow, accompanied by three 
guides. They made the journey to the summit without 



102 POCKET GUIDE FOK EUROPE. 

accident, but on their return one of the gentlemen lost his 
footing on the edge of a precipice and the whole party, 
with the exception of Mr. Whymper and two guides, were 
thrown four hundred feet down the cliff. Their bodies 
were recovered a short time later and buried in the little 
cemetery at Zermatt. Since that time a path has been 
cut over the most dangerous places, and the ascent is 
made several times every year. Two days are usually 
taken for the journey, but it can be accomplished in a 
single day if the start is made at midnight, Only the 
most experienced climbers should undertake it. 

Get away from Zermatt at an early hour for Vispach in 
order to catch the 5 p. m. train for Martigny. From 
Zermatt to St. Niklaus (three and one-half hours) is a 
carriage road, and from St. Niklaus to Vispach (four and 
one-half hours) there is only a bridle path. The train 
will carry you to Martigny in a little more than two 
hours ; sleep at Martigny, and go the next day in nine 
hours (by wagon road over the Tete Noire or bridle path 
over the Col de Balme) to Chamouny. The next day 
visit the Montanvert and the Mer de Glace, returning 
by the Mauvais Pas and Chapeau. There are numerous 
excursions in the neighborhood of Chamouny, including 
the ascent of Mont Blanc (fifteen thousand seven hundred 
and eighty-one feet). The visit to the summit will require 
two days, and is now an easy matter for good pedestrians. 

Leaving Mont Blanc and the lesser mountains undis- 
turbed, we leave Chamouny the morning after our visit to 
the Mer de Glace, and go to Geneva (by diligence) in six 
or seven hours. We spend a day among the sights of 
Geneva, and go by steamer to Lausanne (three hours), 
where we stop a few hours, and then, by the last steamer 
of the day, go to Villeneuve at the end of Lake Leman. 
The next day a carriage will -take us to Vevay and enable 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 103 

us to visit Montreux, Clarens, and the Castle of Chillon, 
which Byron has made famous ; and the later hours of 
the day may be devoted to a ramble about Vevay and a 
visit to the church of St. Martin and the Chateau of 
Hauteville, from which there is a magnificent view. In 
the morning proceed by diligence and rail to Freiburg 
(five hours), where you will be interested in the suspen- 
sion bridge over a deep ravine, and hear the great organ 
which is played every evening in summer. Go by rail 
the next day to Berne, the capital of Switzerland, and 
devote the afternoon to the clock tower, museum, bear- 
pits, and other sights, not neglecting the curious streets 
with their sheltering arcades. The railway will carry us 
the next day to Bale, and complete our journey of a month 
in Switzerland. We have seen the principal points of 
interest, have traveled by rail, diligence, special carriage, 
horseback, and on foot, and can consider ourselves good 
authority for all future time whenever the mountain 
region of Central Europe is under discussion. 



CHAPTER IX. 

SWITZERLAND CONTINUED. — THE RHINE 
AND GERMANY. 

Readers of the preceding chapter may be unable from 
various causes to make the tour described. They may 
be limited in time or in pedestrian and equestrian accom- 
plishments, or be lacking in enthusiasm over mountain 
climbing or mountain scenery. For their benefit we will 
sketch a few shorter routes, some of them including bridle 
paths and others avoiding them altogether. Not a few 
travelers say they go to Switzerland for pleasure, and do 
not find it when they leave railways and carriage-roads 
behind them. They can be consoled with the reflection 
that Switzerland may be fairly done without the use of a 
saddle and with little more pedestrianism than is neces- 
sary for entering or leaving a carriage at railway station 
or hotel. Our routes will be given in skeleton form, and 
the reader can look up the details at his leisure. 

From Bale go by rail to the Falls of the Rhine, or to 
Constance and Romanshorn, and thence to Zurich, which 
will be enough for one day ; the second day go by Zug 
and Arth to the Rigi, and descend in the afternoon to 
Lucerne ; third day by rail to Thun and steamboat to 
Interlaken, or over the Brunig Pass (six hours carriage) 
to Interlaken ; fourth day see Lauterbrunnen and Grindel- 
wald ; fifth day go by railway from Interlaken to Berne, 
and sixth day from Berne to Vevay ; seventh day see 
Vevay and intermediate points to Martigny ; eighth day 

(104) 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 105 

go over the Tete Noire by carriage to Chamouny, and 
spend ninth day at Chamouny ; on the tenth day go by 
diligence to Geneva ; see Geneva on the twelfth, and 
leave Switzerland on the thirteenth for Paris, by way of 
Macon and Dijon. 

The following tour can be made by carriage, steamboat, 
and railway, with the exception of the route from the 
Rhone Glacier to the Grimsel Hospice (two hours), and 
from the Hospice to Meiringen (six hours), on which 
there is no carriage-road. If the tourist cannot walk, or 
ride in a saddle, he may be carried by men in a chaise-d- 
forteitrs. For this mode of travel he has only to sit in a 
chair and let his bearers perform the rest of the work. 
The journey here indicated is a pleasant one, and shows a 
good deal of Switzerland. 

Bale, Zurich, Rigi, and Lucerne, as in the preceding 
route. Then by steamboat to Fluelen, and thence* by 
carriage to Andermatt in one day ; the next day by car- 
riage over the Furea Pass to the Rhone Glacier ; the 
next day to Grimsel Hospice and Meiringen; and the 
next by carriage to Interlaken ; thence go to Berne, 
Vevay, Martigny, Chamouny, and Geneva, as above. Or 
if you shrink from the Grimsel Pass you can go from 
the Rhone Glacier by carriage to Brieg, whence the rail- 
way will take you to Martigny ; but by so doing you will 
miss the Bernese Oberland. 

If you wish to cross the Alps and see the Italian lakes, 
you may do as follows : 

Bale, Rhine Falls, Constance, Lake of Constance, Lin- 
dau or Bregenz, and Coire, where the railway system ter- 
minates. Then cross the Splugen Pass to Lake Como, 
see Milan, and return to Switzerland by the Simplon Pass 
to Brieg. Or you may return by St. Gotthard railway to 
Fluelen and Lucerne, whence you may proceed as on the 
routes already indicated. 



106 POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 

Many visitors to Switzerland are loud in praise of the 
Engadine Valley, which has become quite popular in the 
last few years. It can be reached by diligence from Coire 
over the Fluela Pass ; and the traveler will find an abun- 
dance of hotels, though not always of the best class. The 
climate of the Engadine Valley, especially in the upper 
portion, is quite cool, and there is no lack of picturesque 
scenery. St. Moritz and Samaden are the principal 
towns. 

In all parts of Switzerland, during the tourist season, it 
is well to secure rooms in advance by mail or telegraph, 
the latter preferred. This is particularly necessary at the 
points where the hotels are few in number ; and if there 
is only one hotel, as at the Rhone Glacier, the Grimsel, 
and other points, it is well to pay for a response, and 
make sure that rooms have been reserved. Telegrams 
should be in French or German, as many of the operators 
do not understand English, and are liable to make mis- 
takes ; and moreover they can refuse to send English des- 
patches. Suppose you are a party of three going from 
Lucerne to the Rhone Glacier. You wish to spend the 
night at the Hotel Bellevue, in Andermatt, and desire 
separate rooms. Your telegram will be as follows: 

"Hotel Bellevue, Andermatt: 

" Reservez trois chambres a une lit pour demain (Mardi) soir. Re- 
ponse payee a Hotel National, Lucerne." 

In an hour or two after sending the despatch you 
receive the reply ; and if it is affirmative, as it is pretty 
_sure to be, you need give yourself no uneasiness. When 
you arrive at the hotel you find the manager at the door 
with a pile of telegrams in his hand. You give your 
name. He runs over the pile till he finds your telegram, 
on which he has marked the numbers of the rooms 
assigned to you, and then calls the servants to show you 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 107 

to your places. It frequently happens that all the rooms 
in a hotel are thus engaged, and all comers who have not 
telegraphed are turned away or must put up with the soft 
side of a plank for a bed. The Swiss telegraph tolls are 
very cheap, and the prudent traveler will not fail to make 
frequent use of the wires. 

Routes through Switzerland might be multiplied almost 
indefinitely, as the country is a network of railways, car- 
riage-roads, and bridle-paths, and every lake large enough 
to float a boat is sure to boast of one or more steamers. 
Take as little baggage as possible ; a large quantity is 
difficult to manage on the carriage or horseback routes, 
while on the railways every pound of baggage that is 
weighed and receipted for is charged extra. There is no 
allowance on the Swiss railways, as in most other contin- 
ental countries. Trunks and valises may be sent by post 
on all the railway and diligence routes at a fixed tariff ; 
and thus the traveler who wishes to send his baggage for- 
ward to meet him at the end of a pedestrian or equestrian 
tour may easily do so. 

The majority of American tourists visit Switzerland 
before going to Germany, and therefore find it convenient 
to terminate their Swiss travels at Bale. From Bale pro- 
ceed to Strasburg by the railway on the west bank of the 
Rhine. A few hours will suffice for a view of the Cathe- 
dral, which is one of the famous churches of Europe and 
the principal sight of the city. A church stood on the 
site during the sixth century. The present building was 
founded in 1015, and the work of construction was carried 
on at different periods in several centuries, and is yet 
incomplete. The Strasburgians claim the spire as the 
highest in Europe ; but the honor is disputed by the cathe- 
drals of Cologne, Vienna, and Rouen, and possibly by one 
or two others. The platform on the roof gives an admi- 



108 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

rable view of Strasburg and the surrounding country. 
The stranger should plan his visit so as to be in the 
church at noon to witness the performance of its Astro- 
nomical Clock, which has a wide reputation. If time 
remains, take a drive around the fortifications, and visit 
the market place. 

From Strasburg go to Baden-Baden, once the resort of 
fashionable gamblers. Their amusement was suppressed 
several years ago, and the place is now visited on account 
of its healing waters and its delightful situation on the 
edge of the famous " Black Forest " of Germany. Charm- 
ing walks and drives abound here. If the stranger goes 
from Bale by the line on the east bank of the river, he 
may stop an hour or two at Freiburg to visit its fine old 
cathedral, dating from the twelfth century. 

From Baden-Baden continue your journey to Heidel- 
burg (three hours by rail), where you should visit the old 
castle, which is the finest in the valley of the Rhine. It 
was begun in the fourteenth century, and was subsequently 
greatly enlarged. A large part of it was laid in ruins in 
the wars which devastated this part of Europe from the 
fourteenth to the eighteenth centuries ; but enough remains 
to satisfy the desires of the most exacting visitor. In the 
cellar is the famous " Great Tun of Heidelburg," which 
was constructed in 1741, and has an interior capacity of 
forty-nine thousand gallons. There is a fine museum of 
medieval and other antiquities in another part of the 
building. The situation is a charming one, and the view 
from the grand balcony should not be missed. 

From Heidelburg go to Mayence, and then descend the 
Rhine by steamboat to Cologne. If time permits, stop at 
Coblence to see the famous fortress of Ehrenbreitstein, 
which has been called, with justice, the Gibraltar of the 
Rhine. It stands on a precipitous rock, nearly four hun- 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 109 

dred feet above the river, and the view from the top is 
one of- the best which the valley of the Rhine can boast. 
Halts may also be made at Bonn and Konigswinter. The 
former is celebrated for its university, and the latter, at 
the foot of " the castled crag of Drachenfels," is a conve- 
nient point for excursions among the " seven mountains." 
Days and weeks may be spent along the Rhine if one has 
a fondness for beautiful scenery and delights in rambles 
near the fairy-haunted stream and the hills that surround 
it. You can hardly go amiss in selecting a landing-place, 
as the whole of this part of the Rhine is of surpassing 
loveliness. Drinkers of Rhine wine will see many places 
along the river which have become familiar to them on 
the labels of bottles ; but if they seek their favorite bever- 
ages at the hotels along the route they will be liable to 
disappointment. Rudesheimer, Geisenheimer, Assman- 
hauser, and other famous vintages, are easier found in 
New York and San Francisco than in Mayence or 
Cologne. 

At Cologne (Koln) the principal sight is the great 
cathedral, which is the chief among Gothic churches, and 
justly ranks as one of the ecclesiastical wonders of the 
world. Its construction began in 1248, but the comple- 
tion has only occurred in our day ; and the whole edifice 
has cost millions of dollars and a vast amount of archi- 
tectural study. See the cathedral leisurely, and admire 
everything to which the guide calls your attention. Do 
not fail to ascend to the roof for the view of Cologne and 
the wide and winding Rhine. Visit the church of St. 
Ursula, where the bones of the eleven thousand virgins 
slain by the Huns are preserved, and, if skeptical as to 
the number, count them. The veritable " eau de Cologne " 
can be bought here. . There are some .forty odd manufac- 
turers, each the only genuine and original ; the visitor can 



110 POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 

easily get the right article by purchasing at the first shop 
which comes in his way. If he fails to find a sh©p, the 
waiters at the hotel and numerous runners at the railway 
station can supply him. 

Below Cologne the Rhine is flat and uninteresting, and 
the stranger will wisely refrain from following it to the 
sea. If he wishes to continue a little longer on its waters 
he may go to Dusseldorf (five hours), or the railway will 
carry him there in an hour and a half. The town is 
chiefly interesting for its art gallery, which contains over 
fourteen thousand sketches and drawings by famous mas- 
ters, and a fair supply of modern pictures. The old 
paintings which formed the Dusseldorf Gallery were car- 
ried to Munich in the early part of this century, and have 
never found their way back again. From Dusseldorf go 
to Elberfeld, if you are interested in manufactures of tex- 
tile fabrics ; but, if otherwise, do not leave the train, as 
there is nothing else of consequence. Dortmund (three 
hours from Dusseldorf) is the next station of importance. 
It has about twenty-five thousand inhabitants, and con- 
tains a few old churches and some other venerable build- 
ings. There is another railway route between Dusseldorf 
and Dortmund, passing by Oberhausen and Essen, the 
latter containing the celebrated steel works of Frederich 
Krupp. This line is shorter than the one by Elberfeld 
but passes through a less interesting country. 

There are two roads from Dortmund to Hanover, one 
passing by Minden and the other by Paderborn, with very 
little to choose between them. Each contains a cathe- 
dral, and the country along the lines is much the same. 
Hanover was once the capital of the kingdom of that 
name, and is a handsome city, with much activity in manu- 
facturing. The public buildings are finely designed, and 
the most of them are modern. The new portion of the 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. Ill 

city is a sharp contrast to the old town, with its narrow 
and roughly-paved streets. There is a good museum and 
an excellent gallery of pictures in Hanover ; and the 
Marktkirche and old Rathhaus in the market-place are 
well worth visiting. The stranger will not fail to see the 
new and old palaces in the city, and also the Schloss Her- 
renhausen, at the end of the long avenue of lime-trees on 
the northwest side of the town. The buildings are quite 
extensive, and there is a garden (one hundred and twenty I 
acres), and a gallery of ancient and modern sculpture. 
Hanover is a favorite resort for foreigners wishing to I 
master the German language, as it is said to be spoken 
there with great purity. 

There is nothing of interest on the direct route from 
Hanover to Berlin. The tourist is advised to follow the 
indirect line via Brunswick and Magdeburg, the latter an 
important manufacturing town, with a cathedral, rath- 
haus, and other buildings worth a delay of two or three 
hours ; and the former containing a fine museum, a cathe- 
dral, and some other sights. From Magdeburg the rail- 
way line passes near Potsdam ; but as the place is only 
sixteen miles from the great city it is best not to stop at 
present, but make it the subject of a special excursion 
from Berlin. Berlin contains nine railway stations. The 
traveler from Magdeburg will arrive at the Potsdam sta- 
tion, nearly two miles from the center of the city ; and 
on asking for a carriage he will receive a metal check 
bearing the number of the cab assigned to him. Before 
taking the number he should state whether he desires a 
first-class cab {Erste Klasse), a second-class one {Zweite 
Klasse), or a baggage cab {Gepackdroshke). The latter 
should be taken if there is much baggage ; but the first 
and second-class carriages will be found sufficient for 
ordinary purposes. If three or four seats are required be 



112 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

sure and ask for a " schweispanner," or two-horse car- 
riage, or you may find yourself consigned to a vehicle of 
only two places. 

The hotels on or near the Unter den Linden are the 
most expensive and also the best situated. The cheaper 
ones are on the side streets, and there are several of a 
very fair order near the railway stations. A long and 
carefully-arranged list may be found in Baedeker's Guide 
book, together with a list of furnished lodgings for those 
wishing to make a prolonged stay. Hotel life in Berlin 
is about at the same rates as in Paris or London, but the 
accommodations are generally less satisfactory. The 
stranger who inquires the rate of charges beforehand will 
generally find his bill less than if he neglects that formal- 
ity. Prices in the best restaurants are high, while in the 
cheaper ones the character of food and service often 
leaves much to be desired. Beer is the prevailing bever- 
age, and many of the breweries are finely fitted up and 
have restaurants attached. 

A walk or drive along the Unter den Linden is the 
first thing for the stranger in Berlin : it is a magnificent 
promenade, over a mile in length and nearly two hundred 
feet wide, and receives its name from the avenues of lime 
trees that furnish an abundant shade. It is a street of 
palaces and fine buildings, and has few equals in Europe. 
At one end is the Brandenberg Gate, and at the other the 
Royal Palace, the latter on the banks of the Spree, which 
runs through Berlin and divides it into two sections. 
Several statues are on or near the Linden, the most im- 
portant being that of Frederick the Great, at the eastern 
end. The Palace, the Library, the Academy, and other 
important buildings are virtually in a single group at the 
eastern terminus of the avenue. The Royal Palace con- 
tains a fine collection of pictures, in which the victories 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 113 

of the German army have a prominent place. There are 
numerous portraits of German kings and queens, and 
unless the visitor has an abundance of time he cannot 
afford even a passing glance at all of them. 

The Museum, close to the Palace, is of the first class, 
and some of its sections are unsurpassed in all Europe, 
In the portion devoted to the fine arts there are some 
noted pictures, and the collection of coins embraces manj 
very rare specimens. There are practically two museums, 
the new and the old, and neither should on any account 
be neglected. The lover of art will find several galleries 
in Berlin, and if he chooses to devote a portion of his 
time to out-door work he can study the monuments that 
are scattered through the city and in its vicinity. The 
tourist will enjoy a ride through the Thiergarten, or Park, 
and the admirer of wild beasts can feast his eyes on 
one of the finest zoological collections of modern times. 
The sights of Berlin can be "seen in a hurried way in three 
or four days, like those of Paris, but a fortnight can be 
passed there to advantage. 

The principal excursion from Berlin is to Potsdam, a 
ride of little more than half an hour. The town contains 
a few churches worth a passing glance, but the great 
object of interest is the Palace of Sans Souci and its 
surroundings. The whole may be seen in a day; it is 
advisable to engage a carriage before leaving the railway 
station, as the distances are long and the walks fatiguing. 
A local guide is also desirable, as he can make a great 
saving of time for the stranger. At every step the visitor 
will be reminded of Frederick the Great, and the tomb of 
that eccentric monarch may be seen in a vault under the 
pulpit of the Garrison Church. 

The route from Berlin will depend much on the plans 
which the tourist has formed before his arrival. He can 
8 



114 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

go in six hours to Hamburg, the principal seaport of 
Germany, owing its chief interest to its commerce with 
the rest of the world. In the other direction from Berlin 
(about four hours) we come to Dresden, generally regarded 
as the art center of Germany. Its picture gallery contains 
nearly two thousand paintings, mostly by famous artists, 
including the Sistine Madonna by Raphael, with its two 
cherubs, familiar to the majority of educated eyes. A list 
of the best of the paintings in Dresden would fill much 
more space than we can spare, and therefore strangers are 
referred to the official catalogue. The Museum should 
not be overlooked, and the famous Green Vaults will 
come next in order after the Gallery. Their collection of 
diamonds and other gems, of gold and silver work, carv- 
ings in ivory, etc., is without a superior in the whole world, 
and if the time of the traveler is limited he may wisely 
devote the whole of it to the Gallery and the Green Vaults 
alone. There are two or three churches worthy of inspec- 
tion, and the view from the Bruhl Terrace will leave a 
pleasant memory for the passing tourist. 

Among the German cities not yet mentioned we find 
Leipsic (four hours from Berlin), to which a few hours 
may be devoted. It is famous for its three great annual 
fairs, at which there is a large commerce, though much 
less than before the days of railways. They were insti- 
tuted hundreds of years ago, and were formerly visited by 
many thousands of merchants from all parts of Europe, 
and the bulk of the European fur trade is still conducted 
there. Leipsic is the center of the German book-trade, 
and contains more than sixty printing establishments and 
about three hundred shops for the sale of books. The 
battle of Leipsic, in which one hundred thousand men 
perished, was fought in October, 1813, and lasted four 
days ; the battlefield may be seen in a short drive outside 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 115 

the city, and the spot where thousands of French were 
drowned by the premature destruction of the bridge is 
just beyond the Ranstadt gate. 

Half way from Berlin to Leipsic is Wittenberg, once 
the residence of Martin Luther, and containing the church 
to whose door the reformer nailed his celebrated theses. 
Going west from Leipsic, we pass through Weimar, capi- 
tal of the grand duchy of Saxe-Weimar, and a charming 
old town, once the residence of Goethe and Schiller. 
Next is Erfurt, with its Cathedral and great bell ; then 
comes Gotha, with Ducal Palace and Museum, and then 
Eisenach, less famous for anything inside its walls than 
for the Wartburg, an old palace and castle on an eminence 
two miles away. We change trains at Bebra, and proceed 
through Fulda and one or two other pleasant towns to 
Frankfort-on-the-Main. Observe the monument to Guten- 
berg, the inventor of printing from movable types, and 
also that in memory of Goethe. Other sights of Frankfort 
are the old residence of the Rothschilds, the Cathedral, 
the Stadel Gallery, the Ariadneum, and the Cemetery. 
The view of the Bourse between noon and one P. M. is an 
interesting spectacle, as the most of the mercantile com- 
munity is assembled at that hour. 

Bremen (three hours from Hamburg and two from 
Hanover), is the second seaport in Germany; it is less 
attractive than Hamburg, as the shallowness of the river 
does not permit heavy ships to reach the city. The 
wharves of the New York and Bremen steamers are at 
Bremerhaven, forty miles below. The city contains a 
picturesque Rathhaus or Town Hall, a Cathedral, and a 
Museum, and there are some delightful promenades in the 
gardens occupying the old ramparts. A pleasant excur- 
sion may be made from Bremen or Hamburg to Heligo- 
land, an island off the coast, which has been an English 



116 POCKET GUIDE FOB EUKOPE. 

possession since 1807. The German language is spoken 
almost exclusively by the inhabitants, who are chiefly 
engaged in fishing. Heligoland is a popular resort of 
Germans during the summer, chiefly for its sea-bathing 
facilities. 

There are other places of interest in Germany, but we 
have already described more than the ordinary tourist is 
likely to see. The stranger who has visited Berlin, and 
afterwards gone to Leipsic and Dresden, will find it con- 
venient to continue in the direction of Prague (five to six 
hours), the capital of Bohemia, and abounding in histori- 
cal associations. It is finely situated in the valley of the 
Moldau, and has a population of nearly two hundred 
thousand. Its art collections are of little consequence, 
but it contains many ancient buildings, including the 
Rathhaus, the Teynkirche or old church of the Hussites, 
the Kynski Palace, the Church of St. Nicholas, the Burg 
or Imperial Palace, the Cathedral, and the Abbey of 
Strathow. The Hradschin is a fine old palace, which no 
visitor will neglect, and he will find much to attract 
his attention in the numerous monuments in the public 
squares, and also in the bridges that span the river. 
Visit the Josephstadt, or Jews' Quarter, and if time per- 
mits take a walk through the Jewish Burial Ground. 
John Huss was a professor in the University of Prague, 
and his principal work as a reformer was conducted 
there. 



CHAPTER X. 

THE AUSTRIAN EMPIRE. THE DANUBE, 
SOUTHERN RUSSIA, AND CON- 
STANTINOPLE. 

About five hours' ride from Prague, in a northwesterly 
direction, is the famous health resort of Carlsbad. The 
town has twelve thousand inhabitants, and there are dou- 
ble that number of visitors every year ; so that the place 
appears to the stranger to be principally made up of 
hotels, boarding-houses, and baths. The waters are said 
to possess great merit in diseases of the stomach, liver, 
and kidneys, and their patrons come from all parts of 
Europe, and frequently from America. There are several 
springs, the oldest and hottest (165 Fahrenheit) being 
the Sprudel. It has been known for three or four hun- 
dred years, and flows with great steadiness and a large 
volume. The principal ingredients of the waters are sul- 
phate of soda, carbonate of soda, and common salt. The 
town is prettily situated in a small valley, and there are 
many pleasant promenades in the neighborhood. 

From Prague to Vienna there are three routes, as fol- 
lows : By Brunn (two hundred and forty-five miles), by 
Gmund (two hundred and seventeen miles), and by Znaim 
(two hundred and thirty miles). The time varies from 
eight to twelve hours, according to the route and the char- 
acter of the train, and the fares are very nearly the same. 
The most interesting route is by Brunn, as it abounds in 
picturesque scenery and passes several towns, of which 



118 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Brunn is the largest. It is the capital of the province of 
Moravia, and is overlooked by the Spielberg hill and cit- 
adel, where Baron Trenck died a prisoner, and where Sil- 
vio Pellico was confined for eight years. Near Vienna 
the train passes the battlefield of Wagram, where the 
French defeated the Austrians in 1809. The battlefield 
of Koniggratz can be reached by a branch from the main 
line at Pardubitz (fifteen miles). 

On arriving at Vienna secure a fiacre (cab), and drive 
to the hotel you have previously selected, unless you find 
its omnibus at the station. Every cab carries a printed 
tariff, which the driver is bound to exhibit when called 
for. The omnibus charge will be included in your hotel 
bill, and the conductor will attend to your baggage. 
Prices for rooms, lights, -and attendance are about the 
same as for similar accommodations in Paris, and all the 
servants expect fees for real or imaginary services. Some 
of the larger hotels have table d'hote or prix fixe dinners, 
but it is not generally expected that the traveler will take 
his meals in the house. Restaurants are numerous and 
cheap. The bill of fare is limited, and includes several 
mysterious and peppery compounds, with tongue-twisting 
names. Beer flows abundantly, and is the natural bever- 
age of the Viennese. In settling your bill at restaurant 
or bier halle you pay the " zoll-kellner" (pay-waiter), whose 
official badge is a leathern bag for carrying copper coin. 
He expects a few kreutzers for each settlement ; and in 
the larger establishments he pays the wages of the wait- 
ers, and sometimes gives a handsome bonus for his place, 
in addition to receiving no salary for himself. There are 
many cafes, and the lover of music can always find a 
grand concert in the evening at some of the " Gartens," or 
at the Colosseum, or Neue "Welt. 

The old or inner city of Vienna is called the " Stadt," 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 119 

and was surrounded by walls until 1848, when their demo- 
lition was begun. Portions of the space thus gained have 
been utilized for the erection of handsome buildings, and 
the rest converted into a series of fine streets, called 
" The Ring." The Stadt is small, and reminds the stran- 
ger of " the city " of London. Nine-tenths of the eight 
hundred thousand inhabitants of Vienna are outside the 
Stadt and included within " the lines." With its outly- 
ing suburbs Vienna has a population of considerably more 
than a million. The stranger should drive around The 
Ring for a first view of Vienna; or, if economically 
inclined, he may make the journey by tramway. The 
tram-cars of Vienna have designated points for halting, 
and will not stop between the stations. There are plenty 
of omnibuses to the suburbs, their principal starting- 
point being in the Stephan's Platz, and other public 
squares. 

The most interesting streets are the Graben and Kohl- 
markt, the former being specially attractive, by reason of 
its superior width. It is said to have been the moat of 
the fortifications of Vienna during the twelfth century. 
Near one end of the Graben is the Stephan's Platz, in 
which is the famous church of St. Stephen, the finest 
building of its kind in Vienna and one of the noted 
churches of Europe. The original church was erected on 
this site in the twelfth century, but the present edifice 
dates from the fourteenth, fifteenth, and sixteenth centuries. 
During the last twenty-five years the building has been 
extensively repaired, and many crumbling portions have 
been thoroughly restored. Both in its exterior and inte- 
rior ornamentation the church is of the highest character. 
Its walls are massive ; the nave is lofty and imposing, 
and the tower disputes with the towers of Cologne, Stras- 
burg, and Rouen the honor of being the highest in 
Europe. 



120 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

The Imperial Hofburg, usually called " The Burg," has 
been the home of royalty and imperialism for four or five 
centuries. It is in the Stadt, and is somewhat irregular 
in form, on account of its construction having embraced 
several periods. Portions of the ground it encloses are 
open to the public. They are adorned with monuments 
in memory of some of the rulers of Austria, and the walls 
fronting on the squares are of massive construction. 
Strangers are admitted to the Library, Treasury, Museum, 
and other collections, on presentation of their cards, or by 
tickets easily procured from the custodian. There are 
some ancient manuscripts in the Library and magnificent 
specimens of minerals in the Museum of Geology. The 
Treasury is the most interesting collection for the general 
visitor, as it includes gold and silver work of enormous 
value, together with diamonds and precious stones suffi- 
cient to found a kingdom. The Austrian crown jewels 
are kept here, and among them is the famous Florentine 
Diamond, once belonging to Charles the Bold, and lost 
by him at the battle of Morat. In another room are the 
crown and scepter of Charlemagne and the sabre of 
Haroun-al-Raschid, together with other relics of great his- 
torical value. The cabinet of coins and antiques adjoin- 
ing the treasury is one of the finest in Europe. 

A mile or more from the Stephan's Platz, and easily" 
reached by carriage or omnibus, is the Belvedere, which 
consists of two buildings, the Upper and Lower Belve- 
dere, with a fine garden between them. The Upper Bel- 
vedere contains a magnificent picture gallery, embracing 
all the famous schools of art, with works by the most 
prominent artists. The Lower Belvedere contains a col- 
lection of Egyptian and other antiquities, and a fine array 
of ancient and medieval armor, which was brought from 
the chateau of Ambras in the Tyrol in 1806. There are 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 121 

also many works of art, including carvings in wood and 
ivory, vases and dishes of gold, silver, and crystal, with 
numerous other things of interest. The Lichtenstein Gal- 
lery is the largest private collection in Vienna, and includes 
some fourteen hundred works of the best artists. Rubens 
and Van Dyke are liberally represented. 

The Prater is an immense park, more than three miles 
in length, on the southern side of Vienna. It is finely 
laid out, and has been a public resort since 1766. Before 
that date it was for two centuries a hunting-ground for 
the imperial family. The walks and drives in the Prater 
are unequalled by those of any other park of Europe. In 
the vicinity of Vienna are the palaces and parks of 
Schoenbrunn and Laxenburg, and many public resorts 
where the visitor will never be at a loss for amusement. 
The sights of Vienna are so numerous that one may 
easily spend a couple of weeks there, and find enough 
to occupy his time. 

The stranger who approaches Vienna from the west 
will do well to leave the railway at Passau or Linz and 
descend the Danube to the Austrian capital. From Pas- 
sau to Linz is a ride of four and one-half hours, the boat 
leaving usually at two P. M. The scenery on this part of 
the river is magnificent, as the Danube winds between 
mountains and passes several old castles, until on approach- 
ing Linz it suddenly emerges into a broad plain. From 
Linz to Vienna is a steamboat journey of eight or nine 
hours, far preferable to the railway, though a little longer. 
Towns and villages are numerous, and there are several 
castles more or less in ruins. In one of these castles 
(Durrenstein) Richard Cceur de Lion was kept a prisoner 
for fifteen months, and was discovered by his faithful 
Blondel through the performance of an air on a lute. 
Stein, Grein, and Und are below Durrenstein, and gave 



122 POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 

rise to the German witticism, " Stein Und Grein sind drei 
Orte." Just before reaching Vienna we pass the Kahlen- 
berg, a rounded hill whose summit is reached by an 
inclined railway. 

Descending the Danube from Vienna to Pesth, the 
tourist will find large and comfortable steamboats that 
make the journey in about twelve hours. More than half 
the country along the river is flat and uninteresting, but 
there are some pretty bits of scenery between Vienna and 
Pressburg, and lower down, between Komorn and Pesth. 
Pressburg, forty miles below Vienna, is the old capital of 
Hungary, and the kings were formerly crowned there; 
there is a fine view from the Schlossberg, crowned by the 
ruins of the Royal Palace, which was burned in 1811, and 
there are pleasant promenades in the neighborhood of the 
city. At Komorn is an extensive fortress, which played a 
prominent part in the war of 1849; as we approach Pesth 
the hills enclose the river on both sides, and the last two 
hours of the ride are more interesting than any other. 
Pesth is an important city, with large commercial interests ; 
its progress has been so rapid in the last twenty years 
that it has been called " the Chicago of Europe." On the 
opposite bank of the Danube is Buda or Ofen; in 1873 
the two cities were united into one municipality under the 
name of " Buda-Pest," and large sums have been expended 
in public works for the combined interest of the two 
sections. The population is about three hundred thou- 
sand, and rapidly increasing ; the grain trade has reached 
enormous proportions. A suspension bridge was thrown 
over the Danube between Pesth and Of en in 1849, and 
two other bridges (one for the railway only) have been 
recently completed. There are many fine buildings, all of 
modern construction. There is an excellent picture-gal- 
lery, and the city abounds in monuments. Above the 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 123 

city is an island (the Margarethen-Insel) beautifully laid 
out into a park at great expense, and liberally provided 
with baths, restaurants, and music-gardens. On the Ofen 
side of the river are several bathing establishments, sup- 
plied with hot water from natural sources ; these springs 
have some sanitary repute, and were known to the Romans. 
Two of them were founded by the Turks, and portions of 
their buildings are still in use. 

We can return from Pesth to Vienna in seven hours by 
rail, — best views on the left of the train. The country is 
generally flat, and in the early autumn we seem to be 
passing through a sea of ripening grain. At several points 
there are villages and chateaus, and a part of the way the 
route lies through the extensive possessions of Prince 
Esterhazy. Near Pressburg the eye rests on a long suc- 
cession of vineyards. Another and longer route (twelve 
hours) will carry us from Ofen to Vienna, but it is unad- 
visable, as it possesses nothing of interest, and makes no 
compensation for the additional time required. 

The majority of travelers who go to Pesth return to 
Vienna by one of the routes mentioned or by the river 
(the latter tedious), while a few push on to other parts of 
Hungary or descend the Danube to the Black Sea, whence 
they proceed to Russia or to Constantinople. There is 
not much in Hungary to interest the stranger after he has 
finished with Buda-Pest, and he will find himself scantily 
repaid for long excursions away from the Danube. The 
best plan is to descend the river to Orsova, passing 
Semlin, Belgrade, and Basiasch, by an express steamer 
which makes only the principal landings ; the only place 
on the route worth a delay is Belgrade, which has an 
extensive fortress, and is the capital of Servia. The 
express steamer will make the journey in thirty-six to forty 
hours, while the ordinary steamer consumes fifty to sixty 



124 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

hours. By rail from Orsova to Pesth, via Temesvar 
(three hundred and five miles), in ten to fifteen hours. 
Between Basiasch and Orsova is the Defile of Kasan, 
where the river passes through a chain of mountains piled 
picturesquely on either side. The scenery here is the 
finest on the entire Danube. The descent is easily made 
in times of high water, but when the river is low passen- 
gers are carried by land over a considerable portion of the 
route. 

Below Orsova is the celebrated Demi Kapou, or Iron 
Gate of the Danube, where the river is compressed into a 
channel two hundred and ten yards in width, with a fall 
of sixteen feet in two miles. The Romans began the 
construction of a canal around the Iron Gates, and the 
work has been much discussed in the present century, but 
political reasons have prevented its completion. From 
this point to the Black Sea there are no further obstruc- 
tions to navigation, and the route of the river boats 
continues to Galatz, ninety miles above the mouth of the 
Danube. Rustchuk is the principal town passed on the 
right bank ; there is a railway hence to Varna (eight 
hours), and from Varna a steamship will carry you in 
fourteen hours to Constantinople. Through tickets by 
this route may be bought in Paris, Vienna, Berlin, and 
other cities, and for one who dislikes the sea and does 
not object to a few inconveniences it is a desirable road 
to the Turkish capital. Opposite Rustchuk is Gurgievo, 
whence we may go by rail (two hours) to Bucharest, the 
capital of Roumania. The city (population two hundred 
thousand) is large and generally well built; it has con- 
siderable commercial activity, and is sometimes called 
the "Link between the Occident and Orient." Though 
founded in the twelfth century, it possesses few relics of 
antiquity, and the chief interest to the stranger is in the 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 125 

union between the West and the East that he sees in its 
streets and shops. 

Steamers go from Galatz to Odessa in about forty hours, 
leaving the Danube just below Sulina, an insignificant 
town which has attracted little attention since the Crimean 
War. Travelers going to Russia should see that their 
passports are en regie ; the proper visas should be ob- 
tained through the American Legation at Vienna before 
leaving that city, and the tourist may thus save himself a 
vexatious delay. The Russian representative at Bucha- 
rest or Galatz can (for a fee of five or ten francs) pass the 
traveler if he has neglected to attend to the matter earlier. 
From Odessa the Crimea may be visited with ease ; steam- 
ers to Sevastopol in eighteen hours, whence there is a 
railway to the north, or you may drive by carriage to 
Balaclava and Yalta, a delightful and picturesque ride, 
and there catch the returning steamer to Odessa or turn 
aside to the railway. From Odessa there is continuous 
railway connection to Kiev, Moscow, and St. Petersburg. 

With a flying leap we are back in Vienna, ready to turn 
our faces to the west or north. In the latter direction we 
ride in ten or twelve hours through an uninteresting coun- 
try to Cracow (two hundred and fifty-five miles), the ancient 
capital of Poland, and the scene of the coronation of its 
kings down to 1764. It belongs now to Austria, and has 
a population of about fifty thousand. There are several 
fine buildings, of which the Cathedral and St. Mary's 
Church are most worthy of inspection. The Salt Mines 
of Wielizka are sixteen miles away and reached by railway 
in half an hour. They are nine hundred feet deep, in 
seven levels or stories, and the annual yield of salt is 
about forty thousand tons. The passages, stairs, bridges, 
etc., are estimated at nearly four hundred miles of linear 
measure. There is a regular tariff for visitors, which is 



126 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

graded according to the amount of the illumination, and 
about three hours are devoted to a visit to the mines. The 
mine contains two chapels, with altars and statues hewn 
from the solid salt, and there are several ponds which are 
crossed by boats. 

From Cracow we can go to Warsaw, the capital of 
Russian Poland, where a day will suffice for the palace, 
cathedral, and other sights. From Warsaw there is a 
railway to St. Petersburg by Vilna, and another via 
Smolensk to Moscow. We will, look at Russia on a 
subsequent page. 

From Vienna westward we go by rail to Linz, the point 
whence we descended the Danube by steamer. There are 
two routes from Linz to Munich, one via Simbach, and 
the , other through Salzburg. The latter place has a 
delightful situation on the banks of the Salzach, with two 
castle-crowned hills to watch over it. The streets are 
clean and well laid out, and the authorities have made 
liberal expenditures, with the view of attracting numer- 
ous visitors. Their efforts have been successful, and 
Salzburg is now a fashionable resort during the summer 
months. There are numerous excursions among the hills 
in the immediate vicinity. Continuing towards Munich, 
we pass through Traunstein and Rosenheim, both pretty 
towns with salt-works and salt-baths, but no other attrac- 
tions beyond the scenery around them. 

To a point forty miles from Linz the Salzburg and 
Simbach routes are one. The Simbach route is less 
attractive than the other, but is the one principally fol- 
lowed by the through trains between Strasburg and 
Vienna. There is no place worth a halt, unless the trav- 
eler has abundant time and wishes to study the people 
and scenery of the country. In that case he may stop at 
Simbach, Braunau, Ried, and Muhldorf, all manufacturing 



Docket guide for Europe. 127 

towns prettily situated on or near the river Inn. Munich 
will be sure to detain him at least a day or two, as its art 
collections are famous throughout the world, and the out- 
door attractions of the city are of no common character. 
A week may be spent here to good advantage, if it can 
possibly be taken from the limited time of a tourist. The 
city is on the banks of the Iser, and not far from the 
Alps. Its population is about 200,000, and the expenses 
of living are not so great as in the other European capi- 
tals. There are many students of art constantly in 
Munich, and a goodly portion of them are from America. 
The enumeration of the art attractions of Munich 
would fill several pages. We will briefly mention the 
principal sights, which include the Old Pinakothek (four- 
teen hundred paintings arranged in nine saloons and 
twenty-three cabinets) ; the New Pinakothek (modern 
paintings and a collection of antiquities) ; the Glyptothek, 
or Repository of Sculptures (ancient sculptures in a build- 
ing constructed after the Greek models) ; the Exhibition 
Hall, opposite the Glyptothek, and used for the display of 
the works of Munich artists ; the Propylge, a gateway 
between the Glyptothek and Exhibition Hall, in imitation 
of that of the Acropolis at Athens ; the National Museum ; 
the Ludwigskirche, a handsome church containing the 
fresco of " The Last Judgment " ; the Siegesthor, or Gate 
of Victory ; the Royal Library ; the Festsaalbau, or 
Building of Festal Halls ; the Royal Palace, with the 
Treasury and Reiche Capelle ; Count Schack's Picture 
Gallery ; the Schwanthaler Museum ; and the Hall of 
Fame, with the colossal Statue of Bavaria in front. In 
going about the city, give attention to the statues and 
monuments in the public squares and other places. The 
evening may be passed at the theater, or at one of the 
many gardens, where the music and beer are both excel- 



128 POCKET GUIDE FOE EUROPE* 

lent. The Hofbrauhaus, where everybody is his own 
waiter, is one of the attractions of Munich, and is said to 
produce the best beer in the city. You buy the beer at 
the bench where it is drawn, and when the mug needs 
replenishing you must carry it yourself to the drawing- 
place. There are delightful promenades in the English 
Garden and to several points in the neighborhood of 
Munich. 

From the capital of Munich we can go by rail to Ratis- 
bon, or Regensburg, to see the fine cathedral and the 
Walhalla or Temple of Fame, and thence to Nuremburg, 
one of the best preserved of the medieval cities of Ger- 
many, and the finest example now extant of a walled 
town. It contains several churches deserving a visit and 
a castle in Gothic style dating from 1024, and recently 
restored. Many of the private houses are of venerable 
appearance and of a style of architecture that is fast dis- 
appearing. From Nuremberg we can go to Stuttgart, a 
charming city beautifully situated, but possessing few 
ancient buildings or other " sights " to attract the ordi- 
nary tourist. When we have finished with Stuttgart we 
can proceed to Strasburg or Heidelberg (already de- 
scribed), or can enter Switzerland in the region of Lake 
Constance. 



CHAPTER XL 

THE SOUTH OF FRANCE. A TOUR THROUGH 

SPAIN. 

The tourist who wishes to study France before or after 
seeing the other countries of Europe will find no difficulty 
in doing so. We have looked at Paris and its environs in 
a previous chapter, and have glanced at Havre, Rouen, 
and some other points. If we go south by the great rail- 
way to Lyons and Marseilles we pass Macon and Dijon, 
as already stated. If we stop at Lyons we shall wish to 
see the cathedral and one or two other churches, the 
Hotel de Ville and Museum, and must not neglect to 
walk or ride to Notre Dame de Fourvieres. The latter 
point is on the summit of a hill, three hundred and fifty 
feet above the valley of the Saone, and commands a mag- 
nificent view of the city and a wide expanse of the sur- 
rounding country. Many visitors to Lyons are doomed 
to disappointment in their search for the silk factories. 
The weaving is not performed in large establishments, as 
in England and America, but at the homes of the work- 
men, and the stranger will hunt in vain for a factory on a 
large scale. It is said that there are not far from one 
hundred thousand looms in Lyons, and nearly a quarter 
of a million of people in and near the city are supported 
by the silk industry. 

About two-thirds of the way from Lyons to Marseilles 
we come to Avignon, which is picturesquely situated on 
the Rhone, and has the usual equipment of public library, 
9 (129) 



130 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

museum of antiquities, and picture gallery, none of them 
of great consequence. There are some ancient buildings 
more or less in ruins. The most interesting is the old 
Palace of the Popes, now used as a prison and military 
barrack. Avignon was at two periods the seat of the 
Romish Church, and twenty-one ecclesiastical councils 
were held there between A. D. 1050 and 1725. Its popu- 
lation in the fourteenth century was more than double its 
present figure (forty thousand). Marseilles will easily 
repay a visit of a day ; and a couple of days may be well 
employed if they include a visit to the Chateau dTf, which 
Dumas has graphically described in The Count of Monte 
Christo. See the New Harbor, which is of artificial con- 
struction and of great extent, and take a short drive along 
the coast towards Nice. The public buildings are not 
worth inspection. Between Marseilles and the Italian 
frontier we find Cannes, Nice, Hyeres, Mentone, and 
other winter resorts. Nice is the most fashionable and 
has the largest number of patrons. Each of these places 
can prove mathematically that it is better for sanitary 
purposes than all the others combined, and the reader is 
referred to their special literature, which can be had in 
abundance. 

Leaving Paris by the Orleans " railway, we come to 
Orleans (sixty-eight miles), on the right bank of the Loire, 
and prettily situated. It contains a fine cathedral, begun 
in the thirteenth century, partly destroyed by the Hugue- 
nots, and subsequently rebuilt. Two or three other 
churches, the Hotel de Ville, and the houses of Francis I. 
and Agnes Sorel will repay a visit. From Orleans we go 
to Bordeaux, a commercial city of the first importance. It 
is on the banks of the Garonne, sixty miles from the sea, 
and is one of the best built cities of Europe. Its com- 
merce extends all over the globe, though it is principally 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 131 

with England and the United States, and there is a con- 
siderable amount of ship-building. The squares, gardens, 
and streets are handsome, the quays are long and finely 
built, the theatre, bourse, and other public buildings are 
commodious and tasteful, and the lover of old churches 
will be charmed with the cathedral and the churches of 
St. Michel and St. Croix. There was a city here (Burdi- 
gala) before the Roman occupation by the emperor 
Hadrian; and the antiquarian will be interested in the 
palace or amphitheater of Gallienus and a few other 
Roman remains. The wines of Bordeaux have become 
familiar as household words in the mouths of many Amer- 
icans. 

Continuing southward we reach Bayonne, a handsome 
commercial port, where the bayonet was invented, but 
without any architectural interest. Six miles from Bay- 
onne is Biarritz, a watering-place on the Bay of Biscay, 
which is said to have a delightful climate, can boast of 
charming views of the Pyrenees, and has excellent facilities 
for sea-bathing. It was a favorite resort of Napoleon III. 
and the Empress Eugenie during the days of their glory, 
and is still blessed with many visitors. The air of Biar- 
ritz is said to be more bracing than that of Pau, which is 
in the same department (Basse Pyrenees), sixty miles from 
Bayonne, and is a place of great resort in winter. As a 
residence Pau is preferable on account of its situation and 
general attractions, which include many charming walks 
and drives, and visits to the Castle of Henry IV. and 
other interesting public buildings. There is a handsome 
park, and a club to which strangers are admitted on 
presentation by a member. The Pyrenees are forty miles 
from Pau, and the elevated situation of the place is said 
to be favorable to diseases of the chest. 

At Biarritz we are close to the Spanish frontier, and 



132 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

can enter the land of bull-fights if we choose. It is not 
advisable to visit Spain in summer, as the climate is hot 
and unhealthy ; October is quite early enough to go there 
and the stranger should aim to be out of the country not, 
later than the end of April. In the upper country it is 
unpleasantly cold during the winter months, and the winds 
are violent ; one called the gallego causes diseases of the 
eyes, and is said to be so fierce at times as to blow the hai 
from the back of a dog. Spring and autumn are generally 
delightful. Traveling is dearer than in France, and it is a 
common remark that Madrid is the most expensive capital 
of Europe for a foreigner to sojourn in, with the possible 
exception of St. Petersburg. The railway trains are slow 
and their fares high. Accommodations on them are poor, 
especially for ladies and families, and the hotels are 
generally uninviting and not much to the taste of one 
who is at all fastidious. The nervous American is often 
inclined to lose his temper, as the Spaniards cannot be 
hurried by anything short of exploding a torpedo beneath 
them, and not always then. Provide yourself with a liberal 
stock of patience before starting for a journey in Spain. 

Leaving Biarritz for Spain, we reach the frontier at 
Irun, a pretty town of three thousand inhabitants. From 
this point to Madrid is a railway journey of three hundred 
and ninety-five miles, and if time is not precious we may 
halt at Burgos and Valladolid. Burgos was the capital of 
the kingdom and province of Old Castile, and has about 
thirteen thousand inhabitants. Part of the town is on a 
hill slope, and the whole situation is exceedingly pictur- 
esque. There is a large cathedral, a ruined castle crowns 
the hill dominating the town, and there are several public 
buildings of magnificent proportions. Valladolid is the 
capital of the province of the same name, and considerably 
larger than Burgos ; it is built in a broad valley and on 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 133 

both banks of a river, with several bridges to unite the 
two sections. There is an old palace and an unfinished 
cathedral, and many of the sidewalks are sheltered by- 
arcades. If we desire a specimen of a Spanish town of 
the middle ages, with its walls well preserved, we can stop 
at Avila for a few hours ; the walls are pierced with nine 
gates, and the Cathedral is a vast structure in the Gothic 
style. There is much picturesque scenery along the line 
of railway in this part of Spain, but the country has 
frequently a desolate appearance, and the stranger won- 
ders how the people can manage to subsist. 

We can visit the Escorial on the way to Madrid, or 
leave it for a special excursion from the capital ; if time 
presses the first-named plan is preferable. It is about 
thirty miles from Madrid, and a day may be easily passed 
in its inspection. The Spaniards consider it one of the 
wonders of the world, and it is beyond question a remark- 
able pile. Philip II. built it in 1565 in obedience to a vow 
he made to San Lorenzo before the battle of San Quentin, 
and instructed the architect to design it in the form of the 
gridiron on which that holy man was broiled. There are 
seventeen rows of buildings, to represent the bars of the 
gridiron, crossing each other at right angles, and there are 
towers at the corner to indicate the upturned feet of that 
kitchen utensil. The whole structure is seven hundred 
and forty feet long by five hundred and eighty broad, and 
there is a wing four hundred and sixty feet long to 
represent the handle of the gridiron. The whole edifice 
contains a palace, a royal chapel, a monastery with two 
hundred cells, and an almost interminable number of halls 
and rooms for various uses. There are four thousand 
windows, fourteen gates, and eighty-six fountains ; the 
work was carried on for twenty-one years, at a cost of 
nearly twenty million dollars, and the church in the center 



134 POCKET GUIDE FOE EUROPE. 

of the Escorial would be by itself a structure of no 
ordinary consequence. The tombs of the Spanish rulers 
since Charles V. are in this church, that of the founder 
being the most elaborate. 

Madrid is in the middle of a large plain, which is some- 
what broken at and near the capital ; the city has a popula- 
tion of nearly four hundred thousand, and its palaces are 
on a magnificent scale. Many of the streets are wide and 
the drives are among the finest in Europe ; on pleasant 
afternoons there is a gorgeous display of carriages drawn 
by the horses for which Spain is famous, and occupied by 
dark-eyed beauties in the picturesque costume of the land. 
Near the center of the city is the Puerto del Sol, a large 
square enclosed with fine buildings, and often crowded 
with all classes of the population till a late hour of the 
evening. The Manzanares River flows past the city at 
certain seasons ; it has the reputation of becoming so dry 
in summer that its bed must be sprinkled to keep down 
the dust. The principal streets radiate from the Puerto 
del Sol, and the stranger will find it best to establish him- 
self at one of the hotels near that place. 

The Royal Picture Gallery is one of the largest and 
finest in the world; there are more than two thousand 
paintings of the highest class, including forty-six works of 
Murillo, sixty-five of Velasquez, fifty-eight of Ribera, ten 
of Raphael, sixty-four of Rubens, sixty of Teniers, forty- 
three of Titian, thirty-four of Tintoretto, and twenty-five 
of Paul Veronese. The Royal Palace covers an area of 
two hundred and twenty thousand square feet, and is 
an enormous edifice of granite and white marble, on 
the site of a Moorish alcazar. The interior decorations 
include frescoes and paintings by famous artists of Spain 
and other countries, and the Palace Library contains more 
than one hundred thousand volumes and many manuscripts 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 185 

of great value. The Armeria Real, or Royal Armory, is 
a magnificent collection, and among the articles displayed 
there are the suits of armor worn by Christopher Colum- 
bus, Hernando Cortes, and other men whose names are 
famous in Spanish history. Do not fail to see the Royal 
Stables and their collection of carriages, and if you are 
numismatically inclined you must visit the collection of 
coins in the Palace Museum. The churches are not 
particularly interesting, but it is worth while to visit a 
few of them, particularly San Francisco, the handsomest, 
and St. Atocha, famous for its miracle-working image, 
whose praises have been sounded by devout poets and 
others for many years. If you are in Madrid in the 
bull-fighting season visit the Plaza de Toros for a glimpse 
at the national amusement of Spain. Be sure and get a 
seat in the shade {al sombra), and if you are a party buy 
a box and go early. The chances are many that you will 
not remain long ; the performances are generally disgust- 
ing to an American, and he is glad to escape from the 
spectacle of horses blindfolded and then gored to death 
by the bulls. The sport is less fashionable than formerly; 
the royal family never goes to witness a bull-fight, and 
the best people of the city follow their example. Occa- 
sionally the bulls kill their human assailants, and a priest 
is always waiting at the side of the ring to administer the 
last sacrament, provided there is sufficient time for it. 
An incident of this kind is not allowed to interfere with 
the sport. 

From Madrid to the south of Spain the best plan is to 
visit Toledo, which is reached by a branch fourteen miles 
long, and then to proceed on the main line without return- 
ing to the capital. Just before reaching the branch we 
come to Aranjuez, where there is an immense palace and 
some fine gardens ; there is a grand view from the roof of 



136 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

the palace or from its upper windows, embracing the 
valley of the Tagus and portions of the provinces of 
New Castile and Aragon, and in a fine day the prospect 
covers an immense area. All around the city there are 
extensive gardens, and the situation is the more striking on 
account of the broad waste that surrounds it. Toledo is 
on a rocky hill above the windings of the Tagus, and is 
protected by walls in the most exposed positions. The 
architecture of the houses has many Moorish features, as 
they are mostly built around courtyards, with fountains in 
the center. The Cathedral is large and one of the hand- 
somest in the country, and there are several other churches 
worthy of note. The Royal Palace is in a half-ruined 
condition, but is sufficiently well preserved to indicate its 
former greatness. The traveler who desires a genuine 
sword of Toledo may find it here, and he may visit the 
factory where the weapon is made if he has the time to 
spare. It is about two miles from the city, on the banks 
of the Tagus, but the articles it produces are much infe- 
rior to the original blades which made the fame of the 
place of their manufacture. 

Returning to the main line, we take the train to San 
Juan, where we change for Cordova and Seville. There 
are several towns on the route, but none are of importance 
if the traveler is at all in a hurry ; they have a general 
resemblance to each other, and a view of one will answer 
for all. Cordova has a fine situation on the banks of the 
Guadalquivir; its chief attraction is its wonderful Cathe- 
dral, which was formerly a Moorish mosque, and was 
converted into a Christian church after the expulsion of 
the Moors from Spain. The city is surrounded by walls 
partly Roman and partly Moorish, with occasional restora- 
tions by the Spaniards. There is a bridge over the river 
with Moorish arches on Roman foundations, and many 



POCKET GUIDE FOB EUROPE. 137 

traces of the Roman occupation may be seen in a drive 
through the town. 

From Cordova we have two routes to choose from. 
We may go to Malaga, making a detour on the way to 
Grenada and its celebrated Alhambra, or we may go to 
Seville (four hours), and thence (in five hours) to Cadiz. 
A good plan is to go directly through to Cadiz from 
Madrid or Toledo, and then return to Seville and after- 
wards to Cordova. Or we may visit Cordova, Seville, 
and Cadiz in succession, go thence to Gibraltar, and from 
Gibraltar to Malaga and Grenada. The ride from Cor- 
dova to Seville is through a pretty country, with frequent 
groves of orange, olive, and other trees. Seville has a 
population of one hundred and forty thousand, and the 
majority of its houses are in the Moorish style; the 
Cathedral is the most important of all the churches of 
Seville, and is on the site of the Grand Mosque erected 
by the Moors. The organ of the cathedral is one of the 
largest in the world, and there are many fine paintings by 
Murillo and other celebrated artists. The Alcazar, or 
Moorish palace, is considered equal to the Alhambra of 
Grenada by many visitors. The tower called the Giralda 
(near the Cathedral) is three hundred and fifty feet high, 
and of Moorish construction ; an enormous figure in 
bronze on the top is said to turn with the wind. The 
Government Tobacco Factory is worth an inspection, and 
the lover of the bull-ring can here see one that will hold 
twelve thousand spectators. A day will be sufficient for 
the sights of Seville, but if we are not in a hurry we shall 
find a longer stay agreeable, as there are charming walks 
and drives in and about the city. The guides at the hotel 
will arrange for us to witness a dance of Spanish gypsies 
at a reasonable price. 

On the road from Seville to Cadiz we can halt at Jerez (or 



138 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Xerez), a pretty town on an elevation above the valley of the 
Guadelete. Great quantities of wine are produced in the 
neighborhood, and the word " sherry " is a corruption of 
the name of the place whence the beverage is supposed 
to come. If we can obtain admission to the immense 
cellars where the wine is stored we shall see something of 
interest. About two miles from the town there is a cele- 
brated monastery built in the Doric style of architecture, 
and abounding in statues, many of them of a high order 
of merit. At Cadiz we are in a Spanish seaport, and one 
of the oldest cities of Europe; it was founded by the 
Phoenecians about noo b. c, and has been successively 
held by the Carthaginians, Romans, Goths, Arabs, and 
Spaniards, and besieged by the English and French. It 
is on a promontory which gives it a great sea-front in 
proportion to its size, and has a clean appearance on 
account of the material used for building purposes. It 
has one bull-ring, two theaters, two cathedrals, several 
other churches, and thirteen convents. We may go hence 
by steamer to nearly all parts of the world ; the commerce 
of Cadiz is important, and the city holds the undisputed 
rank of being the first port of Spain. 

From Cadiz the traveler may visit Lisbon by sea or rail. 
The former is preferable, as the railway route is long and 
there is not much to see on the way. The position of 
Lisbon is one of the most picturesque in the world ; the 
city is built on a series of hills and rises in an amphi- 
theater, and the harbor is one of the most capacious in 
Europe, though too much exposed to the wind to give 
entire safety to ships. There are the usual sights of a 
large city, — cathedrals, palaces, churches, and other public 
buildings, — and the melancholy interest of the stranger is 
roused on seeing traces of the great earthquake of 1755, 
in which forty thousand persons perished. There is direct 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 139 

communication by rail from Lisbon to Oporto and otner 
cities of Portugal, and also to Madrid. Several lines of 
mail steamers touch here or make it their point of depart- 
ure, so that the tourist will have no difficulty in making 
up his route. If we have come from Cadiz we shall 
naturally proceed northward to Oporto or eastward to 
Madrid ; — if our arrival was from the latter city, we will 
go south to the part of Spain nearest the Mediterranean. 

From Cadiz to Gibraltar is a run of six or eight hours 
by steamer.— We enter the Straits and turn around the 
point of Europe to the great rock which is considered one 
of the strongest fortresses in the world. There is little to 
see at Gibraltar except the fortifications and the rock on 
which they stand ; the excursion on the back of a donkey 
and with a guide will take about four hours. We shall 
verify the truth of the saying that Gibraltar is a vast 
honeycomb, in which each cell is occupied by a cannon, 
and as we look from the platform on the summit of 
the rock our vision embraces two continents, an ocean, 
and a sea. If we have a couple of days to spare we can 
go to Tangier (thirty miles) and get a glimpse of life in a 
Moorish city ; if ladies are of the party they can visit a 
harem through the influence of the guide or the hotel- 
keeper, but the bearded sex will not be thus favored. 

Seven hours by steamer carry us from Gibraltar to 
Malaga, whence we may go by rail to Grenada. The 
sights of the latter city are the Alhambra, of which all 
the world has heard, and the Cathedral, a magnificent 
structure, containing the tombs of Ferdinand and Isabella, 
and other Spanish rulers, together with many fine paint- 
ings. There are few sights at Malaga beyond the location 
of the city, but of course the stranger will take in the 
Cathedral, which contains some good paintings ; the cli- 
mate of Malaga is extremely mild in winter, and for this 



140 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

reason it is a favorite health resort for English and 
American invalids. The country back of Malaga pro- 
duces wine, oil, raisins, figs, almonds, oranges, lemons, 
limes, and other tropical or semi-tropical fruits, and the 
chief trade is in the exportation of these articles. From 
Malaga we may proceed along the coast by steamer to 
Almeria, Cartagena, Alicante, and Valentia, and from the 
latter point we have choice of railway or steamer to 
Barcelona, and thence to Perpignan and to France. 

At present the only lines of railway between France 
and Spain are those passing by Irun on the north or 
Perpignan on the south. A convention has been arranged 
for piercing the Pyrenees • about midway of the great 
isthmus; France and Spain have agreed to divide the 
expense of the work, and it will be placed under guaran- 
tees of neutrality similar to those relating to the Alpine 
tunnels. The completion of this enterprise will be an 
important event, as it will shorten the time and distance 
between Paris and Madrid and open up considerable areas 
of country to commerce. 



CHAPTER XII. 

BELGIUM AND HOLLAND. 

Belgium and Holland may be seen in a couple of weeks 
if the traveler is pressed for time ; but of course the 
greater number of days that can be devoted to them the 
better. Travelers from England in the direction of Bel- 
gium will land at Ostend by the route from London or 
Dover, or at Antwerp by steamer all the way from the 
British capital. If they prefer to visit Holland before 
Belgium they will take the direct route from London to 
Queensboro, thence by steamer to Vlissingue (Flushing), 
and from there by rail to Rotterdam. Or they may go by 
steamer to Rotterdam direct, or to Antwerp, and from 
Antwerp by rail in two hours to Rotterdam. If they 
come from France or Germany they will have no difficulty 
in arranging their routes, as there is a perfect network of 
railways through both Holland and Belgium, and a care- 
ful study of the map and time-table will enable a stranger 
to move about with great rapidity. In Holland it is well 
to try a ride in a canal boat, just for the novelty of it ; 
but a single experience will be quite sufficient, as this con- 
veyance is not noted for speed or comfort. 

The principal cities of Belgium that the tourist wishes 
to see may be briefly described, as they are neither large 
nor numerous. We will suppose we have landed at 
Ostend, either from one of the Dover steamers (five 
hours) or from a steamer of the General Navigation 
Company, which has been twelve hours on the way. 

(141) 



142 POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 

Ostend has about twenty thousand inhabitants, and is 
the second seaport of Belgium, Antwerp being the first. 
Its commerce is principally with London and other Eng- 
lish ports, and the number of continental passengers 
annually going through Ostend is very large. Of late 
years it has become quite fashionable as a watering-place, 
as it has good facilities for sea-bathing, and is easily 
reached from London or from Brussels. It has nearly 
two hundred fishing-boats, and more than half the sea-fish 
consumed in Belgium are caught by the Ostenders. The 
principal attractions are the Digue, or dike, which fronts 
the sea and is about a mile in length. It is the fashion- 
able promenade of visitors during the season, and is close 
to the bathing-place. Those who are interested in oyster 
culture should visit the Huiteries, or oyster parks, where 
oysters are fattened and made ready for market. The 
Fish-market is a curious place, and the visitor, between 
seven and nine o'clock in the morning, may witness a 
" Dutch auction." The auctioneer fixes a high price on a 
pile of fish, and then calls it out. There is no response, 
and he gradually lowers his figures till somebody accepts, 
and brings the transaction to an end. 

The expeditious traveler may go from Ostend to Brus- 
sels in a single day (seventy-seven miles), and take in 
Bruges and Ghent without difficulty. Take an early train 
for Bruges (half an hour), and leave your baggage at 
the station. Hire a cab and a guide. The latter is not 
altogether necessary, but as the guides and commission- 
aires are numerous, cheap, and importunate, it is well to 
have one to keep the rest away. The principal attractions 
are the Cathedral, the Church of Notre Dame, the Belfry 
Tower, Chapelle du Saint Sang, Hospital of St. John, 
the Academy and the Palace of Justice. All these build- 
ings are curious and interesting. They abound in fine 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 143 

pictures and other works of art, including the statue of 
the Virgin and Child, attributed to Michael Angelo and pro- 
nounced among the finest works of that master of sculp- 
ture. The pictures of Memling in the ■ hospital of St. 
John are unrivalled in their way ; and it has been 
remarked that a view of these paintings would alone repay 
a long journey to Bruges. In the church of Notre Dame 
are the tombs of Charles the Bold, Duke of Burgundy, 
and his daughter Mary, wife of the emperor Maximilian. 

From the railway station the train carries us in one 
hour to Ghent, or Gand, as it is called in French. The 
city is much larger and more prosperous than Bruges. 
Of late years it has devoted much attention to manufac- 
tures, and it has been long famous for its productions of 
lace and cotton goods. It now claims a population of 
one hundred and thirty-five thousand. In the fifteenth 
century its weavers alone numbered forty thousand, and 
could put eighteen thousand fighting men into the field. 
When the weavers were going to and from their meals no 
one else ventured into the streets, and all the drawbridges 
were closed till the great crowd had ended its movements. 
The visitor at the present time is in no danger of being 
trampled to death by these workmen, and the streets have 
usually a gloomy appearance. Leave your baggage at 
the station and take cab and guide, as you did at Bruges. 
Visit the Cathedral, the Hotel de Ville, the Marche de 
Vendredi, Marche aux Herbes, Marche aux Grains, and 
the Beguinages. The cathedral is of no great conse- 
quence externally, but its interior is specially interesting 
and shows the architecture of several centuries. There 
are many fine paintings in the cathedral, including " The 
Adoration of the Immaculate Lamb," by John and Hubert 
Van Eyck, which has been pronounced the most extensive 
and imposing example of the Flemish school. Don't fail 



144 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

to climb the belfry close to the cathedral for the sake of 
the view from the summit. 

Each of the Marches, or market places, is surrounded 
by venerable buildings and is full of historic interest. 
The Beguinages are two nunneries, one with three hun- 
dred and the other with seven hundred members, the first 
being inside the city, and the second outside the walls. 
The inmates are unmarried women or widows, who pay a 
fee of one hundred and fifty francs on entering the estab- 
lishment, and contribute not less than one hundred franos 
a year for their board. Much of the fine lace of Ghent is 
made by them ; and if the stranger wishes to purchase 
specimens of this work he can do so at the office of the 
manager. These nunneries were founded in the thirteenth 
century ; and the Grand Beguinage, outside the city, is of 
itself a considerable village, as it consists of eighteen con- 
vents, numerous houses, and a church, all laid out into 
streets and squares. The objects of the Beguinages are a 
religious life, combined with care for the sick, and they 
admit women of all ranks to their privileges. When one 
of the members becomes dissatisfied and wishes to return 
to the world she can do so, and her entrance fee is 
restored to her. 

There is little to see between Ghent and Brussels. At 
the latter city there is enough to detain us two or three 
days ; and if we go to Waterloo another day will be 
required. Brussels has, with its suburbs, a population of 
four hundred thousand ; and there are said to be six or 
seven thousand English residents and at least three thou- 
sand Germans. The city is built partly on low land on 
the banks of the Senne and partly on elevated ground a 
little back from the stream. From several points of the 
upper town there are fine views of the lower. The upper 
town is the handsomest and- is mainly the residence of 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 145 

the better classes of the inhabitants, while the lower town 
is the great workshop and industrial centre. The Royal 
Palace and most of the government buildings are in the 
upper town, and in modern times fine streets and boule- 
vards have been laid out there. Brussels has been called 
a miniature Paris, from certain real or fancied resem- 
blances, which the traveler may seek for himself. French 
is the fashionable language, and many of the upper classes 
speak no other, while the laboring population are equally 
familiar with Flemish and unable to converse in French. 
The business community generally is fluent in both 
tongues. 

The park and boulevards are pretty and well kept, and 
form a delightful promenade, either in a carriage or on 
foot. The Royal Palace is an interesting pile, and con- 
tains some good paintings, and the Palace of the Acade- 
mies is close to it ; so that the whole may be embraced in 
a single visit. In the Place du Congres is the Congress 
Column, erected in memory of the congress in 1831, when 
Belgium received its constitution. The cathedral is on 
the slope overlooking the lower town. It dates from the 
thirteenth century, but the construction was carried 
through several hundred years, and the entire building 
was restored less than thirty years ago. The cathedral is 
especially rich in stained-glass windows, the earliest 
belonging to the period of the commencement of the 
church, while the latest are of the present day. From 
noon till four P. m. the works of art are exhibited, and it 
is well to time one's visit accordingly. The picture gal- 
lery of Brussels is the finest in Belgium, owing to recent 
additions. It was formerly the property of the city, but 
is now owned by the Belgian government. All the schools 
of art are represented by works of the highest class, and 
the student will be tempted to linger long within its walls. 
10 



146 POCKET GUIDE -FOR EUROPE. 

Perhaps the most interesting spot in Brussels is the Place 
de Hotel de Ville, in the lower town, as it is surrounded 
by old and handsome buildings that reflect great credit on 
their architects. The principal front is towards the mar- 
ket place, and is more than four hundred years old. It is 
a fine specimen of the Gothic style, and has latterly been 
restored. The interior can be visited on application to 
the custodian. It contains several fine paintings, chiefly 
by Flemish artists, and, in some of its features, resembles 
the Doge's Palace at Venice. From the top of the tower 
(three hundred and seventy feet high) there is a fine view 
of Brussels and the surrounding country. See the guild 
houses and the Halle au Pain, and also the Martyrs' 
Monument in the Place des Martyrs. While the ladies 
of the party are inspecting laces in some of the shops, the 
gentlemen may visit the Mannikin Statue at the corner of 
the Rue de Chene and Rue de Greve. Don't forget the 
Musee Wiertz in the Rue Vautier, containing the works of 
an eccentric artist, who refused to sell his pictures. After 
his death they were purchased by the government. 

You can go to Waterloo by rail, by coach, or by private 
carriage, the last being most independent and dearest 
(twenty to thirty francs). In going by rail, the best plan 
is to go to Waterloo station, and walk thence by Mont 
St. Jean, La Haye Sainte, La Belle Alliance, Plancenoit, 
Hougoumont, and the Lion Hill (about eight miles in all), 
to Braine l'Alleud station. The coach leaves Brussels 
daily at half-past eight A. M., and returns at four p. m., 
allowing two or three hours for seeing the battle-field. 
Guides are abundant and reasonably intelligent. Relics 
of the battle are for sale everywhere, and the supply is 
kept up by the factories of Birmingham. The boot of the 
Marquis of Anglesea, whose leg was amputated on the 
evening after the battle, is exhibited at a house in Water- 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 147 

loo village ; and the visitor can purchase a square inch 
or so of the leather for a shilling. Two or three boots 
are thus cut up every week during the visiting season. 
Many traces of the battle are seen in the ruined and shat- 
tered walls of Hougoumont, La Haye Sainte, and La 
Belle Alliance ; and, with a good guide and a map of the 
field, the positions of the contending armies can be clearly 
made out. The best general view of the field is from the 
summit of Lion Hill, an artificial mound two hundred 
feet high, surmounted by a bronze figure of a lion. 

It is a ride of an hour (twenty-seven miles) from Brus- 
sels to Antwerp, passing through Malines (Mechelin) 
famous for its laces and possessing a fine old cathedral of 
the fourteenth century. Antwerp is on the river Schelde, 
sixty miles from the sea, and is the chief seaport of Bel- 
gium. It has had strange vicissitudes in its history, as 
the figures of its population will show. In 1568 it num- 
bered one hundred and twenty-five thousand, which fell 
to fifty-five thousand in 1589, to 40,000 in 1790, increased 
to seventy-three thousand in 1830, and to nearly two hun- 
dred thousand in 1881. The city is strongly fortified, and 
it has been estimated that one hundred and seventy thou- 
sand men would be needed to make an effective siege. 
Its commerce is with all parts of the world, but chiefly 
with Great Britain and Germany. The docks are exten- 
sive and well worth a visit. The first of them were built 
by Napoleon I. when he determined to make Antwerp the 
principal seaport of Northern France. Important addi- 
tions have been made from time to time, and new docks 
are still in contemplation. The principal sight of Ant- 
werp is the cathedral, which has few superiors among the 
churches of Europe, and contains the famous master- 
piece of Peter Paul Rubens, "The Descent from the 
Cross." The picture is in the south transept of the 



148 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

church, while in the north transept is " The Elevation of 
the Cross," which some critics have pronounced little 
inferior to the first. " The Assumption," by the same 
artist, is the third in rank, and has been sharply criticised 
for the ponderous figure seated in the clouds. There are 
several other paintings in the church, but the visitor will 
give them slight attention and devote his time to the 
works of Rubens. 

Flemish art is finely represented in the museum of Ant- 
werp. The best pictures are by Rubens, Quinten Massys, 
Van Dyck, Jordaens, Laes, Van Rysdael, John Van Eyck, 
and Rembrandt. There are about seven hundred paint- 
ings in the collection, the most of them gathered from the 
suppressed monasteries and convents. The best picture 
is* a crucifixion, by Rubens, showing the two thieves on 
the right and left of Christ and the soldier giving the 
thrust of the lance. There are some excellent paintings 
in the church of St. Jacques and the Plantin Museum. 
If time permits, make a visit to the fish-market in the 
morning, and to the zoological garden in the afternoon. 

Other places of interest in Belgium include Ypres, 
which was famous in the fourteenth century as the centre 
of the cloth-making industry of Belgium. It had a popu- 
lation of two hundred thousand, and the chief occupation 
was the manufacture of textile fabrics. Diaper linen is 
named from this city (d'Ypres). At present it has only 
fifteen thousand inhabitants, but the most of its public 
buildings remain to attest its former greatness. The 
Cloth Hall is the largest and most interesting building of 
its kind in Belgium, and its construction occupied the 
whole of the thirteenth century. Close to the Cloth Hall 
is the cathedral of St. Martin, built in the thirteenth cen- 
tury, and containing some fine carvings in wood, together 
with old frescoes and stained glass. The meat market 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 149 

contains the Museum, where there are many Belgian anti- 
quities and some pictures and drawings by artists who 
lived in the days of the prosperity of Ypres. The city 
may be reached most conveniently from Ostend (thirty-five 
miles). 

Lille is about fifteen miles from Ypres, and on the road 
from Calais to Brussels. It is an important manufactur- 
ing centre, its products being cotton, woolen, and linen 
goods, machinery, oil, and chemicals. Its prosperity is 
shown by the doubling of its population in the last 
twenty years. The Hotel de Ville contains a fine picture 
gallery, in which all schools of art are represented. The 
streets and boulevards are beautifully laid out, and the 
old churches contain several objects of interest. Tour- 
ists who are familiar with manufactures will find much in 
Lille to attract their attention. 

Liege is another manufacturing point of great prosper- 
ity. It is sixty miles from Brussels in a southeasterly 
direction, and has a population of one hundred and 
twenty-five thousand, its chief industry being the manu- 
facture of weapons of all kinds. Most of the work is 
done by the artisans in their own houses in the same way 
that the silks of Lyons are woven. About one hundred 
and eighty firms are engaged in the business, and their 
establishments are called factories, though little is done 
in them beyond the examination and " assembling " of the 
pieces, in case a weapon consists of more than one piece. 
The city is on the banks of the Meuse in a pretty situa- 
tion, and the large number of chimneys rising from within 
its municipal limits evince the industry of the inhabitants. 
Liege is on a bed of coal, and some of the veins pass 
beneath the city and the river. The coal mines are exten- 
sively worked, and the stranger who is curious to see the 
manner of operating them, may be admitted at certain 



150 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

hours on introduction to one of the superintendents. In 
the city there are handsome streets and boulevards. In 
the Square d'Avroi is an equestrian statue of Charle- 
magne, who is said to have conferred privileges on Liege 
which led to its prosperity. There are some handsome 
buildings in Liege, and there is a bridge (Pont des 
Arches) crossing the river on five flat arches, and stand- 
ing on the site of a bridge erected in the sixth century. 

Thirty five miles from Liege in the direction of the 
Rhine is Aix-la-Chapelle (German, Aachen), a little be- 
yond the frontier, but properly included in a tour of 
Belgium, especially if the traveler is on his way from 
Brussels to Cologne. It is an important railway center 
and has a large interest in manufactures of various kinds. 
The German emperors were crowned here down to 1558, 
and their portraits, the chair of Charlemagne, and other 
interesting relics are carefully preserved. The Cathedral 
and Town Hall are the principal buildings' of interest, 
the former containing the tomb of Charlemagne, and the 
latter some interesting frescoes. Aix-la-Chapelle is famous 
for some springs which are accounted beneficial in diseases 
of the skin and other maladies. The temperature is about 
130 F., and the waters are strongly impregnated with 
sulphur. 

From Antwerp to Rotterdam (sixty-three miles) is a 
railway ride of two and one-half to three and one-half 
hours, or if we prefer a journey by steamboat we can 
make it every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday, in nine 
hours. The railway traverses a flat country to Roosen- 
daal, the Dutch custom-house and frontier station, about 
twenty-five miles from Antwerp, and the junction for the 
Flushing & Breda line. Further on it crosses the Hol- 
landsch Diep, an arm of the sea nearly two miles wide, 
by means of an iron bridge, which is a fine specimen of 



POCKET GUIDE FOB, EUROPE. 151 

engineering work. From this point there is a steamboat 
to Rotterdam twice a day, but the majority of passengers 
continue their journey by rail. The principal place on the 
route is Dordrecht, usually called Dort by the natives; — it 
is the oldest town in Holland, and in the middle ages was 
the most wealthy. It contains a cathedral of the four- 
teenth century, with some admirable carvings in wood, 
and there are a few good pictures in the Museum. 

The steamboat journey from Antwerp to Rotterdam 
carries us among the nine islands that form the Dutch 
province of Zeeland. The most of the land is below the 
level of the sea, from which it is protected by enormous 
dykes or embankments, the water that finds its way 
through the earth being pumped out by windmills and in 
many places by steam. For centuries the Dutch have 
maintained a steady battle with the ocean* and though the 
latter sometimes obtains the mastery his triumph is of 
short duration. Patient industry and eternal vigilance 
have no better illustrations than in the efforts of this 
people to reclaim wide areas of land from the sea and to 
hold them when once reclaimed. The bursting of a dyke 
sometimes causes immense destruction ; on one occasion 
three thousand persons lost their lives, and the tract that 
was covered was not reclaimed for many years afterwards. 
We pass the forts that guard the approach to Antwerp 
and have witnessed fierce engagements in days gone by; 
the first Dutch place on our route is Fort Bath, which is 
of less importance to-day than in former times. We 
thread a series of canals and creeks, pass through the 
Hollands ch Diep, and thence by a short creek into the 
Maas, which we follow to Rotterdam. The principal 
objects in the landscape along the route are windmills, as 
the low shores hardly present a single elevation on which 
the eye can rest. Long before reaching his destination 



152 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

the traveler gets his fill of windmills, and would willingly 
make over a liberal number to his nearest relatives. 

Rotterdam is the second commercial point in Holland, 
and has a population of one hundred and fifty thousand. 
It is fourteen miles from the sea and on the right bank of 
the Maas, and there are numerous canals running through 
the city, so that a great many houses have water commu- 
nication very near their doors. Numerous bridges over 
these canals give carriages and foot passengers free circu- 
lation, but at high tide so many of them are open that the 
pedestrian finds locomotion somewhat tedious. Ships 
discharge their cargoes at the doors of the warehouses, 
and the business of handling is reduced to a minimum. 
Rotterdam has a very large foreign trade, and there are 
many steam lines plying to English, French, Russian, 
Mediterranean, and East Indian ports. On the river front 
there is a magnificent quay, over a mile long, called the 
Boompjes ; small steamers start from here for all parts of 
Holland, and there are generally several large ships and 
steamers anchored before it. The Boompjes is an attrac- 
tive spot for the stranger, and he should not fail to take a 
leisurely walk along its entire length. 

At the upper end of the Boompjes there are two bridges, 
one for carriages and foot passengers and the other for 
the railway. The latter is continued through the city in 
the form of an iron viaduct a mile in length ; it rests partly 
on iron pillars and partly on piers of solid masonry, and 
is so high in the air that it gives interesting views into the 
upper windows of the houses. The principal attractions 
of Rotterdam are the Church of St. Lawrence, a Gothic 
edifice of the fifteenth century, with a lofty tower from 
which there is a fine view of the city, and the Boyman 
Museum, which contains an excellent collection of pictures, 
chiefly by Dutch masters. Visit the Exchange at one P. M. 



POCKET GUIDE FOK EUROPE. 153 

to see the assembled merchants of the city; the upper 
part of the Exchange contains a collection of scientific 
instruments and an industrial museum. 

Go from Rotterdam to Amsterdam by way of the Hague, 
Ley den, and Harlem. Three miles out is Schiedam, 
famous for its two hundred and twenty distilleries of gin 
flavored with the juniper berry, and seven miles further 
is Delft, once celebrated for the ware which bears its 
name. At present there is only one pottery in operation, 
and the town has the quietude of a cemetery. The 
Prinsenhof, or Palace, now used as a barrack, was the 
scene of the murder of William the Silent in 1584; — the 
mark of the bullet which killed him is pointed out in the 
wall of the staircase. See the Oude Kerk, or old church, 
containing the monument of Van Tromp and other heroes 
of Dutch naval history, and the Nieuwe Kerk, with the 
monument of William of Orange. 

Five miles from Delft is Gravenhage (better known as 
the Hague), the capital of the Netherlands, with a popu- 
lation of about one hundred thousand. It is the hand- 
somest city in Holland, as it contains many broad and fine 
streets and its buildings are of a superior order of archi- 
tecture. The Binnenhof is a straggling pile of buildings 
founded in the thirteenth century and enlarged by many 
subsequent additions ; it contains several interesting halls, 
and a portion of it is devoted to the Picture-gallery, one 
of the best in Holland. Among the famous paintings in 
the gallery are Rembrandt's " School of Anatomy," Paul 
Potter's " Bull," and Rembrandt's " Simeon in the Tem- 
ple." There are three other fine pictures by Rembrandt, 
and also celebrated works by Jan Steen, Gerard Dow, 
Terburg, Adrian Van Ostade, and Adrian Van der Velde. 
All the schools of art are represented, and the most of 
them by paintings of the highest class. The gallery is 



154 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

open from ten to four in summer and ten to three in 
winter, with the exception of Sundays, when it does not 
open till half past twelve. It is closed on New Year's 
day and on two or three of the principal festivals. The 
Municipal Museum contains some good pictures, and the 
Netherlands Museum is devoted to products of the indus- 
tries of the country and to a fine collection of antiquities. 
Do not fail to see the statues of William of Orange and 
Prince William I, and the magnificent monument in mem- 
ory of the independence of Holland in 1813. 

Three miles from the Hague is Scheveningen, which is 
to the Dutch capital what Manhattan Beach is to New 
York. It may be reached by steam-cars, tramway, cab, 
or canal boat, the first being less desirable than the 
others. The best route of all is by cab or tramway along 
the Old Road, which was constructed" in the seventeenth 
century, and is beautifully shaded with trees nearly its 
whole length. There are many handsome villas along 
this line, while the New Road has none, and is destitute 
of shade. The village of Scheveningen is quite pictu- 
resque. It has about twelve thousand inhabitants, chiefly 
employed in fishing. The beach in the morning presents 
an animated scene, as the fish are sold there by " Dutch 
auction," which has been already described. About 
twenty thousand visitors go to Scheveningen every year 
to bathe, and there are plenty of hotels to meet the wants 
of every purse. The sand dunes back of the beach are 
paved with bricks for a distance of about a mile, forming 
a pleasant promenade, while the beach is one of the most 
agreeable on the Atlantic coast of Europe. On the beach 
is an enormous bath-house and an abundance of restau- 
rants for the accommodation of those who remain only a 
few hours and do not wish to patronize the hotels. 

Leyden is ten miles from the Hague, and has a popu 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 155 

lation of about forty thousand. In the days of its pros- 
perity it counted over one hundred thousand ; but it suf- 
fered greatly from a siege by the Spaniards and by the 
breaking of the dykes that protected it. The Burg, the 
Stadthuis, and the church of St. Pancras are the principal 
buildings of interest. The stranger will enjoy a walk 
through its streets, as there are many private dwellings of 
the architecture of past centuries, some of them bearing 
curious decorations. There is a museum of antiquities, 
and also museums of Natural History and Ethnography. 
The Botanic Garden is worth a visit, especially for its col- 
lection of exotics from the East Indies, which are kept in 
large hot-houses and carefully tended. Several famous 
painters of the Dutch school were natives of Leyden, but 
the city contains very few of their pictures. 

Harlem is eighteen miles beyond Leyden, and is a clean 
and pretty city of forty thousand inhabitants. It has the 
usual array of public buildings ; and the stranger is 
advised to climb the tower of . the cathedral for the fine 
view from the top. There is a museum containing a few 
excellent pictures. Franz Hals is the principal artist 
represented, and the collection of his works is said to be 
the finest in existence. There are many flower gardens 
in and around Harlem, and a considerable business is 
done in the exportation of the products of horticulture. 
If you have time (three hours), make an excursion to 
Bloemendaal, a pretty village three miles from the city. 
It is beautifully laid out and has many handsome country 
residences, surrounded by groves of trees. 

From Harlem to Amsterdam is a ride of ten miles in 
an almost direct line. On the right, a portion of the way, 
is the Harlemmer Polder, which was reclaimed (1840 to 
^SS) by draining an arm of the sea, eighteen miles long 
by nine in width. The general depth of the water was 
/ 



156 POCKET GUIDE FOE EUKOPE. 

fourteen feet, and the work of diking and draining required 
an expenditure of about six million dollars. About sev- 
enty-two square miles of land were thus taken from the 
sea, and its present value is far beyond the cost of reclaim- 
ing it. The soil is of remarkable fertility, and ten thou- 
sand people now live in the area which was only made 
habitable in 1853. 

Amsterdam is the largest city of Holland (population 
three hundred and seventeen thousand), and the principal 
seat of its commerce. It was founded in the thirteenth 
century, and received its name from the dam which was 
built across the Amstel where it enters the " Y," as the 
arm of the Zuider Zee is called. Most of the Dutch com- 
merce with the East Indies centres at Amsterdam, and 
the city has steamship connection with all the principal 
ports of Europe. There is a large manufacturing interest, 
and altogether it is one of the most prosperous cities on 
the continent. There are canals running through all 
parts of Amsterdam, so that the city is divided into ninety 
islands, which are connected by more than three hundred 
bridges. All the buildings rest on piles, and the work of 
construction is enormously increased by the labor and 
expense of making a foundation. Sometimes the weight 
of an edifice causes it to sink in the mud, and occasion- 
ally the piles are eaten away by the teredo^ or wood worm. 
Many thousands of dollars are expended every year to 
prevent the disappearance of Amsterdam beneath the 
waves of the Y. The business centre of the city is around 
a large square called the Dam, and close to the original 
embankment which gave name and existence to the place. 

The stranger should first visit the Palace, which fronts 
on the Dam and is the finest building in the city. From 
the top of the tower a general view may be had of the 
city and its surroundings, as„far as Harlem in one direc- 



POCKET GUIDE FOB, EUROPE. 157 

tion and to Utrecht in another. The network of canals 
through and beyond the city, the villages and towns cov- 
ering the plain, and the forest of masts and rows of build- 
ings at the spectator's feet form a curious sight. The 
building was originally intended for a town hall, and its 
numerous rooms are richly decorated with sculptures and 
paintings. Near it is the Nieuwe Kerk, a handsome 
Gothic church erected in the fifteenth century and restored 
in the seventeenth. Monuments to Dutch naval heroes 
are among the adornments of the interior. Opposite the 
palace is the Exchange, which has a general resemblance 
to the Bourse of Hamburg or Frankfort, and should be 
visited between i and 2 p. M. On a corner of the 
square is the Zeemanshoop (Seaman's Hope) a society 
which includes nearly all the sea captains and many of 
the merchants engaged in foreign trade. 

The Stadthuis, or town hall, contains many fine paint- 
ings by Dutch artists ; but the best gallery in all Holland 
is in the museum in the Trippenuis. Here are "The 
Night Watch," by Rembrandt, and " The Shooting Gal- 
lery," by Van der Heist, two of the best works of those 
celebrated masters, both of whom are represented by sev- 
eral other paintings of great merit. The gallery contains 
nearly six hundred paintings, mostly belonging to the 
Dutch school, together with a fine collection of engravings 
and etchings by Rembrandt and others. There -are four 
or five private collections and small museums accessible 
to the public ; but the visitor who is pressed for time will 
be content with what he has seen in the Trippenhuis. 
The Zoological Garden is claimed to be the finest in 
Europe, and certainly it has no superiors. The harbor 
should receive attention, as it presents a busy scene, espe- 
cially since the completion of the canal which connects 
Amsterdam directly with the North Sea, and permits the 



158 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

passage of ships drawing twenty-two feet of water. A 
glance at a map Will show the great advantages of this 
canal over the old route which ships were obliged to fol- 
low before its completion. 

Six miles from Amsterdam, and accessible by steamer 
six or eight times daily, is the town of Zaandam, famous 
for having been the residence of Peter the Great when he 
was studying navigation and ship-building in a Dutch 
dockyard. The hut where he lived is protected by a roof 
supported on columns of brick. It is a simple affair of 
only two rooms, and would have disappeared long ago 
but for the care taken to preserve it. According to tradi- 
tion, Peter occupied the hut for several months ; but the 
best authorities say he only remained at Zaandam for a 
few days, as he was unable to preserve his incognito, and 
was so beset by crowds of idlers that he returned to 
Amsterdam, where the chances of concealment and study 
were better. 

A couple of days may be devoted to a tour of North 
Holland, and, if the traveler moves with celerity, he may 
accomplish the trip in a day. Go by the Purmerende 
steamer to T'Schow, and take passenger barge to Broek 
(pronounced Brook), two miles from the main canal. 
Broek has the reputation of being the cleanest town in 
the world, and justly deserves it, but at the expenditure 
of a vast amount of muscle devoted to scrubbing. The 
houses are mostly entered through the cow-stables, which 
frequently serve as parlors or reception-rooms. The cow 
is to the inhabitant of Broek what the pig is to the Irish 
peasant, and she receives the homage of the rest of the 
family. Returning to the canal, go by steamboat to Alk- 
maar, and then by rail to Helder, returning by the same 
conveyance to Amsterdam (fifty miles). The excursion 
to Alkmaar and Helder carries the traveler through a 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 159 

region of remarkable fertility. He will see some fine 
specimens of horned cattle, and may witness the process 
of cheese-making. Near Helder he may visit the island 
of de Burg, which is used as a pasture for thirty-four 
thousand sheep, that sometimes yield a hundred tons of 
wool in a single season. The great Helder dyke, a stone 
embankment five miles long and twelve feet wide at the 
top, will repay a visit. It slopes into the sea for two hun- 
dred feet, at an angle of forty degrees, and its base is 
always covered at the lowest tide. 

Utrecht is twenty-two miles from Amsterdam, and con- 
tains a fine cathedral, a small picture gallery, and the 
mint where ail the money of Holland and its colonies is 
coined. The surrounding country is very pretty, as it 
contains the residences of many wealthy Hollanders, who 
have spent their money freely in making handsome parks 
and gardens. Several charming excursions may be made 
in the neighborhood. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

DENMARK, NORWAY, AND SWEDEN, — THE 
LAND OF THE MIDNIGHT SUN. 

Comparatively few tourists go farther north than Ger- 
many ; for the benefit of the few who may wish to visit 
Denmark and Scandinavia we will make a brief sketch of 
a trip in that direction. 

Hamburg is the best point of departure. The railway 
Will carry us through Schleswig-Holstein, the provinces 
which were recently taken from Denmark and annexed to 
Germany, where the country is generally flat and there is 
comparatively little to interest the stranger. There are 
two ferries between Hamburg and Copenhagen, one over 
the Little Belt and the other over the Great Belt. The 
through time between the cities is about sixteen hours. 
Baggage registered through to Copenhagen is not exam-_ 
ined till it reaches its destination, but the traveler will 
do well to look after it at Vandrupp, the Danish frontier 
station. 

Another route is by rail from Hamburg to Kiel and 
thence by steamer in six or seven hours to Korsor, pass- 
ing among several small islands and rarely far from land. 
From Korsor to Copenhagen is a railway ride of nearly 
four hours. Another route, specially recommended to 
those who prefer water travel to a long ride by rail, is 
from Hamburg to Lubeck by train (two hours), and thence 
by steamer in sixteen hours to the Danish capital. The 
steamer starts in the afternoon from Lubeck, so that the 

(160)" 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 161 

traveler spends the night on the water and has the day 
before him at Copenhagen. Three or four hours may be 
spent to advantage in Lubeck before leaving, as the city 
contains several quaint and curious buildings, most of 
them around its market-place, so that a long walk is not 
required. The approach to Copenhagen by the Lubeck 
route is exceedingly pretty, and the tourist should be on 
deck soon after daylight. 

Copenhagen has . a population of two hundred and 
twenty thousand, and is situated on both sides of a 
narrow strait separating Zeeland from a small island that 
is supposed to have been connected with it ages ago. It 
has a fine harbor, and was founded in the twelfth century 
on the site of a small fishing village ; its growth was so 
rapid that in less than one hundred years it was the capital 
of Denmark and its most important city. The Kongens 
Nytorv (King's New Market), in the center of the city, is 
a handsome square or open space, from which thirteen 
streets radiate, and the traveler who makes only a short 
stay will do well to lodge in its vicinity. Take a drive 
through the principal streets, and then visit the Thor- 
waldsen Museum, which is the great attraction of Copen- 
hagen. The Museum contains many originals in marble, 
together with plaster casts, drawings, models, etc., by the 
great sculptor ; it is a quadrangular edifice, two stories 
high, with the tomb of Thorwaldsen in the center. 

The Picture-gallery is in the Christiansborg Palace. It 
contains specimens from all the schools of art, but the 
preponderance is given to the Dutch painters, whose 
works are more numerous than any other and of better 
quality. Rembrandt is especially prominent, not only 
with his own paintings but those of his pupils. The great 
halls of the Palace are worth visiting, and if time permits 
take a walk through the Royal Stables. The other sights 
ii 



163 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

of Copenhagen are the Fruekirke, or Church of Our Lady, 
the Museum of Northern Antiquities, Museum of Ethnog- 
raphy, the Exchange, and the Church of the Redeemer. 
Visit the Tivoli in the evening for a study of the out-door 
amusements of the people, and if you have time for 
excursions around the city you will find the environs very 
pretty and attractive. Devote a day to an excursion to 
Helsingor (better known as Elsinore), going by rail and 
returning by steamboat, or vice versa. Either way the 
ride is delightful, and the wooded shores of the Sound 
make a marked contrast to the deep blue of the water. 
At Elsinore the English-speaking tourist will be shown 
through the Castle; the points which Shakspeare made 
famous in Hamlet will be exhibited. The platform on 
wliich the ghost walked is not omitted, and the positions 
of Hamlet and riis friends when the shade of the king 
appeared to them are included in the programme. Ophe- 
lia's grave and the brook where she committed suicide are 
among the sights of the place ; the grave was constructed 
by an enterprising hotel-keeper a few years ago, and the 
brook was selected by an American actor, who said Ophelia 
might have been drowned there if she watched her chance 
after a heavy shower. There is a fine view of the Swedish 
coast from the platform of the Castle, and the large num- 
ber of vessels navigating the Sound make an animated 
picture. 

Copenhagen is the most convenient point of departure 
for Norway and Sweden. Cross the strait to Malmo 
(sixteen miles) in an hour and a half, or to Landskrona, 
about same time and distance, and then go north and east 
by rail. Or, when starting for Elsinore, we may leave 
Copenhagen for good and cross from the scene of Ham- 
let's troubles to Helsingborg, on the Swedish coast, and 
about three miles away. -Our space forbids a detailed 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 163 

description of Sweden ; suffice it to say that we may 
proceed by rail to Stockholm, passing several important 
towns, where we may halt or not as we choose. The 
through time is about seventeen hours by express (once 
daily each way), and from twenty to twenty-five hours by 
the way trains. 

A pleasanter route is by steamer (twelve hours) to 
Goteborg or Gothenborg, and thence by steamer (three 
days) through the Gotha Canal, a waterway formed by 
a series of canals connecting several lakes and rivers. 
The steamer is carried around several falls and from lake 
to lake by means of locks, and at one point it is three 
hundred and sixty feet above the level of the sea. The 
time required for passing the locks can be utilized in 
strolls in the neighborhood, and there is nearly always a 
sufficient number of interesting sights to make the hours 
pass pleasantly. The first halt is at the Falls of Trol- 
hatta, where there is a succession of six cascades with an 
aggregate height of one hundred and eighty feet. The 
passage of the locks requires two hours, so that there is 
abundant time for studying the falls and obtaining a 
lasting impression of their beauty. The most important 
lakes on the Gotha Canal route are Venern and Vettern 
(Wenner and Wetter), and sometimes the wind stirs them 
into a condition of roughness. There is picturesque 
scenery at almost every turn of the steamer, and the 
popularity of the route for travelers in Sweden is increas- 
ing yearly. 

Stockholm is sometimes called the Venice of the North 
on account of the islands on which it stands and the 
canals and rivers that pass through it. To the eye of the 
stranger it presents a pleasing appearance, and the major- 
ity of visitors are charmed with the city and its situation. 
One's interest will be divided between the picture-galleries, 



164 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

palaces, churches, and other stock sights of a capital on 
the one hand, and the beauty of the surroundings on the 
other. He can hardly go amiss in seeking an agreeable 
excursion in the environs, and his movements are facili- 
tated by numerous ferry-boats, steam launches, and larger 
craft plying in all directions. (For a detailed description 
of Stockholm and its environs consult Baedeker's Guide 
to Norway and Sweden.) 

From Stockholm by rail to Christiania, the capital of 
Norway (345 miles), is a ride of nearly twenty-four hours. 
Halts may be made at Hallsberg, Karlstad, Kil, and 
Charlottenberg, for pleasant excursions among the lakes 
and mountains ; the last-named place is just before the 
Norwegian frontier is reached, and the customs officers 
generally make a slight examination of the trunks of the 
traveler who is entering Sweden. Those going to Chris- 
tiania are not disturbed till they reach the capital. There 
are no towns of consequence between Charlottenberg and 
Christiania. 

Christiania may be reached by steamer direct from Lon- 
don and other English ports, and also from Hamburg and 
Bremen. The city is prettily situated, and nearly all of 
modern construction; there are few public buildings to 
delay the traveler, and he may easily see the place in a 
day and be ready to leave. From Christiania northward 
there is a railway to Throndhjem ; the trains are rather 
slow in their movements, but more expeditious than the 
steamer along the coast. The latter passes by Stavangar, 
Bergen, and other active towns, and the halts are suffi- 
ciently long to allow ample time for seeing all the inter- 
esting features of the route. The steamers are nearly 
always among the islands of the coast, so that the trav- 
eler of tender stomach has little danger of sea-sickness. 
From every stopping-place .one can make excursions over 



POCKET QUIDE FOR EUROPE. 165 

the carriage roads or among the famous fiords of this 
northern land ; he may essay the poetry of the carriole 
to his heart's content; loiter in fishing or other boats; 
and if he inclines to hunting or fishing there are plenty 
of facilities for the sport. The tourist in Norway must 
be prepared to " rough it," as. the accommodations by the 
roadside are of limited character, and the bill of fare 
abounds in monotony. The sights in the towns along the 
coast are pretty much the same, and those who care little 
for natural scenery and outdoor exercise, but delight in 
churches, palaces, castles, and first-class hotels, would do 
well to think twice before venturing farther than Chris- 
tiania. Bergen, Stavangar, and Throndhjem have a few 
churches and other buildings worthy of inspection, but 
there are not enough of them to repay the fatigue of the 
journey. 

The majority of travelers to Throndhjem have their 
thoughts fixed upon a voyage to the North Cape and inside 
the Arctic Circle, with a view of the sun at midnight. 
Throndhjem is usually the starting point for this voyage, 
but it may also be made in steamers from Christiania, 
Bergen, or Hamburg. The time for the voyage is between 
the middle of June and the middle of August, the bulk 
of the travel being in July. Early and late in the season 
the boats are not crowded, but in July they are filled to 
their utmost capacity, and the tourist must put up with a 
very small space tor a period varying from two to three 
or four weeks, according to the movements of the steamer. 
It is not enough to order and pay for a place in advance ; 
you must go aboard the steamer as soon as she arrives in 
port, or hire somebody to do so, and when once you have 
secured your berth be deaf to all arguments designed to 
turn you out. Do not be surprised if somebody ejects 
your baggage and deposits his or hers in its place while 



166 POCKET GUIDE FOP* EUROPE. 

you are temporarily absent; proceed to put things in 
staht quo with the least possible delay, and appeal to the 
captain in case of opposition. 

The voyage from Throndjem to Hammerfest takes five 
or six days, the steamer touching at Bodo and Tromsoe on 
the way, in addition to several less important halting-places. 
At Tromsoe there is generally sufficient delay to enable 
the passengers to visit a settlement of Laplanders with 
their herds of reindeer in the Tromsdaal, about two hours 
from the landing-place. The captain should be notified 
before leaving Bodo, so that he can telegraph for boats 
and guides to be ready on the arrival of the steamer at 
Tromsoe. Hammerfest is the most northerly town in the 
world, and so far in the Arctic Circle that the sun can be 
se'en at midnight from the 14th of May to the 29th of 
August. It has a population exceeding two thousand, and 
its chief trade is in fish and its products. If time permits, 
ascend the Tyven, a hill twelve hundred feet high, for the 
view of the Arctic Ocean. It is customary to ascend it, 
so as to see the sun at midnight, especially if the time of 
the visit is very early or very late in the season. Beyond 
Hammerfest the steamers generally proceed to Vadsoe, 
around the North Cape. The voyage occupies two and 
one-half days each way, and most of the vessels remain at 
least a day in Vadsoe, so that the traveler has all the time 
he desires for sight-seeing, where there is very little to be 
seen. If he does not return by the boat that brought 
him he must remain an entire week for the next steamer 
of the same company. Vadsoe has a population of fifteen 
hundred, half of whom are Finns, and the rest Norwe- 
gians and Lapps. The majority of travelers return from 
Hammerfest after visiting the North Cape by a local 
steamboat or by a row-boat from Gjesver, the third land- 
ing-place from Hammerfest- and nine miles from the cape. 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 167 

In round figures, the voyage from Throndhjem to the 
North Cape and back consumes two weeks ; but the trav- 
eler should allow not less than twenty days for the excur- 
sion. The expense will not be heavy, as the cost of trans- 
portation and lodging (such as it is) is about three dollars 
a day, and that of meals and steward's fees two dollars 
more. The meals are sufficiently good to ward off starva- 
tion, but far from the standard of the Inman and White 
Star steamships between New York and Liverpool. On 
many of the steamers there are no state-rooms, the. pas- 
sengers sleeping on the sofas in the saloon, and troubling 
themselves very little about seclusion. There is always a 
separate cabin for ladies, and as there is very little darkness 
between Throndhjem and Bodo in July, and none what- 
ever beyond, nobody cares to make a change of clothing, 
as it is difficult to realize that there is any night. It is the 
lotos-land, " where it seemed always afternoon," and very 
early afternoon at that, 



CHAPTER XIV. 

RUSSIA, ALGERIA, EGYPT, AND THE HOLY 

LAND. 

A visit to Russia may be made from Berlin, Vienna, or 
Constantinople, and also by a voyage up the Baltic. The 
tourist who finds himself in Stockholm may go by steamer 
from that city to St. Petersburg in about forty hours, 
touching at Abo and Helsingfors, where he remains quite 
long enough for a cursory view of those places. The 
voyage up the Baltic may be made from London, Hull, 
and other English ports, and also from Hamburg and 
Stettin; the time from London or Hull is from five to 
seven days, and the journey in this way is cheaper by far 
than the long ride by rail. From Berlin to St. Petersburg 
is a railway ride of forty hours, passing through Elbing 
and Konigsberg in Germany, leaving the frontier at Eydt- 
kuhnen, and entering Russia at Virballof, where passports 
and baggage are examined. At whatever point you intend 
entering Russia, be sure that your passport is in order or 
you may be subjected to a vexatious delay. It is best to 
have the proper visas attached in the last capital city on 
your route, and this can be done expeditiously through the 
legation of your country. In case you reach Eydtkuhnen 
without a passport, you must return to Berlin without 
entering Russia ; if you have a passport, but without a 
Russian visa, you must wait a day at the frontier while 
the document is sent to the Russian consul at Konigsberg 
for his endorsement. The .station-master will attend to 

(168) 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 169 

the matter, and of course he expects to be paid for the 
trouble he takes. Five dollars will cover the fees of both 
consul and station-master. 

Carry as little baggage as possible, as the customs 
regulations are severe ; leave all books behind you, with 
the exception of railway and other guides ; the censors 
are watchful about literature, and will confiscate anything 
concerning which there is the least doubt. They have a 
keen eye for revolutionary documents, and have been 
known to seize a work on astronomy because it contained 
a chapter on " the revolutions of the earth." With your 
passport and baggage all right you will find the Russian 
officials the most polite in the world, but if those things 
are not in order the frontier of the dominions of the Czar 
is a vexatious place. Comfortable sleeping cars are on 
all the Russian railways, and as the journeys are long it is 
well to secure your place in advance by means of the 
telegraph. On the express trains from Berlin there are 
generally sleeping cars running through to St. Petersburg, 
which are carefully examined at the frontier to prevent 
smuggling. 

Between Virballof and St. Petersburg (five hundred and 
sixty miles) you pass through Kovno and Vilna, the latter 
being the junction of the line from Warsaw. Further 
on is Pskof, the chief town of a province of the same 
name, and two miles from the railway station. It con- 
tains an interesting kremlin (fortress) and several churches 
that will repay visiting if the traveler is not pressed for 
time. Near the capital we come to Gatchina, celebrated 
for its trout, and containing an imperial residence, but we 
have so many palaces before us in our journey through 
Russia that we will not stop here. At the station in 
St. Petersburg there will be a crowd of isvostchiks or 
drivers ; and there are generally English or French-speak- 



170 POCKET GUlf)E FOR EUROPE. 

ing guides waiting for chance customers. It is best to 
engage one of the latter, unless the tourist has telegraphed 
to a hotel to send a carriage and commissionaire to the 
station to meet him. The droshky drivers are obliging 
but noisy, and their volubility is somewhat confusing to a 
stranger ignorant of their language. 

If the traveler arrives by steamer he will be landed at 
the quay directly from the vessel, or sent by rail or river 
steamer from Cronstadt. If he comes from Vienna instead 
of /Berlin, he will pass through Cracow and Warsaw 
(already mentioned) and reach the main line at Vilna. 
Or he may prefer to come from Vienna, through Warsaw 
and Smolensk, to Moscow, and see the modern capital 
after he has visited the ancient one. If he comes from 
Constantinople or from the Danube, he will land at Odessa 
or Sevastopol, whence there is railway communication with 
Moscow and St. Petersburg, by way of Kiev or Kharkoff. 

We will leave the details of Russian sight-seeing for 
the larger guide-books, and confine our observations to 
the routes of travel. A short trip may be made by 
entering the Empire from Berlin, as indicated, going 
from St. Petersburg to Moscow, and departing through 
Smolensk and Warsaw to Vienna. St. Petersburg can be 
seen in a week, together with the most of the interesting 
places in the neighborhood ; then two days should be 
taken for a visit to Novgorod the Great (do not confound 
it with Nijni Novgorod) which lies about fifty miles from 
the line of railway to Moscow. Returning to the railway, 
proceed to Moscow, or, if you leave out Novgorod, you 
may go from St. Petersburg to Moscow direct in nineteen 
hours. A week will be enough for Moscow, and if it is 
the time of the fair at Nijni Novgorod (July and August), 
do not omit it. A quarter of a million people from all 
parts of Russia and from northern and central Asia are 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 171 

assembled there for purposes of trade ; the stranger sees 
a perfect kaleidoscope of costumes, while the confusion of 
tongues is said to equal that of the Tower of Babel. The 
express train leaves Moscow in the evening and reaches 
Nijni the next morning (two hundred and fifty miles). If 
the stranger only spends a day at the fair he may be in 
Moscow on the second morning after he left it. 

From Nijni Novgorod you can descend the Volga by 
steamboat to Kazan, a city half Russian and half Tartar 
in character, and from Kazan to Samara, Saratov, and 
Astrachan, the latter being near the entrance of the Volga 
into the Caspian Sea. From Astrachan go by steamer 
along the Caspian Sea to Baku, and then by rail through 
Tiflis to Poti on the Black Sea, whence there is regular 
communication by well-appointed steam lines to Odessa, 
Galatz, or Constantinople. Or, you may leave the Volga 
steamboat at Tsaritsin, and a railway will carry you in an 
hour or two to Kalatch on the Don, which you may 
descend to the Sea of Azof, reaching the latter body of 
water at Rostof. Steamers run from Rostof to the Crimea 
and Odessa, whence you may proceed to Constantinople 
or the Danube by steamer, or by rail to Moscow. If you 
do not care to see the latter place again you may go from 
Kiev to Warsaw by Jitomar and Lemberg, or by Lemberg 
and Cracow to Vienna. Three weeks will be sufficient 
for the journey from Nijni to Odessa by the Volga and 
Caspian, or two weeks by Tsaritsin and the Sea of Azof. 
The ride from Odessa to Moscow requires about forty 
hours, and there is usually a change of carriages at Kiev 
or Kharkoff. The remarks about sleeping-cars in the 
opening paragraph of this chapter will apply to these 
lines. 

Traveling in Russia is dearer than in most other parts 
of Europe, and the tourist should add not less than 



172 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

twenty-five per cent, to his estimates in comparison with 
those for Germany, France, or Switzerland ; he would 
even do well to add fifty per cent., as the railway jour- 
neys are very long and the fares high, while the cost of 
hotel accommodations is visibly greater than elsewhere. 
Remember that it is almost as difficult to get out of Russia 
as to get into it ; your passport must be indorsed by the 
officials "fiotir sortir" and a couple of days are frequently 
consumed in the operation. Have the business attended 
to by your consul rather than by the hotel-keeper or a 
commissionaire, as the hotel-keeper is human and very 
likely will manage it so that you will be detained two or 
three days longer in his establishment than is necessary. 
You cannot leave Russia until you have satisfied all 
pecuniary claims ; if you have any outstanding bills your 
creditors file them with the police and the passport is held 
until the irregularities are adjusted. The hotel-keeper 
generally takes charge of your passport when you arrive 
at his house, and holds it till you leave ; he thus has a 
certainty that you will not depart without the formality of 
paying your bill, for the simple reason that you cannot get 
away. 

The winter tourist will quite likely wish to visit Egypt, 
Algeria, or the eastern shores of the Mediterranean, gen- 
erally called the Levant. We will sketch a few routes for 
his benefit. 

From Marseilles there are four or five steamers weekly 
(thirty to thirty-five hours) to Algiers, and one every week 
for Bone and Tunis. There is a fortnightly steamer from 
Gibraltar to Oran, whence there is a railway (fourteen 
hours) to Algiers. Algiers is a favorite wintering city, and 
generally filled with English-speaking people from Novem- 
ber to April. There are steamers three times a week to 
Philippeville, whence there is a railway (sixty miles) to 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 173 

Constantine ; there is a diligence daily from Algiers to 
Setif, whence there is a railway to Constantine, but the 
journey is not to be attempted by an invalid. A jour- 
ney to the Desert of Sahara may be made from Con- 
stantine, partly by rail and partly by diligence, as far as 
the Oasis of Biskra, and the week it requires will be well 
employed. From Constantine go by rail to Bone, and 
from Bone by steamer or rail to Tunis, the latter prefer- 
able if the country is quiet and the line in operation. 
From Tunis there is regular weekly communication by 
steamer with Marseilles, Naples, and Malta ; — the traveler 
who intends visiting Egypt should go to Malta, whence 
he can easily find passage (seven hundred miles) to 
Alexandria. Tripoli may be reached by an occasional 
steamer, but it is hardly worth visiting. 

Egypt may be reached as follows : 

By weekly steamer (French) in six days from Marseilles 
to Alexandria, touching at Naples. 

By weekly steamer (Austrian) in four days from Trieste, 
touching at Brindisi and Corfu. 

By weekly steamer (English) in three days from Brin- 
disi, direct. 

By weekly steamer (Italian) in five days from Naples, 
touching at Messina and Catania, and occasionally break- 
ing down. 

By fortnightly steamer (French ) from Marseilles, touch- 
ing at Naples, Syra, Smyrna, and several Levantine ports. 
This is known as the "indirect," and takes about fif- 
teen days for the voyage. The fare is double that of the 
"direct " steamer, and passengers holding through tickets 
(good four months) are permitted to stop wherever they 
choose, and take a succeeding steamer of the line without 
extra charge. 

By weekly steamer from Southampton (English) in 



174 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

twelve days, touching at Gibraltar and Malta, and landing 
passengers at Port Said, if it is not convenient to enter the 
harbor of Alexandria. 

By weekly steamer from Liverpool (English) in four- 
teen days to Alexandria, touching at Gibraltar and Malta. 

There are many irregular steamers from English and 
Mediterranean ports to Alexandria and Port Said, so that 
the traveler will have no difficulty in getting to Egypt. 
The fare is not far from seventy-five dollars from Mar- 
seilles, Naples, Brindisi, or Trieste, and one hundred dol- 
lars from Liverpool or London. It varies according to 
the season, and the figures are higher on some lines than 
on others. The ships are large and well fitted, and the 
table is usually satisfactory to a traveler of ordinary 
desires. English or French steamers preferable. 

From Alexandria to Cairo is a railway ride of four or 
five hours (one hundred and twenty miles). A day will 
suffice for a hurried view of Alexandria, but a week will 
not satisfy one's curiosity at Cairo. The Egyptian sea- 
son is from November to March inclusive. Before 
November it is too warm for comfort, and about the 
beginning of April the hot winds from the desert set in 
and render departure desirable. January and February 
are the most delightful months at Cairo. For the voyage 
up the Nile there are two modes of travel, one by steamer, 
and the other by sailing-boat, or dahabeah. The steamers 
leave weekly from the beginning of December to the end 
of February, and make the round trip to the first cataract 
and back in twenty days. They have a fixed schedule for 
stoppages and sight-seeing, and all the passengers must 
conform to it. The conductor rings a bell or blows a 
whistle when the time is up at any given point, and then 
there is nothing to do but to move on. The cost of the 
round trip is (or was) forty-six pounds sterling, and is 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 175 

supposed to include all fees for donkeys, guides, etc., in 
addition to passage and food. Wine and other beverages 
are extra, and there are many "squeezes," more or less 
legitimate, connected with the voyage, so that the expense 
is swelled to more than fifty pounds before the return to 
Cairo. The steamers are managed by a tourist company, 
which sells tickets to anybody without regard to age, sex, 
health, religion, or nationality, so that a steamer party on 
a Nile voyage is a social, and sometimes unsocial, hash 
involving many mysteries. 

Recently steamers have been placed on the Nile 
between the first and second cataracts, to run in connec- 
tion with those on the lower part of the river. The round 
trip to the second cataract takes two weeks longer than to 
the first cataract, and the fare is correspondingly in- 
creased. 

The voyage by sailing-boat, or dahabeah, is much the 
more independent mode of travel, as you choose your 
own party and take your own time. You can hire the 
boat by time or by the course, and whichever plan you 
adopt you will wish you had taken the other. If you go 
by time, it is the interest of the captain to keep you on 
the river as long as possible, and he will invent all sorts 
of excuses for doing so ; if you go by the course, he will 
hurry you along as fast as he can, and you frequently find 
that he has sailed past a place during the night where you 
specially wished to stop. The best system of hiring is a 
combination of the two. You charter the boat by the 
course, and stipulate for a certain number of days of stop- 
pages at points which you are to name. From fourteen 
to twenty days delay are the ordinary stipulation ; and the 
voyage to the first cataract and back may be made in fifty 
to seventy-five days, and to the second cataract and back 
in seventy to one hundred days, including the stoppages. 



176 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

The cost of a good boat and dragoman will be, to the first 
cataract and back, about fifteen hundred dollars for two 
persons, — f or four persons, two thousand dollars. Five or 
six hundred dollars must be added in each case for the sec- 
ond cataract. For a large party the cost will be proportion- 
ally less. The figures named are for a first-class boat and 
dragoman, and everything "swell." A modest boat, sec- 
ond-class dragoman, and economic outfit may be had for 
less money. The lowest figures known to the writer, in 
two visits to Egypt, were two hundred and sixty-five dol- 
lars each for a party of five to the first cataract and back, 
with fourteen days allowance for stoppages. 

Always have the contract carefully drawn at your con- 
sulate (fee $5.00), and do not trust to your own intel- 
ligence, no matter how " smart ' ; you consider yourself. 
Do not start for the second cataract later than the first of 
December, nor after the beginning of January for the first 
cataract. The Nile rises in summer and begins to fall in 
November. By the middle of January it is well within 
its banks, and there is not sufficient water for the voyage 
to the second cataract. The dragoman will perhaps tell 
you otherwise; but remember that he has a living to 
make, and the Oriental is not squeamish about a false- 
hood by which he can gain a shilling. Plenty of respect- 
able men can be found in Egypt who will lie all day for a 
dollar, and tell not less than twenty lies to the hour. 

There is a railway part way up the Nile (two hundred 
miles) ; but its chief use to the traveler will be to enable 
him to join a boat after her departure, or leave it on his 
way down in order to hasten to Cairo. There is a tele- 
graph line all the way, and the mail arrangements are 
excellent. Travelers may leave their addresses at the 
Cairo post-office with the name of their boat, and their 
letters will be forwarded by the weekly steamers. 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE, 177 

Having done with Egypt, we will go to the Holy Land. 
We can make the journey overland by Mount Sinai and 
through the desert, or we can go by sea. The overland 
route requires forty days of travel with camels and sad- 
dle-horses, and costs heavily (about four hundred dollars 
each for a party of half a dozen). Make your contract 
with a good dragoman, as for the Nile journey, and go by 
rail (ten hours) to Suez, which will be the starting-point. 
If all goes well, you will reach Jerusalem about six weeks 
later. 

The sea voyage is from Alexandria (in twenty-four 
hours) or Port Said (in twelve hours) to Jaffa, the port of 
Jerusalem. It is better to go from Port Said if you have 
seen Alexandria, as you will have less sea travel, and will 
moreover take a voyage of a few hours on the Suez canal. 
From Jaffa to Jerusalem (thirty-six miles) there is a bad 
wagon road, and a railway is promised. The favorite 
mode of travel is by saddle-horse, and the tourist will 
have no trouble in arranging with a dragoman to carry 
him through the Holy Land at a fixed price per day. 
The charge varies from twenty to thirty shillings (Eng- 
lish), according to the season of the year and the abun- 
dance or scarcity of travelers. For this amount, the 
dragoman will take a party of not less than four or five, 
supplying them with horses, saddles, tents, beds, and 
food, and when they stop in hotels at Jerusalem or 
Damascus he will pay the ordinary hotel bills. Be sure 
and get a good dragoman, and draw the contract at the 
consulate. There are two or three tourist agencies 
engaged in the business of taking travelers through Pales- 
tine; but the objections to them and their operations are 
similar to those who manage the steamers on the Nile. 

The best time for the journey is in the spring, during 
the months of April and May. The regular round of 
12 ' 



178 POCKET GUIDE FOR -EUROPE. 

Palestine and Syria from Jaffa to Beyrout, or Beyrout to 
Jaffa, may be made in a month, and will carry the traveler 
to Jerusalem, Bethlehem, the Dead Sea, the Jordan, Tibe- 
rias, Nazareth, Damascus, and other places famous in 
Scripture, and will enable him to visit the ruins of Baal- 
beck, between Damascus and Beyrout. In addition to the 
contract price with the dragoman, there will be the inevi- 
table backsheesh to servants, beggars, and others, so that 
not less than two hundred and fifty dollars will be required 
for the trip. 

To reach Syria without going to Egypt, we go from 
Marseilles or Naples by a French steamer (semi-monthly); 
from Trieste by an Austrian Lloyd steamer (semi-monthly), 
and from Odessa or Constantinople by a Russian steamer 
{every ten days). By taking any of these lines we land at 
Beyrout and arrange our tour so as to connect with a 
steamer at Jaffa. Many persons give the preference to 
the French steamers, buying through tickets and arrang- 
ing to be dropped at Beyrout and picked up at Jaffa four 
or six weeks later. There are several English steamers 
running irregularly to the Syrian coast from London or 
Liverpool, touching at Mediterranean ports ; but the most 
of them have small accommodations for passengers, and 
their movements depend upon the offerings of freight. 
There is an Egyptian line between Alexandria and Con- 
stantinople, touching at Jaffa and Beyrout ; but the ships 
are far from clean, and the accommodations for passen- 
gers, especially ladies, are extremely limited. 



CHAPTER XV. 

OUTLINE TOURS THROUGH EUROPE. 

The following outline tours are given for the benefit of 
those who wish to make up their routes before starting 
from home. In all cases the time given is exclusive of the 
voyage from America to England and back, for which ten 
or twelve days should be added each way. It should be 
understood, in addition, that the plan is for a rapid tourist, 
and allows only for the time absolutely needed to see the 
stock sights of each place visited. The tourist who wishes 
to be leisurely in his movements should add not less than 
fifty per cent, to the figures given with the indicated 
routes, and it would be better if he could, in each case, 
double the time allowance. 

Tour of twenty days, embracing England, Holland, 
Belgium, the Rhine, France, etc. : 

London, Antwerp, Rotterdam, The Hague, Amster- 
dam, Utrecht, Cologne, The Rhine, Wiesbaden, Brussels, 
Paris, Rouen, Dieppe, Brighton, London. 

Tour of forty days, embracing England, Belgium, the 
Rhine, Germany, Switzerland, France, etc.: 

London, Antwerp, Brussels, Liege, Aix-la-Chapelle, 
Cologne, The Rhine, Mayence, Worms, Heidelberg, 
Strasbourg, Basle, Lucerne, Brunig Pass, Interlacken, 
Berne, Lausanne, Villeneuve, Martigny, The Tete Noir, 
Chamouny, Geneva, Macon, Dijon, Paris, London. 

Tour of forty-five days, embracing the countries in the 

preceding : 

(179) 



180 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

London, Paris, Dijon, Macon, Geneva, Chamouny, The 
Tete Noir, Martigny, Brieg, Furca Pass, Andermatt, 
Fluelen, Lucerne, The Brunig Pass, Interlacken, Berne, 
Basle, Freiburg (for Black Forest), Strasbourg, Heidel- 
berg, Frankfort -on -the -Main, Wiesbaden, The Rhine, 
Cologne, Aix-la-Chapelle, Brussels, Antwerp, London. 

Tour of fifty days, embracing England, Belgium, Ger- 
many, Austria, Bavaria, Switzerland, France, etc. : 

London, Dover, Ostend, Ghent, Brussels, Aix-la- 
Chapelle, Cologne, Hanover, Berlin, Dresden, Prague, 
Vienna, Linz, Salzburg, Munich, Lindau, Constance, 
Zurich, Lucerne, The Brunig Pass, Interlacken, Berne, 
Lausanne, Geneva, Macon, Dijon, Paris, London. 

Tour of fifty days, embracing England, France, Bel- 
gium, the Rhine, Germany, and Switzerland : 

London, Paris, Brussels, Cologne, The Rhine, Wies- 
baden, Frankfort-on-the-Rhine, Darmstadt, Heidelberg, 
Strasbourg, S chaff hausen, Zurich, Zug, Lucerne, The 
Brunig Pass, Interlacken, Berne, Lausanne, Lake Leman, 
Bouveret, Martigny, The Tete Noir, Chamouny, Geneva, 
Macon, Dijon, Paris, London. 

Tour of sixty days, embracing England, Italy, Switzer- 
land, Germany, the Rhine, and Belgium, going via Mt. 
Cenis Tunnel, and returning via the Simplon Pass : 

London, Paris, Dijon, Macon, Mt. Cenis Tunnel, Turin, 
Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn, Rome, Naples, Rome, Florence, 
Bologna, Venice, Verona, Milan, Arona (Lake Maggiore 1 ), 
The Simplon Pass, Brieg, Martigny, The Tete Noir, 
Chamouny, Geneva, Lake Leman, Ouchy, Lausanne, 
Berne, Interlacken, the Bernese Oberland, Lucerne, 
Basle, Strasbourg, Heidelberg, Mayence, The Rhine, 
Cologne, Brussels, Antwerp, London. 

Tour of sixty-five days, embracing England, France, 
Italy, Germany, Belgium, etc., going via Splugen and 
returning via Simplon Pass : 



POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 181 

London, Antwerp, Brussels, Cologne, The Rhine, May- 
ence, Worms, Heidelberg, Stuttgart, Munich, Lindau, 
Lake Constance, Coire, The Splugen Pass, Colico, Como, 
Verona, Venice, Florence, Rome, Leghorn, Pisa, Genoa, 
Turin, Milan, Arona, The Simplon Pass, Brieg, Martigny, 
The Tete Noir, Chamouny, Geneva, Lausanne, Freiburg, 
Berne, Thun, Interlaken, The Brunig Pass, Lucerne, 
Basle, Paris, London. 

Tour of fifty days, embracing England, France, and 
Italy, going via south of France and returning via Mt. 
Cenis Tunnel : 

London, Dover, Calais, Paris, Dijon, Lyons, Marseilles, 
Toulon, Cannes, Nice, Monaco, Genoa, Pisa, Leghorn, 
Rome, Naples, Rome, Florence, Bologna, Venice, Verona, 
Milan, Turin, Mt. Cenis Tunnel, Macon, Paris, London. 

Tour of sixty days, embracing England, France, Italy, 
and Switzerland, going via Mt. Cenis Tunnel, and return- 
ing via St. Gothard : London, Paris, Dijon, Macon, The 
Mt. Cenis Tunnel, Turin, Genoa, Pisa, Rome, Naples, 
Rome, Florence, Venice, Verona, Milan, Como, Lugano, 
Bellinzona, St. Gothard Tunnel, Lucerne, Interlacken, 
Berne, Neuchatel, Pontarlier, Paris, London. 

Routes embracing Sweden, Norway, Denmark, and 
Russia, are given in the chapter on those countries. 

The following tour of forty-eight days, from London 
back to London again, embraces Egypt and the Holy 
Land, leaving out the " long route " from Jerusalem to 
Damascus and Beyrout. We will suppose that we are 
ready to start from London on a Thursday ; our itinerary 
will be as follows : 

First Day. — Thursday. London to Paris. 

Second Day. — Friday. Spend the day in Paris. Night 
train for Turin. 



182 POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE. 

Third Day. — Saturday. Arrive at Turin in the even- 
ing. 

Fourth Day. — Sunday. At Turin. 

Fifth Day. — Monday. Take morning train for Genoa. 
Spend the afternoon there, and leave at nine P. m. by 
steamer for Alexandria. 

Sixth Day. — Tuesday. At Leghorn. 

Eighth Day. Thursday. At Naples. 

Ninth Day. — Friday. At Messina and Catania. 

Thirteenth Day. — Tuesday. Arrive at Alexandria. 

Fourteenth and Fifteenth Days. — At Alexandria. 

Sixteenth Day. — Friday. Leave Alexandria by 
steamer for Jaffa, calling at Port Said. 

Eighteenth Day. — Sunday. Arrive at Jaffa. 
" Nineteenth Day. — Monday. Carriage or on horse- 
back to Jerusalem. 

Twentieth Day, Tuesday, to the Twenty-Eighth 
Day. — Wednesday. In Jerusalem and in excursions to 
Bethlehem, Dead Sea, Jordan, Jericho, etc. 

Twenty-Ninth Day. — Thursday. Leave Jaffa for 
Port Said and Alexandria. 

Thirty-Second Day. — Sunday. Arrive at Alexan- 
dria. 

Thirty-Third Day, Monday, till Thirty-Seventh 
Day. — Friday. At Alexandria and excursions to Cairo 
and the Pyramids. 

Forty-First Day. — Tuesday. At Catania and Mes- 
sina. 

Forty-Second Day. — Wednesday. At Naples. 

Forty-Fourth Day. — Friday. At Genoa. 

Forty-Fifth Day. — Saturday. Turin and Paris. 

Forty- Sixth Day. — Sunday. Paris. 

Forty-Eighth Day. — Arrive at London. 



POCKET GUIDE FOE, EUROPE. 183 

The " long route " through Palestine and Syria will 
require an addition to the above of not less than four 
weeks. 

For the itinerary of a journey around the world, with 
routes, time, distances, cost, etc., see Chapter XXIII of 
" How to Travel," by the author of this Guide Book. 



INDEX. 



In the following Index the reader will find the names 
of hotels immediately after the number of the page to 
which reference is made. This arrangement is consid- 
ered preferable to that of scattering the names of hotels 
through the text of the book, since it facilitates frequent 
revision of a kind of information that is liable to constant 
change. Where two or more are named, the first may be 
regarded as the best and dearest, and the last as the 
cheapest ; the author has endeavored to indicate them in 
the order of their excellence and consequent expensive- 
ness, but it will be readily understood that he cannot 
guarantee the accuracy of his information for all time. 
Men change, and so do hotels ; the house that was excel- 
lent a year ago may be wretched to-day, or it and its 
owner may have ceased to exist. New hotels may spring 
up while this book is passing through the press, and 
houses that once were cheap and good may have become 
bad and dear. 

There are many places on the routes of travel where 
the tourist is not likely to remain more than a few hours 
at farthest, and there are also many points that lie off the 
regular lines, and are unlikely to be seen by the bulk of 
travelers. For the most of these places the hotels are 
omitted, and the same rule is observed where a town or 
village has but a single establishment for the entertain- 
ment of strangers. In case a traveler wishes to remain 
over night at a place where no hotel is mentioned, he can 



186 I2STDEX. 

generally obtain an address from a fellow-traveler, or 
from station-masters, guides, drivers, and others with 
whom he comes in contact. Very often the information 
thus obtained may be prejudiced, but it is much better 
than none at all. The term " hotel " is generally under- 
stood throughout all Europe, but in the rural districts the 
traveler may occasionally fail to be comprehended when 
he pronounces the word. The equivalent of the English 
"tavern," or "inn," is " Auberge" or " Taverne" in French, 
"Gasthof" or "Gasthaus " in German, "Albergo " in Italian, 
"Fonda " in Spanish, "Gostinitza" in Russian, and "Gast- 
gifvaregardar " in Scandinavian. 

The author will feel greatly obliged to any traveler who 
will inform him relative to changes in the names and 
character of existing hotels or the establishment of new 
ones. Letters may be addressed ; 

AUTHOR OF POCKET GUIDE FOR EUROPE, 
Care of Chas. T. Dillingham, Publisher, 

New York. 



INDEX. 



Aachen (Aix-la-Chapelle), 

150. 

Aberdeen, 22, Imperial, Doug- 
las, Palace. 

Adelsberg, Caves of, 90. 

Airolo, 92. 

Aix-la-Chapelle (Aachen),150, 
Grand Monarque, Sclem- 
mer, Bellevue. 

Aix-les-Bains, 94, Venat, Eu- 
rope, Globe. 

Alexandria, 174, Europe, Ori- 
ent, Abb at. 

Algeria, Eoutes through, 172. 

Algiers,172,L'Orient,Eegence, 
Paris. 

Alicante, 140. 

Alkmaar, 158. 

Almeria, 140. 

Altorf, 92, Adler, Krone. 

Ambleside, 25, Queen's, Salu- 
tation. 

Amiens, 51. 

Amsteg, 98.- 

Amsterdam, 155, Amstel, Bi- 
ble, Adrian, Palais Boyal. 

Amsterdam, Sights of, 156. 

Ancona, 89, La Pace, Reale. 

Andermatt, 98, Bellevue, St. 
Gotthard, Oberalp. 



Antwerp, 147, St. Antoine, De 
1' Europe, Courrier, Com- 
merce. 

Aosta, 93, Mont Blanc, Cou- 
ronne. 

Appenines, The, 79. 

Aranjuez, 135. 

Ardrishaig, 21. 

Arezzo, 76, Vittoria. 

Arona, 92, Italia, Albergo 
Eeale. 

Arth, 97, Adler, Rigi. 

Astrachan, 171. 

Avignon, 129, Europe, Lux- 
embourg. 

Azof, Sea of, 171 

Baden-Baden, 108, Victoria, 
Holland. 

Baku, 171. 

Bale, 95, Trois Rois, Suisse, 
Couronne. 

Balloch, 23. 

Belgrade, 123, Paris. 

Banavie, 21, Lochiel Arms. 

Bangor, 27, George, Albert. 

Barcelona, 140, Four Nations. 

Basiasch, 123. 

Baths, Ancient in Rome, 76. 

Battle of Waterloo, 147. 

Bayonne, 131. 



188 



INDEX. 



Bebra, 115. 

Belfast, 19, Imperial, Royal, 
Prince of Wales. 

Belgium and Holland, 141. 

Belgium, Eoutes to, 141. 

Bellagio, 91, Grande Bretagne, 
Genazzini. 

Berlin, 111, Central, Kaiserhof, 
Windsor, Union. (See Bae- 
deker.) 

Berlin, Cabs and Carriages, 
111. 

Berlin, Sights of, 112. 

Berne, 103, Bernerhof, Belle- 
vue, Pfistern, Storch. 

Beyrout, 178, Orient. 

Biarritz, 131, Angleterre, 
Princes. 

Birkenhead, 26. 

Birmingham, 28, Great West- 
ern, Queen's. 

Birmingham, Business Sec- 
tion of, 39. 

Birthplace of Shakspeare, 29. 

Biskra, 173, Meidan. 

Black Forest of Gei'many, 108. 

Blarney Castle, 16. 

Bodo, 166, Nilsen's. 

Bologna, 79, Brun, Italia, Tre 
Mori. 

Bone, 173, Orient. 

Bonn, 109. 

Bordeaux, 130, France,Nantes, 
Commerce. 

Borromean Islands, 92. 

Boston, 49, Peacock, White 
Hart, Red Lion. 



Borrowdale, 25. 

Boulogne, 51. 

Bradford, 48, Victoria, George. 

Braunau, 126. 

Bremen, 115, Hillmann's, Eu- 
rope, Caspar, Bellevue. 

Bremerhaven, 115. 

Brenner Railway, 90. 

Bribes, How Administered, 13. 

Bridge, Britannia Tubular, 28. 

Bridge, Menai, 28. 

Brieg, 93, Trois Couronnes, 
Angleterre. 

Brienz, Lake of, 99. 

Brighton, 45. 

Britannia Tubular Bridge, 28, 

Broek, 158. 

Bromley, 45. 

Bruges, 142, Flandre, Com- 
merce, Universe. 

Brunn, 117. 

Brunswick, 111, Schrader's, 
Deutsches, Bethmann's. 

Brussels, 144, Bellevue, L' Eu- 
rope, Suede, Hollande. 

Brussels, Sights of, 145. 

Bucharest, 124. 

Buda, 122. 

Burgos, 132. 

Cadiz, 138, De Paris, America. 

Cairo, 174, Shepherd's, Nil, 
Grand, Orient, Auric. 

Calais, 51. 

Callandar, 23. 

Caledonian Canal, 21. 

Campanile, Venice, 82. 

Canal, Caledonian, 21. 



INDEX. 



189 



Cannes, 69. 

Cannes, 130, Fleury, Central. 

Canterbury, 49, Eose, Foun- 
tain. 

Capri, 70. 

Carlisle, 24, Station, County. 

Carlsbad, 117, Anger's, Na- 
tional, Schwann. 

Carnarvon, 28. 

Carnforth, 25. 

Cartegena, 140. 

Caserta, 71. 

Caspian Sea, The, 171. 

Cathedral Towns and Cities 
of England, 49. 

Chambery, 94, La Paix, 
France, Metropole. 

Chamouny, 102, Imperial, 
Royal, France, Balances. 

Charlottenberg, 164. 

Chatham, 42, Sun, Ship,Mitre. 

Chester, 27, Grosvenor, 
Queen's, Blossom's. 

Chiavenna, 91. 

ChiUon, Castle of, 103. 

Christiania, 164, Grand, Scan- 
dinavie, Royal, Angleterre. 

Cigars, Allowance of in Cus- 
tom Houses, 12. 

Circular Notes, 8. 

Clarens, 103. 

Clothing for Sea Voyage, 10. 

Coblence, 108. 

Coire, 91, Steinbock, Stern. 

Col De Baume, 102. 

Colico, 91. 



Cologne, 109, Hollande, Vic- 
toria, Du Dome. 

Como, 91. 

Como, Lake of, 84, 91. 

Compiegne, 67. 

Constantine, 173, L' Orient. 

Constantinople, 171, Angle- 
terre, Byzance, France. 

Contraband Articles, 12. 

Conway, 28. 

Copenhagen, 161, Angleterre, 
L'Europe, Victoria, Alex- 
andra. 

Copenhagen, Excursions near, 
162. 

Copenhagen, Sights of, 161. 

Cordova, 136, Hotel Suisse. 

Cork, 15, Imperial, Royal Vic- 
toria. 

Cornice Road, 69. 

Coventry, 30, Castle, King's 
Head. 

Cracow, 170. 

Cracow, 125, Victoria, Poller. 

Credit, Letters of, 8. 

Crimea, The, 125. 

Crimea, The, 171. 

Custom-House Regulations, 12. 

Dachsen, 96. 

Damascus, 178. 

Danube, The, 121. 

De Four, Loch, 22. 

Delft, 153. 

Derwent Water, 24. 

Dieppe, 53, Royal, De Londres, 
Du Commerce. 



190 



INDEX. 



Dijon, 129, Cloche, Jura. 

Docks of Liverpool, 26. 

Doge's Palace, Venice, 82. 

Don, The, 171. 

Domo D'Ossola, 92. 

Dorking, 45. 

Dortmund, 110. 

Dover, 50, Lord Warden, Ship, 
Castle. 

Drachenfels, 109. 

Dresden, 114, Bellevue, Vic- 
toria, France, Kettlitz. 

Dry burgh Abbey, 24. 

Dublin, 16, 19, Shelbourne, 
Morrison's, The Gresham. 

Dublin to Holyhead, 20. 

DuTwich, 43, Greyhound. 

Dumbarton, 23. 

Dundee, 22, Queen's, Royal, 
Lambs. 

Dunloe Castle, 17. 

Dunloe, Gap of, 17. 

Dunoon, Firth of, 21. 

Durham, 46, County, Three 
Tuns. 

Dusseldorf, 110. 

Duties in Continental Custom 
Houses, 12. 

Edinburgh, 24, Royal, Edin- 
burgh, London. 

Edinburgh, from Inverness, 22. 

Egypt, Routes to, 173. 

Ehrenbreitstein, 108. 

Eisenach, 115. 

Elberfeld, 110. 

Elsinore, 162. 



Enghein, 67. 

Epping Forest, 45, King's Oak. 

Escorial, 133. 

Essen, 110. 

Eton, 45. 

Europe, Outline Tours 
through, 179. 

Expense of Foreign Tour, 7. 

Eydtkuhnen, 168. 

Faulhorn, 98. 

Ferrara, 80, Europa, Tre Cor- 
one. 

Firearms, Regulations Con- 
cerning, 13. 

Florence, Excursions, 78. 

Florence, From Rome to, 76. 

Florence, 76, New York, Italia, 
Porta Rossa. 

Florence, Railway Route 
Northward, 79. 

Florence, Sights of, 77. 

Fluelen, 92, 98, Urnerhof, 
Adler. 

Fontainebleau, 67, Londres, 
France, Aigle Noir. 

Foreign Tour, Expense of, 7. 

Frankfort-on-the-Main, 115, 
Angleterre, Bruxelles, Un- 
ion. 

Freiburg, 103, Zahringer, 
Freiburg, Kramern. 

Frutigen, 100. 

Funds, How to Carry, 8. 

Furca Pass, 98. 

Galatz, 125. 

Galatz, 171. 



INDEX. 



191 



Galway, 19, Railway. 

Gap of Dunloe, 18. 

Garda, Lake of, 84. 

Gemini, The, 100. ■ 

Geneva, 102, Eussie, Beau 
Rivage, Richemont, Vic- 
toria. 

Genoa, 69, De La Ville, Croce 
Di Malta, France. 

Geschenen, 92. 

Ghent, 142, Royal, Poste, 
Wellington. 

Giant's Causeway, 19. 

Gibraltar, 139, Europa, Im- 
perial. 

Giesbach, Falls of, 99, 

Glasgow, 20, Queen's, George, 
Aitken's. ■ 

Glasgow, from Belfast, 20. 

Glasgow, to the Highlands, 21. 

Gondo, 92. 

Gothenberg, 163, Haglund's, 
Kristiana ; Neptun. 

Gorner Grat, 101. 

Goth a, 115. 

Gotha Canal, 163. 

Gratz, 90, Elephant, Goldenes 
Ross 

Gravesend, 41, Clarendon, 
Falcon, Nelson. ,- 

Great Belt, The, 160. 

Greenhithe, 41. 

Greenock, 21. 

Greenwich, 43, Trafalgar, 
Ship 

Grenada, 139, Irving, Madrid. 

Grimsel, 98. 



Grimsel Hospice, 98. 
Grindelwald, 99, Adler, Du 

Glacier, Burgener. 
Grindelwald, Glacier of, 99. 
Guide Books for the Conti- 
nent, 50. 
Hague, The, 153, Bellevue, 

L'Europe, Commerce, Pays- 

Bas. 
Hallsberg, 164. 
Hamburg, 114, Europe, Streit's, 

Alster, Moser's. 
Hammerfest, 166, Jansen's, 

Schichtlehner's. 
Hampton Court, 43, Castle, 

Mitre, Greyhound, King's 

Arms. 
Handeck, Falls of, 98. 
Hanover, 110, British, Union, 

Rheinischer, Rudolph. 
Harlem, 153, 155. 
Havre, 52, Frascati, Europe, 

Bordeaux, Normandie. 
Heidelburg, 108, Schreiuor, 

Victoria. 
Helder, 159. 
Heligoland, 115. 
Helsingborg, 162. 
Helsingor, 162. 
Herculaneum, 70. 
Holland and Belgium, 141. 
Holland, Routes to, 141. 
Hollandsch Diep, 150. 
Holyhead, 27. 
Holyhead, from Dublin, 20. 
Holy Land, Tour of, 179. 
Hospice of St. Bernard, 93. 



192 



INDEX. 



Hospice of the Grimsel, 98. 

Hospice of the Simplon, 93 

Hotels, Management of in 
Switzerland, 106. 

Hyeres, 130. 

Innsbruck, 91, Tyrol, L' Eu- 
rope, Goldener Adler. 

Interlaken, 99, Victoria, 
Jungfrau, Oberland, Berger. 

Invergarry Castle, 22. 

Inverness, 21, Caledonian, 
Eoyal, Middleton 

Inverness to Edinburgh, 22 

Iona, 21. 

Iron Gate of the Danube, 124. 

Iran, 132. 

Islay, 21. 

Isleworth, 44. 

Italian Coast, 68. 

Jaffa, 178. 

Jerez, 137. 

Jerusalem, 178. 

Jitomar, 171. 

Kahlenberg, 122. 

Kalatch, 171. 

Kanderstag, 100. 

Karlstad, 164. 

Kazan, 171, Odessa, Resanoff. 

Kazan, Defile of, 124. 

Kendal, 25. 

Kenil worth, 30, King's Arms, 
Castle. 

Keswick, 24, Keswick, Royal 
Oak. 

Kew, 43. 

Kiel, 160, Germania, Bellevue. 

Kiev, 171. 

Kil, 164. 



Killarney, 17, Royal Victoria, 

Lake, Railway. 
Killarney, From Cork to, 17. 
Killarney, Lakes of, 18. 
Killarney to Dublin, 18. 
Kingston, 44. 
Komorn, 122. 
Konigswinter, 109. 
Korsor, 160. 
Kovno, 169. 
Lake Maggiore, 92. 
Land of the Midnight Sun, 
165. 
Landskrona, 162. 
Last Supper, Da Vinci's, 85. 
Lausanne, 102, Gibbon, Fau- 

con, Nord 
Lauterbrunnen, 99, Steinbock, 

Staubbach. 
Leamington, 28. 
Lea, River, 15. 
Leeds, 48, Queen, Great 

Northern, Trevelyan. 
Leghorn, 69, Washington, 

Gran Bretagna. 
Leipsic, Battle of, 114. 
Leipsic, 114, Hauffe, Russie, 

Hamburg, Sedan. 
Letters of Credit, 8. 
Leuk, Baths of, 100. 
Leuk, Station, 101. 
Levant, Routes to, 172 
Leyden, 153, 154. 
Liege, 149, Suede, Angleterre, 

Schiller. 
Lille, 149, L'Europe, Singe 

D'Or, France. 
Limerick, 19, Roval. 



INDEX. 



193 



Lincoln, 49, Northern, Sar- 
acen's Head, Eagle. 

Linz, 126, Erzerzog Carl, 
Lamm, Lowe. 

Linz to Vienna, 121. 

Lisbon, 138. 

Little Belt, The, 160. 

Liverpool, 26, Washington, 
Angel, Adelphi, North- 
western. 

Loch Defour, 22. 

Loch Katrine, 23, Stronach- 
lachar. 

Loch Lochy, 22. 

Lochy, Loch, 22. 

Loch Lomond, 22. 

Loch Ness, 22. 

Lodore, 25. 

Lomond, Loch, 22. 

London, 32, (See foot note 
abont Hotels, etc.) 

London, Cabs and Omnibuses, 
32, 33, 34. 

London, Underground Rail- 
way, 32, 33. 

London, Parks and Pleasure 
Grounds of, 40. 

London, Environs of, 41. 

London, River Steamboats, 
32, 33. 

London, Churches of, 37. 

London, Sights of, 35, 36. 

London, from Liverpool, 26. 

London, reaching from 
Queenstown, 15. 

London to the Continent, 49, 

50. 



Londonderry, 19, Jury's. 

Lough Leane, 17o 

Lubec, 160, Stadt Hamburg, 
Brockmuller's. 

Lucerne, 98, Schweizerhof, 
National, Engel, Rossli. 

Lyons, 129, Grand Hotel De 
Lyon, Angleterre. 

Maas, The, 153. 

Madrid, 133, De Paris, De 
Madrid, Russie. 

Madrid, Sights of, 134. 

Magdeburg, 111, Koch, Muller. 

Magenta, 86. 

Malaga, 139, Londres, Victoria. 

Malines, 147. 

Mallow, 16. 

Malmo, 162, Kramer's, Svea, 
Stockholm. 

Marseilles, 130, Marseilles, 
Louvre, Noailles. 

Martigny, 102, De La Tour, 
Clerc, Mont Blanc. 

Matterhorn, The, 101. 

Mayence, 108, Hollande, An- 
gleterre. 

Meiringen, 98, Reichenbach, 
Wildenmann. 

Melrose, 24, Abbottsford, Roy- 
al George. 

Menai Bridge, 28. 

Mentone, 69. 

Mentone, 130. 

Midnight Sun, 165. 

Milan, 84, Royal, Cavour, 
Pozzo, San Marco. 

Milan, From Verona, 84. 



194 



INDEX. 



Modane, 94. 

Modena, 80, Reale, San Marco. 

Monaco, 69, De Paris. 

Money, Table of, 5. 

Mont Blanc, 102. 

Mont Cenis, 94. 

Mont Cervin, 101. 

Montmorency, 67. 

Montreux, 103. 

Monza, 91. 

Moscow, 170, Dresden,Dusaux, 
Chevrier, Billet, Billot. 

Muckross Abbey, 18. 

Muhldorf, 126. 

Muirtown, 22. 

Munich, 127, Four Seasons, 
Bellevue, Marienbad, Ste- 
phan's. 

Munich, Sights of, 127. 

Naples, 69, Nobile, Washing- 
ton, Russie, Geneve. 

Naples, Churches of, 70. 

Naples, Excursions from, 70 

Naples, From Paris to, 68. 

Ness, Loch, 22. 

Neuhausen, 96, Schweizerhof, 
Rheinfall. 

New.castle-on-Tyne, 46, Sta- 
tion, Neville, Bell's. 

Newstead Abbey, 49. 

Nice, 69, Chauvain, Cosmo- 
politan, Des Etrangers. 

Nice, 130, 

Nice to Marseilles, 130. 

Niesen, The, 100. 

Night Signals of Steamship 
Lines, 11 



Nijni Novgorod, 170, De La 
Poste, De Russie. 

Nile, Voyage on the, 174. 

North Cape, 166. 

Northfleet, 41. 

North Holland, 158. 

Norwegian Travel, 164. 

Notes, Circular, 8. 

Nottingham, 49. 

Novara, 86. 

Novgorod, the Great, 170. 

Nuremburg, 128, Bavarian,, 
Strauss, Rother Halm. 

Oban, 21, Station, King's 
Arms. 

Oberhausen, 110. 

Odessa, 171. 

Odessa, 125. 

Ofen, 122. 

Orleans, 130, St. Aignan. 

Orsova, 123. 

Ostend, 142, Continental, Fon- 
taine, Couronne. 

Outfit, 10. 

Outline Tours of Europe, 179. 

Oxford, 31, Randolph, Claren- 
do, Mitre. 

Padua, 80, Stella D'Oro. 

Palazzo Vecchio, Florence, 77. 

Pallanza, 92. 

Palestine, Routes to, 177. 

Palestine, Tour of, 179. 

Paris, 54, Hotels, Grand, Con- 
tinental, Louvre, Westmin- 
ster, Bade, Hollande, Meu- 
rice, Wagram, Bristol, (all 
high priced). Among cheap- 



INDEX. 



195 



er ones are St. James, Nor- 
mandie, L'Empire, L' Ori- 
ent, L'Amiraute, Burgundy, 
Bergere, Violet. See Brad- 
shaw's Continental Guide 
and Baedeker's Paris. 
Paris, a Walk through, 61. 
Paris, Belt Railway, 58. 
Paris, Cabs and Omnibuses, 

56, 57. 
Paris, Cemeteries, 65. 
Paris, Excursions from, 67, 
Paris, Expenses in, 54. 
Paris, Jardin D'Acclimata- 

tion, 63. 
Paris, Picture Galleries and 

Churches, 59. 
Paris, Principal Sights, 58 et 

seq. 
Paris, Restaurants of, 55. 
Paris, Shops, 64. 
Paris, Steamers on the Seine, 

58. 
Paris, Theatres and Other 

Amusements, 64, 65. 
Parma, 80, Croce Bianca, 

Posta. 
Passage, Town near Cork, 15. 
Passport for Russia, 168. 
Passports in Russia, 125. 
Pau, 131, France, Poste, Do- 

rade. 
Pavia, 87. 
Perth, 22. 
Perugia, 76. 
Peschiera, 84. 
Pesth, 122, Hungaria, Na- 



tional, Konig Von Ungarn, 
Paris. 
Peterborough, 49, Great North- 
ern, Angel. 
Philippeville, 172, L' Orient, 

Regence. 
Piazza San Marco, Venice, 82. 
Pisa, 69, Lungarno, Minerva. 
Pistoja, 79, Di Londra, Posta. 
Pitti Palace, 77. 
Pompeii, 70. - 
Port Rush, Ireland, 19. 
Poti, 171. 
Potsdam, 113, Einseidler, 

Konigsberg. 
Prague, 116, Englischer, Saxe, 

Stephan, Carlsbad. 
Prague to Vienna, 117. 
Prater at Vienna, 121. 
Pressburg, 122, Greenerbaum. 
Prohibitions at Continental 

Custom Houses, 12. 
Pskof, 169. 
Purfleet, 41. 
Purmerende, 158. 
Pyrenees, The, 131. 
Queenstown, 15, Queen's Ho- 
tel. 
Ratisbon, 128,Goldenes Kreuz, 

Weidenhof. 
Ravenna, 87, Spada D'Oro, 

San Marco. 
Reichenbach, Falls of, 98. 
Rhine, Falls of, 96. 
Rhine, Wines of, 109. 
Rhone Glacier, 98, Glacier du 
Rhone. 



196 



INDEX. 



Kichmond, 43, Star and Gar- 
ter, Eose, Roebuck. 
Ried, 126. 
Eiffel, The, 101. 
Rigi-Kulm, 97, Rigi-Kulm. 
Eigi Railway, 97. 
Eochester, 42, Crown, Bull, 

Victoria. 
Rome, 71, Costanzi, Quiri- 

nale, Minerva, Italia. 
Rome, Churches of, 73 . 
Rome, from Naples to, 71. 
Ruins in Rome, 76. 
Rome, Sights of, 71. 
Rooms, Engaging in advance, 

^106. 
Roosendaal, 150. 
Rostof, 171. 
Rothesay, 21. 
Rotterdam, 150, New Bath> 

Victoria, Guilliams, Hol- 

lande. 
Rotterdam, Description of, 

152. 
Rouen, 52, Albion, Angle- 

terre, Victoria. 
Routes, Transatlantic, 14. 
Rugby, 31, George, Royal, 

Eagle. 
Russia, Routes through, 170. 
Russia, RoiTtes to, 168. 
Rustchuk, 124. 
Rye House, 45. 
Saltaire, 48. 

Salzburg, 126, Europe, Haas. 
Samara, 171. 
San Bernardino Pass, 92. 



San Juan, 136. 

San Marino, Republic of, 88. 

Saratov, 171. 

San R'emo, 69, San Remo. 

Sceaux, 67. 

Scheideck, 98. 

Scheveningen, 154, D' Orange, 

Des Bains, Garni. 
Schiedam, 153. 
Schleswig-Holstein, 160. 
Sea-Sickness, How to prevent,, 

12. 
Sea voyage, Outfit for, 10. 
Seralin, 123. 

Semmering Railway, 90. 
Sevastopol, 125. 
Seven Mountains, 109. 
Sevenoaks, 45. 
Seville, 137, De Paris, De 

Madrid. 
Shakspeare, Birthplace of, 29. 
Sheffield, 48, Royal, Victoria., 

Angel. 
Shottery, 30. 
Shrewsbury, 28. 
Simbach, 126. 
Simplon Hospice, 93. 
Simplon Pass, 92. 
Smolensk, 170. 
Solferino, 84. 
Sorrento, 70. 
Southampton, 52, Eadley's, 

Dolphin, Castle. 
Southern Tour, 68. 
Spain, Expense of Travel in, 
132. 
Spain, Season for Travel, 132. 



INDEX. 



197 



Spltigen, 91, Bodenhaus. 

Splugen Pass, 91. 

St. Albans, 45. 

St. Bernard Hospice, 93. 

St. Bernard Pass, 93. 

St. Cloud, 63. 

St. Denis, 66. 

St. Germain, 67, Pavilion of 
Henri IV. 

St. Gotthard Pass, 92. 

St. Gotthard Tunnel, 92. 

St. John Lateran, Church of, 

74. 

St. Niklaus, 101. 

St. Peter's at Kome, 73. 

St. Petersburg, 169, Europe, 
Angleterre, Demuth, Ben- 
son's. 

Staffa, 21. 

Staubbach, Falls of, 99. 

Steamer Lines, Distinguish- 
ing Marks of, 11. 

Steamship Companies, 9. 

Steamships, Character of Dif- 
ferent Lines, 9. 

Steamships, Lines of, 9. 

Stelvio Eoad, 91. 

Stirling Castle, 23. 

Stirling, 22, Royal. 

Stockholm, 163, Grand, Ryd- 
berg, Germania, Kan an. 

Strasburg, 107, Angleterre, 
France. 

Stratford-on-Avon, 29, Red 
Horse, Shakspeare. 

Stuttgart, 128, Markhardt, 
Royal, Krauss. 



Sun at Midnight, 165. 
Switzerland, Carriages and 

Posting in, 96. 
Switzerland, Characteristics 

of Hotels in, 95. 
Switzerland, Routes to, 94. 
Switzerland, Season in, 95. 
Switzerland, Tour of, 96 
Switzerland, Tours through,, 

104, et seq. 
Syria, Routes to, 178. 
Table of Money, 5. 
Terni,76, Europa,TreColonne. 
Tete Noire, 102. 
Throndhjem, 164, Britannia,, 

Bellevue, Victoria, Nilsen's. 

Throndhjem to Hammerfest,. 

165. 

Thun, 100, Thunerhof, Falke,. 

Kreuz. 
Thusis, 91. 
Tiflis, 171. 
Tilbury Fort, 41. 
Tobacco, Allowance of in 

Custom Houses, 12. 
Toledo, 135. 
Tor Castle, 22. 
Tore Castle, 18. 
Tours through Europe, 179. 
Transatlantic Routes, 14. 
Trent, 90, Europa, De LaVille. 
Trevi, Fountain of, 76. 
Tripoli, 173. 
Trolhatta, Falls of, 163. 
Tromsoe, 166, Grand, Garni. 
Trossachs, 22. 
Tsaritsin, 171. 



198 



INDEX. 



Tunis, 173. 

Tunnel of Mont Cenis, 94. 

Tunnel of St. Gotthard, 92. 

Turin, 86, Europa, Trombetta, 
Feder, Liguria. 

Turin, from Milan, 86. 

Twickenham, 44. 

Tyven, The, 166. 

Uetliberg, 97, Furst. 

Uffizzi Palace, 77. 

Utrecht, 159, Pays Bas, Belle- 
vue, Station. 

Vadso, 166, Pihlfelt, Aas. 

Valentia, 140, Madrid, 4 Na- 
tions. 

Valladolid, 132. 

Val Sugana, 91. 

Varna, 124. 

Vatican, The, 75. 

Venice, 81, Grand, Europa, 
Danieli, Baur, Luna. 

Vercelli, 86. 

Verona, 83, Di Londra, Due 
Torri, Aquila Nera. 

Versailles,. 66, Du Reservoir, 
De France. 

Vesuvius, 70. 

Vevey, 102, Trois Couronnes, 
Vevey, Angleterre. 

Vicenza, 84, De La Ville. 

Vienna, 118, Grand, Metro- 
pole, London, Klomser. 

Vienna, Cabs and Carriages, 
118. 

Vienna, Description of, 119. 

Vienna, from Prague, 117. 



Vienna, Restaurants, 118. 
Vienna, Sights of, 120. 
Vienna to Pesth by Rail, 123. 
Vienna to Pesth by River, 122.. 
Ville D'Avray, 67. 
Villeneuve, 102, Ville, Byron.. 
Vilna, 169. 
Vincennes, 67. 
Virballof, 168. 
Virginia Water, 45. 
Vispach, 101. 
Vitznau, 98, Pfiffer, Rigi. 
Volga, The, 171. 
Voyage, Clothing for, 10. 
Waltham Abbey, 45, Crown 

Inn. 
Warsaw, 126. 
Warsaw, 170, Europe. 
Warwick, 28, Warwick ArmSj, 

Globe. 
Waterloo, Excursion to, 146. 
Weimar, 115. 
Wengern Alt, 99. 
Whitebait at Greenwich, 43, 
Wielizka, Salt Mines of, 125. 
Wimmis, 100, Lowe. 
Windermere, 25, Ferry Hotel- 
Windsor, 44, White Hart, Cas- . 

tie, Adelaide. 
Windsor Castle, 44. 
Wittenberg, 115. 
Woolwich, 42. 
Ypres, 148, Tete D'Or, Chatel- 

lenie, Fournier. 
York, 47, Station, Black 

Swan. 



INDEX. 



190 



York, Castle and Cathedral 

of, 47. 
Zaandam, 158. 
Zeeland, 151. 
Zermatt, 101, Mont Cervin, 



Mont Kose, Des Alpes. 
Zug, 97, Hirsch, Ochs, Lowe. 
Zurich, 97, Baur au Lao, 

Bellevue, Storch, Falke. 



GUION LINE." 

United States Mail Steamers 



SAILING WEEKLY 



Between Hew Yoijk and Liverpool. 

(CALLING AT QUEENSTOWN.) 



These Steamers are built of Iron, in watertight com- 
partments, and are furnished with every requisite to make 
the passage across the Atlantic both safe and agreeable, 
having bath-room, smoking-room, drawing-room, piano, 
and library; also experienced Surgeon, Stewardess, and 
Caterer on each Steamer. The staterooms are all upper 
deck, thus insuring those greatest of all luxuries at sea, 
perfect ventilation and light. 

CABIN PASSAGE, #60, #80, $100, and $150, 
according to Location, etc. RETURN TICKETS, 
$120, $140, $175, and $250. 

• INTERMEDIATE.— This is a class that affords people 
of moderate means a respectable way of traveling. Beds, 
bedding, wash-basins, etc., together with good food, sepa- 
rate dining-room from either cabin or steerage being pro- 
vided. Passage, $40 single ; $80 round trip. 

STEERAGE PASSAGE at Low Rates. 

DRAFTS payable in Ireland, England, and Scotland 
at low rates. 

Apply to 

WILLIAMS. & GUION, 

29 BROADWAY, N. Y. 



Established 1850- 

inmaTTline 

United States 1 Royal Mail Steamers. 

City of Rome, 8,415 Tons, 

Tons. Tons. 

City of Berlin, "5,491. City qv Montreal* 4,490. 
City of Richmond, 4,607. City of Brussels, 3,775. 
City of Chester, 4,566. 

NEW YORK TO LIVERPOOL, - THURSDAYS OR SATURDAYS. 
LIVERPOOL TO NEW YO RK, - TUE SDAYS OR THURSDAYS. 

RATES OF PASSAGE, $80 and $100, according to 
accommodation, all having equal saloon privileges. 
Children between two and twelve years of age, half fare. 
Servants, $50. 

ROUND TRIP TICKETS, $144 and $180. 

TICKETS TO LONDON, $7, and to PARIS #15 and 
$20 additional, according to the route selected. 

THE STEAMERS of this Line, built in watertight com- 
partments, are among the strongest, largest, and fastest 
on the Atlantic. 

THE SALOONS are luxuriously furnished, have revolv- 
ing chairs, are especially well lighted and ventilated, 
and take up the whole width of the ship. 

THE PRINCIPAL STATEROOMS are amidships, 
forward of the engines, where least noise and motion is 
felt, and all replete with every comfort, having double 
berths, electric bells, and all latest improvements. 

LADIES' CABINS and bath-rooms, Gentlemen's smok- 
ing and bath-rooms, Barbers' shops, pianos, libraries, 

■ etc., provided. 

MEALS SERVED a la carte. 



These Steamers do not carry Horses, Cattle*, Sheep, or Pigs, 

For further particulars apply to 
John G. Dale, Agent, 31 and 33 Broadway, New York. 
Geo. A. Faulk, " 105 South Fourth St., Philadelphia. 
L. II. Palmer, " 3 Old State House, Boston. 
F. C. Brown, " 32 South Clark Street, Chicago. 



GENERAL 

rps/TLApc Company 

BETWEEN ftEW ¥@RK $ P^Y^E. 

COIPAIY'S PIER (NEW) 42 NORTH RIVER, FOOT OF I0RT0I STREET. 



ft®* Travelers by this Line avoid both 
transit by English railway and the dis- 
comforts of crossing *the Channel in a 
small boat. 



Prices of Passage (including wine) to Havre : 

First Cabin $100 and $80 

Second Cabin 60 

Steerage (including wine, bedding, and utensils), 26 

Checks, payable at sight, in amounts to suit, on the 
Banque Transatlantic of Paris. 

Return, Tickets at Reduced Rates. 

FOR MARSEILLES, TOUCHING AT GIBRALTAR AND BARCELONA. 

Rates of Passage : 

For Gibraltar— First Cabin $75 and $90 

For Barcelona and Marseilles — First Cabin. 80 and 100 

Steerage 32 

Through bills of lading issued to Mediterranean 
ports, including Barcelona, Algeria, Tunis, Genoa, 
Leghorn, Naples, Messina; also for Trieste and Con- 
stantinople. 

!N\ B. — No freight taken for Gibraltar. 

LOUIS IDE BEBIAN, Agent, 6 Bowling Green. 




^HVviteb- States 9Ttail Stea-vnet^ 



SAIL WEEKLY TO AND FROM 

arte 

AND 



New York arscl CSatgow* 

London. 



THE ANCHOR LINE STEAMERS are first-class in 
every respect, built especially for Passenger Traffic ; are 
safe, comfortable, reliable, splendidly equipped, and in 
their appointments and accommodations are not excelled 
by any other Line. 

RATES OF PASSAGE FROM NEW YORK 

To Glasgow, Liverpool, Londonderry, or Belfast, 

Aft Outside Berth, $80 ( ) Excursion $140 

Aft Inside Berth, $75 1 i ;* t^A. > Tickets, available 130 
Forward Berth, #60 ( ^ Ai3iiN - ) f or One Year, no 

TO LONDON DIRECT.— First Cabin, $55 and ^65 ; 
Excursion, $100 and $120, according to location of State- 
room. 

For Books of Information for Passengers, Rates of 
Passage, Cabin Plans, etc., apply to 

COMPANY'S OFFICES. 
7 Bowling Green, New York. 

96 Washington Street, Chicago. 

7 and 9 State Street, Boston, 



HENDERSON BROTHERS, Agents, 




FLEET. 
Spain, Egypt, England, Erin, Helvetia, The Queen, 
Italy, France, Holland, Denmark, Canada, Greece. 

The Steamships of this line are amongst the largest in 
the Atlantic service leaving the Port of New York. They 
have been constructed by the most celebrated builders in 
Great Britain, and are of great strength and power, and of 
beautiful model, enabling them to make regular passage in 
all kinds of weather. They are built entirely of Iron and 
Steel, except the merely decorative parts, and divided into 
watertight and fireproof compartments, with steam pump- 
ing, hoisting, and steering gear, and provided with fire- 
extinguishers, improved sounding apparatus, and generally 
found throughout in everything calculated to add to their 
Safety, and to the comfort and convenience of Passengers 
heretofore unattained at sea. 

One of the Steamers will sail from New York every 
Saturday for Queenstown and Liverpool, and weekly from 
London direct, from Pier 39, North River. 

Rates of Passage, in currency : — To Queenstown and 
Liverpool, $50 to $70. To London direct {Victoria Docks), 
$50 to $60; Excursion Tickets, $100 currency. Steerage 
passage, outward, $26 currency. Prepaid Tickets, $28, 
being"$2 lower than most other lines. 

For passage, Bank Drafts, Sovereigns, etc., apply to 
F. W. T- HURST, Manager, Company's Offices, v 
Nos. 69, 71, and 73 Broadway, New York. 



THE MOE/E-IS 

EDROPSAN AND AMERICAN EXPRESS, 

50 BEOADWAY, 2SEW YORK. 

(Established 1858.) 

Most popular and reliable medium for forwarding 
GOODS, LUGGAGE, and FREIGHT MATTER of 
every description, to any place on the globe. 

Parties traveling abroad and desiring to send borne 
purchases or effects for storage or clearing — by this Ex- 
press, will please arrange with the undermentioned 
correspondents for transportation to New York, and 
apply to them for pamphlets containing particulars. 

LONDON.— Geo. W. Wheatley & Co., Globe Foreign 
Express, principle office, 10 Queen St., Cheapside. West 
End office, 23 Regent St.; The American Exchange in 
Europe (Limited), H. F. Gillig, Gen'l Manager, 449 Strand; 
In every other place of England, Ireland, and Scotland, the 

Agents of the Globe Parcels Express. 

PARIS.— Michell & Kimbel, 31 Place du Marche St. 

Honore; American Exchange in Paris, 35 Boulevard 

des Capucines. 

NICE. — American Exchange in Europe, i Jardin Public. 

PAU. — Veuve Forestier Aine, 5 Passage Saviez. 

BERLIN.— Phal and & Dietrich. 

DRESDEN.— J. H. Federer, 11 Schreibergasse. 

FLORENCE.— Robertson, Lemon & Co. 

GENOA, ITALY.— Risso & Peri, 7 Vico Cartaj. 

GENEVA, SWITZ'D.— American Exchange in Europe 

LEGHORN.— Robertson, Lemon & Co., 1 Scali del 
Pesce. 

MUNICH — Fischer & Rechsteiner, 13 Baverstrasse. 

NAPLES.— Cerulli & Co., 29 Vittoria. 

ROME. — Montague, Handley & Co., 81 Piazza di 
Spagna. 

ROTTERDAM.— Voigt & Co., 16 Boompjes. 

STUTTGARD.— Frank & Fischer. 

VENICE. — Fischer & Rechsteiner, 4039 Chiesa. 

VIENNA.— Schubert & Voeth, 5 Kleeblattgasse. 



The Royal Mail Line 

TO THE NETHERLANDS. 

(HITHERTO THE ROTTERDAM LIME/ 
WEEKLY TO AND FROM 

ROTTERDAM, AMSTERDAM, NEW YORK. 

Is a favorite route on account of the advantages 
offered by the ports of Rotterdam and Amsterdam to 
travelers for and from Holland, Belgium, the Rhine, 
Switzerland, and South Germany. 

The Steamers MAA8, SCHOLTEN, CALAND, 
ROTTERDAM, SCHIEDAM, AMSTERDAM, 
EDAM, and Z A AND AM, are all well known favorites, 
and their Captains and officers deservedly popular. 

EXCURSION TICKETS $135. 

The Florio Italian Line. 

Steamers WASHINGTON, YINCENZO FLORIO, 
ARCHIMEDE, EGADI, BENGALA. 

From New York to Gibraltar, Marseilles, Genoa, 
Naples, Palermo: 

Offers great comfort and pleasure to passengers by 
its entirely Southern course to the Mediterranean, gen- 
erally striking fine weather and avoiding ice and fog. 
Saloon accommodation is superb. Connection with 
Turkey, Egypt, and East Indies. This Line, though 
only a very short time in existence, has already enjoyed 
a large patronage by the best class of American Tour- 
ists and invalids, to whom it affords an agreeable change 
from the accustomed northern trip, and if they choose 
to return by it, a delightful excursion to the Mediter* 
ranean and back at a moderate expense. 

L, W. MORRIS, 50 Broadway, New York, 

General Passenger Agent Royal Mail Line, 
General Passenger Agent Florio Italian Line, 

EXCURSION TICKETS $198. SEND FOE CIRCULARS, 



THE PERMANENT CURE OF CATARRH. 

ReY. T. P. cms' Treatment tie Only Effectual Way. 

CXXXX*X3B' CAT^EtFtlX SPECIFIC 

Is no new untried cure, but a Positive and Certain Remedy. 

WE, ABOVE ALL THINGS, DESIRE TO ESTABLISH CONFIDENCE IN OUR 

TREATMENT, SO THAT EVERY SUFFERKR FROM CATARRH AND 

BRONCHITIS MAY FEEL CERTAIN OF SUCCESS IN ITS USE. 

193 E. Fayette St., Baltimore, Md., Dec. 20, 1879. 

Rev. T. P. Childs. — I have the pleasure of informing 
you that after a faithful use of your remedy for eight weeks 
ending March 28, 1879, I am completely rid of a stubborn 
case of catarrh of three years' standing — breathing tubes 
clear as a whistle, appetite good, and digestion good. 

Yours, Thomas B. Hand. 

Rev. T. P. Childs : Dear Sir — I think you have the true 
theory and practice for cure of nasal catarrh, and also for 
the treatment of respiratory organs. My throat is now so 
well restored that I can lecture daily without any difficulty, 
and find no difficulty whatever in preaching. You are at 
full liberty to use my name for the benefit of others. 

t Yours very truly, E. B. Fairchild, D.D., LL.D., 
Chancellor of the University of Nebraska, Lincoln, Neb. 

WHAT THE EDITORS SAY. 
" While not supposing that all cases of catarrh will be 
cured by the prescription advertised, the publishers of the 
Illustrated Christian Weekly, after diligent inqiiiry, 
have reason to believe that it has in many cases proved 
effectual." — Illustrated Christian Weekly, New York. 

"The publishers of the Congregationalist, with multitudes 
of other people, are somewhat suspicious of patent medi- 
cines as a rule, and when we received the advertisement of 
Mr. Childs we at first declined its insertion; but, on mak- 
ing inquiry, we received such satisfactory replies, and one 
especially from a well-known Congregational pastor not far 
from Rev. Mr. Childs, the proprietor of the medicine, that 
we withdrew our objections." — Congregationalist, Boston. 

CHILDS' CATARRH SPECIFIC will effectually and permanently 

cure any case of catarrh, no matter how desperate. It can only 

be obtained at Troy, Ohio. The treatment is local as well as 

constitutional, and cannot be obtained at the drug stores. 

We especially desire to treat those who have tried other 

remedies without success. 

Child's Treatment of Catarrh, and for diseases of the Bronchial 

Tubes, can be taken at home, with perfect ease and safety, by 

the patient. No expense need be entailed beyond the cost 

of the medicine. 

Rev. T. P. CHILDS, Troy, Ohio. 



9Tt. G^o/w^ 

53, 55X57 2a*fc Sface, 

Slew ^o^. 



em cm/K i&> ofe)z>cwicti<e>&. 



a SpeciaXbu. 



Spvci/m&n& o| woib wvOt ow application 

Ct4vb 



OREGON 

Railway and Navigation Co., 

OWNING AND OPERATING THE 

WALLA WALLA& COLUMBIA tjIVER R. R. 
OCEAN DIVISION. 

The only direct Mail Line from 

San Franeiseo . to Portland, Oregon. 

Carrying Wells, Fargo & Co's Express. 

"GEORGE W. ELDER." "OREGON." "COLUMBIA.** 

Regular Steamships from Portland to San Francisco 
and return, every Five Days until further notice. 

Connections made at Portland, Oregon, for all points 
in Oregon, Washington and Idaho Territories, British 
Columbia, and Alaska. 

K. Van Oterendorf, Superintendent. 

Columbia & Willamette Division. 

Connecting with Northern Pacific R. R. at Kalama and 
Ainsworth; and with Walla Walla and Columbia River 
R. R. at Wallula. 

Geo. J. Ainsworth, Superintendent. 



Walla Walla & Columbia River Railroad, 

Connects at Wallula (on Columbia River) with Steam- 
boats of O. R. & N. Co. This Line, being rapidly con- 
structed, is now open to Weston, Oregon. 

CONSIGN ALL FREIGHT "VIA OREGON RAILWAY & NAVIGATION CO" 

H.,VILLARD, T. F. OAKES, 

President. Vice-Pres't and Gen'l Manager. 

A. L. STOKES, General Eastern Passenger Agent, 
52 Clark Street, Chicago. 



FAIRBANKS ' SCALES. 

The Worlds' Standard. 

HIGHEST AWARDS, WORLD'S FAIRS. 
London, 1851. Philadelphia, 1876. 

New York, 1853. Sydney, Australia, 1877. 

Paris, 1867. Paris, 1878. 

Vienna, 1873. Sydney, Australia, 1880. 

Santiago, Chili, 1875. Melbourne, " 188 1. 

At the World's Fair in Paris, in 1878, Fairbanks & Co. received 
seven medals, more than were awarded any other American exhibitors ; 
at the Sydney, Australia, World's Fair, in 1882, in competition with 
manufacturers from the United States, Great Britain, and France, they 
received a special award above all others; and at Melbourne, Australia, 
World's Fair, in 1881, also in competition with American, English, and 
French manufacturers, Fairbanks' scales received the four highest awards. 

The Cheapest Scale Manufactured! 

QUALITY CONSIDERED. 
Correspondence solicited. Price list furnished upon application. 

OVER ONE MILLION OF THESE SCALES IN USE. 

"SU FAIRBANKS & CO., New Yoril 



FAIRBANKS & CO., Baltimore, Md. 

FAIRBANKS & CO., New Orleans. 

FAIRBANKS & CO., Buffalo, N. Y. 

FAIRBANKS & CO., Albany, N. Y. 

FAIRBANKS & CO., Montreal. 
FAIRBANKS & CO., London, Eng. 

FAIRBANKS, BROWN & CO., Boston, Mass. 
FAIRBANKS & CO., Philadelphia, Pa. 

FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., Chicago. 

FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., Cincinnati, O. 
FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., Cleveland, O. 
FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., Pittsburg, Pa, 
FAIRBANKS, MORSE & CO., Louisville, Kv. 
FAIRBANKS & CO., St. Louis. 

FAIRBANKS & HUTCHINSON, San Francisco, 

Agent for Fairbanks' Scales ) T DT (\nU ( MOSCOW and 
in the Russian Empire, } J, DLUuIV, \ ST. PETERSBURG 



BROWN BROTHERS k C 



L/ 



Wall St., 



59 



New York. 



Buy and Sell Bills of Exchaiij 

ON 

LONDON, LIVERPOOL, BELFAST, EDINBURGH, 
PARIS, ANTWERP, BERLIN, BREMEN, 
HAMBURG, AMSTERDAM! ZURICH, COPENHAGEN, 
STOCKHOLM, MALMO, AND CHRISTIANA. 

ISSUE 

Commercial/I/Travelers' Credits 

In Sterling, 

Available in all parts of the "World; 

In Dollars, 

For use in the United States and Adjacent Countries, and 

In Francs, 

For use in Martinique and Guadaloupe. 

Make Telegraphic Transfers of Money 

BETWEEN THIS COUNTRY AND EUROPE. 

Make Collections of Drafts drawn abroad on all points in the United 
States and Canada, and of Drafts drawn in the United States on For- 
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£jrown, Shipley & Co., 



AND 



OQ. ^ 

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No. 59 Wall Street, 

BOSTON, PHILADELPHIA, BALTIMORE. 
TO TRAVELERS: 

** T^AVELE^S* CFpiTS** 

Issued either Against Cash Deposited or Satisfactory 
Guarantee of Repayment: 

IN 

Pounds Sterling, 
For Use in Any Part of the World; 

OR IN 

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For Use in the United States and Adjacent Countries. 



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May be Addressed to the above Houses Direct, or 
through any flrst-class bank or banker. 

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59 




WALL 


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Buy and Sell Bills of Exchange, Issue Commercial 

and Travelers' Credits, Available in All Parts 

of the World, and 

Make Telegraph Transfers of Money Between this 

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A NECESSITY FOR EVERY TRAVELER. 



pa 



P3 



How 



OB 



C5 
ZX2 



TO 



Travel, 






m 



BY THOMAS W. KNOX, 



AUTHOR OF 



'OVERLAND THROUGH ASIA," "BACKSHEESH," " 
BOY TRAVELERS," "JOHN," ETC. 



CO 



THE 



"How to Travel" contains the fruits of twenty-five 
years of travel in every quarter of the globe by one of the 
most popular and widely known American authors and 
travelers. It answers in advance, in a plain and intelligent 
manner, the thousand questions constantly recurring in the 
experience of every traveler, and is designed to be of prac- 
tical service in the every-day details of travel, wherever it 
may be used. It is in the interest of no route, line, or com- 
pany, and designed solely to serve and aid the great and 
constantly increasing body of travelers at large, 

"How to Travel" contains over 300 pages, neatly 
bound in flexible cloth, in convenient size for the pocket and 
satchel, and is "sold everywhere." Price, post-paid, $1.00. 

CHAS.. T. DILLINGHAM, PUBLISHER, 

678 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



HOW TO TRAVEL. 



The following extracts have been taken from the many 
notices of the press concerning this book : 

From the New York Tribune. 
" Colonel Knox has placed his great experience as a 
traveler in many climes at the disposal of the public, and 
has done it so cleverly that to have his little book in one's 
company is almost like having him along to caution, direct, 
turn difficulties into interesting experiences, and sweeten 
disappointments and rainy days with humor." 

From the Springfield Republican. 

" The best manual for intending travelers ; we know of 
no book that compares with it in the character and amount 
of information and advice given in the briefest possible 
space and most readable manner." 

From the Boston Journal. 
" Lively in style and useful hi material, the book makes 
a very desirable pocket or satchel volume for tourists." 

From the Boston Herald* 

" The book is so replete with useful and reliable infor- 
mation as to make it deserving a place in the pocket or 
satchel of every person who has occasion to journey in any 
direction, by any sort of conveyance." 

From the New York Herald. 
" The author gives much useful and even valuable infor- 
mation about the very things travelers can find neither in 
a railroad guide nor in a tourist's companion. His chap- 
ter on gratuities alone is worth the price of his little book." 

From the New York Graphic. 
" The best thing that has yet appeared on the art of trav- 
eling, and no traveler should be found abroad without it in 
his pocket." 

From the New York Times. 
"Much ground is covered in little space. The writer 
must have learned much by experience." 

From the Providence Press. 
" The author is the one man of all others who is compe- 
tent to give advice upon this subject." 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





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